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The "Cubbie" --My 682

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jstertz

Well-known member
Joined
Feb 27, 2009
Messages
808
displayname
joshua donald stertz
Well,
I finally got to purchase a tractor that I've wanted since I was a kid, an IH red Cub Cadet. My dad worked as a service mechanic for a local IH farm dealership for about 5 years when I was a kid. I remember looking at those red tractors and thinking how cool they looked. I had already fallen in love with the 66 series of tractors only to be awestruck by the then new 86 series line. Who would have known that all these years later I would purchase and begin restoring one of the little siblings?!? No wonder I love the look of the red 82 series with all their design cues from the big brothers!


I purchased my 682 (SN 2050593U674244) from the second owner. It came with a 44C deck, a 38" tiller, and a H42 snow thrower. It had been used primarily for snow removal by the second owner. Unfortunately, it has the Series I motor in it. I'm planning to pull that and repower it with something more modern with a fully pressurized "filtered" oil system. Any suggestions about motor choice would be appreciated. I'm going to paint up the outside of the KT-17 and use it as a decoration in my shop along with my other IH memorabilia. The engine runs ok right now but it does need some carb work. The sheet metal is in good shape but the paint is terrible. I'm planning to clean it to bare metal and repaint and reletter it.

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I noticed cutting lawn with it that it wasn't charging at all. By the time I was finished, so was my battery. I decided to take it apart and have a look see. Wow the crud was built up on everything! It needs some cleaning and refurbishing!

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Right now I am studying over the wiring to look for possible problems. I'm going to run some tests to make sure that the stator and regulator are working as they should. If those are positive then I'll work my way out from there. While I have it torn apart, I will certainly redo the sheet metal. Here my third child Judge, is taking in the action.

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I certainly will appreciate your insite and thoughts as I embark on the completion of this lifelong dream!
 
Hit ENTER before and after each pic please ...
You have 30 minutes to edit it from post time. Click the first icon to the right in your name line.

Fer gawds sake clean that hydro pump first !
 
I've been really busy this last month but I've finally taken some time to get back in the shop and get to work on the Cubbie! Currently, I'm still in the process of cleaning, detailing,and painting the frame and wheels. Once I have the frame and drivetrain in the condition that it needs to be then I'll get back to the operational part of the resto.
Here my daughter helps me by sanding the wheels.

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Once this detailing is done, then it is time to sort out the wiring.

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It is good to have the 30 plus years of gunk cleaned out of the nooks and crannies!

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I'm looking for input on how to pack the front wheel bearings before reinstalling and also packing the rear PTO drive for the tiller.
 
Joshua S. SWEET!!!
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Very cool pictures of the tractor and your helpers. From time to time I'll use a cheapo degreaser by going to the Dollar General store and buying some cans of their brand of Oven Cleaner. Just spray it on (OUTSIDE and WELL Ventilated area). Let sit a few minutes and rinse with the garden hose. With the front wheel bearings I use a good quality automitive wheel bearing grease and do as one would when packing a big tractor or vehicle wheel bearings. You will love driving that 682. As for an engine replacement. I'd go with the Series II if you want to keep it semi-original. That keeps everything inline with the wiring and other things. If you change the oil on a regular basis and use again - good quality oil - then you shouldn't have the need for the oil filter.

Just my thoughts.
 
Marlin,
Thanks for the input on the degreaser and packing the front bearings. I'm truly fortunate to have my little helpers involved in this project!

I have the front axle assembly and frame finally painted. I'm happy with the way that it turned out considering I didn't completely disassemble it.

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I am going to do a solid refurbish on this machine but since I plan to use it regularly, I'm not planning to detail every little item to showroom perfection. My biggest concern, next to the functional aspect, is to get the sheetmetal as close to perfect as possible (that way I can cry when I get my first scratch on it
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) That is the part of the machine that most people are looking at anyway when they check out the machine!

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Now that I have the front end to my liking, I'm going to turn my attention to the rear section of frame and the rear axle. It looks really funny to have the Case wheels on the tractor right now. I have the Cub wheels painted and I didn't want to get trash on them. So, I borrowed an old set of wheels and tires from my cousins' Case collection until mine is ready to put my finished wheels back on!

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Once I finish the rear end, then I'll repaint the gear box for the tiller and I'm ready to get back to sorting out the electrical! That's where I started in the first place!
 
Joshua, looking good. Yes that first scratch in the fresh paint hurts.
 
Nice job!! I can't wait until you have another update for us. Nothing better than having an '82 series in your garage. I have to refurbish my 782 I bought a few months ago sometime when I can get it out of hiding.
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JDS,
I love the picture of your little helpers. I had two just like them. Now they are all grown up and I will be having a new little helper soon. Cherish these days, it keeps you young!
 
Nice <font color="ff0000">Tractor</font><font color="000000"> Josh! Nice work you're doing too and will be looking forward to the outcome.</font>
 
First--Thanks guys for all the positive comments. I'm sure happy with how this thing is coming together. It should be a really nice looking machine when it is finished but I'm most excited about putting it to work. These are tough little dudes and I might even grow my garden a little bigger once I have this thing to till it, cultivate it, plow it, etc! However, more important than any hobby is those loved ones in our lives and I've been so thankful that the kids have wanted to be involved with Daddy on the Cubbie project. They will be teens all too soon!
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I've been busy running the kids here and there, working, and building my dad a mini barn, but I did manage to get a few hours to work on the Cubbie rear end. I finished degreasing it and then spent some serious time sanding...

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Once I had it prepped to my satisfaction, it was time for primer.

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After ample drying time, I was ready for the paint. I've been painting all of this with rattle cans. It is a Valspar product from our local Fleet Farm retailer. I've been happy with the results on these smaller areas. I'm planning to have my cousin paint the sheet metal with his auto paint gun though.

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Yes, the assist spring is supposed to be white but I didn't care for how that bracket stood out and I wanted it to blend in a little more. The PO must have really had it cranked up all the way that it bent that left frame rail in some!

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I've been letting it cure for a few days, alright lets be honest
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, I haven't had time to get back on it. I need to finish detailing the PTO gear box and get that painted. My dad has a couple of sleeve implements for his WH 875 that he hasn't used in probably 15 years (plow, cultivator, etc). I'm planning to fab my own 3 point adapter to use those with the Cubbie. I'll need to paint that too.

I've heard that it is much easier to change the wheels with studs and nuts rather than the bolts. Any suggestions??? If you have studs where did you get 'em, etc? I was planning to just go to our local Fastenal and have them get me a grade five 1 1/4" long 7/16-20 bolt and a wheel tapered nut. If you have another suggestion, I would be open to it. I'm planning to get an extra set of Ag tires and wheels for this thing sometime in the future and I want to make swapping as easy as possible. Next, sort out the wiring
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...
 
It has been a little while since I've updated my refurbish. I've worked on it some over the last month. I finished detailing and painting the frame, put wheel studs on the rear axles, reinstalled the wheels front and rear and prepared to take a look at the wiring.

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I was content with the way it was coming together but I knew how poorly the old KT-17 was running when I last drove it. I really didn't want to stick any cash into an engine that had so much "history" surrounding it. I wanted to put a Briggs 18hp Vanguard in it but didn't have the extra $1800 lying around. So, I put out some wanted ads for a Magnum series motor. I came across a Mag 20 for sale on CL about 65 miles from where I live. You can read that story in the KT-17 vs Mag 20 thread on the CCC/MTD machines page.

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Once I had proven that this motor was indeed out of a 2072 Cub so I could put a working PTO on it albeit a different one than I have on my current KT-17 because the crank diameter is larger on the Magnum series motor. Needless to say I was excited to get it in my tractor but I didn't have any time because of work. I had determined that Labor Day weekend I was going to get that thing in.

Saturday morning we began to disassemble the old setup.

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We removed the old KT-17 after disconnecting the usual stuff (wiring, choke, throttle, etc.) The heart transplant had finally begun!
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. It was awesome to lift out the old motor and prepare to set the new motor in. I snapped this pic of the two motors together before installing the new one. they are very similar, yet different in several key ways.

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Soon we had it mounted between the rails and were getting closer to being able to do a test start. Here my friend Eric is installing the frame to engine plate mount bolts.

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I ran out of time on Saturday to start it and so now we find ourselves yesterday and this is where things take an ugly turn... All the old sayings apply here (haste makes waste, getting the cart ahead of the horse, and Donald T's classic=two steps forward and one step back!) I had everything ready to start except that I hadn't mounted the remote oil filter yet because I wasn't sure exactly where to put it. I just had it setting on the frame rail
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. I had thought several times that I needed to put that thing somewhere safe but I didn't. The engine started and was running really good for about 30 sec when I started to notice fluid spraying everywhere. I immediately shut it down and looked for the problem. OIL WAS EVERYWHERE! The filter had fallen off the frame rail and the bottom hit the driveshaft and it ground a hole in it. Thus oil was slung everywhere by way of the crank fan! I had a ring of oil around my shop, on me, but worst of all on the new Cubbie everywhere! So, the engine is back out, the shields are off and everything is getting degreased. I'm hoping that it hasn't caused any electrical problems. I wish I would have gotten a pic with the oil on everything but I didn't want to touch a camera...

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I needed to change the filter anyway but this wasn't the way that I had planned it. After getting this thing cleaned back up I will reinstall it, MOUNT THE REMOTE FILTER, and finish the wiring hookup. I'm getting closer though.
 
Joshau S. In spite of the Oops moment with the oil filter your tractor is coming along very nice. Want to paint Fancy's 782 after you're finished?
 
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Josh: Spectacular! What a story! Now I know why I haven't heard back from you about the wiring issues. Let me know how its going when you have time. Keep at it, you'll get everything worked out, I'm sure.
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Thanks guys for the positive feedback! You ever got an itch in a place on your back that you couldn't quite get at to scratch it? That is the way I feel about this project right now!!! I'm too busy to devote the time to it that I want to but at least I'm not on a hard and fast time table like Jeremiah was on his 782. He needed it for lawn duties. So far the Cub-Kub has been working great but I still can't wait to get this thing into service. It should really pack a punch with that M20 engine. I want to get a spare set of AG's for it and a set of three ribs for the front to complete the Farm Tractor look one of these days. That will fall into the finishing touches category though.

Marlin--I'd love to paint it if I had the skill to! I've convinced my cousin to paint mine. I need to get it stripped soon.

Update: the engine, tractor, shop, and I are all degreased!!! I have the engine put back together and in the tractor. Maybe next weekend I can get to finishing the wiring and strip the paint from the sheetmetal...
 
Joshua - That's not an oil mess THIS is an oil mess ! Look about half page.

Saturday, May 05, 2007 - 01:04 pm:

Friday, May 04, 2007 - 03:12 pm:
 
I was gone for a couple of weeks but while away I had time to think through the whole wiring situation. Since I was changing from the coil/ points system on the KT-17 to the Magneto style M20, I knew that I was going to have to make some changes to the wiring of the tractor. My wiring harness was completely original and amazingly not butchered! So, I decided to rewire it in a fashion where I could keep the original harness intact and undisturbed (if some kook should someday want to put a KT motor back in it). Thanks goes out to Jeremiah for his electrical expertise and advice that got me on the right track. I spent about four hours on Saturday running my new circuits and installing my new 2072 key switch, hour meter, oil sentry warning light, and ammeter. If you request it, I'll post a diagram of how I ran the wiring.

After I had the wiring run, I reinstalled the fuel tank and hose, cables, and MOST IMPORTANTLY the remote oil filter! I did a once over this time before turning the key...CLICK (no, not even a click, NOTHING!)
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I was pretty discouraged at first but then I got down to work to try and find the problem. I first verified that I had power to the key switch, which I did. Then I verified power to each of the connectors in the light circuit when the key was in the light on position. Next I checked the power going into the "B" terminal of the PTO switch, good. However, nothing was coming out to the brake switch. I flicked the toggle and realized that this switch had reached its end! so I installed a temporary jumper wire and was excited so I turned the key...still nothing!!!
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I don't know what made me think of it but I decided to check the ground of my solenoid. I had juice to the solenoid from the battery and to the S post from the orange wire when the key was turned but it still wasn't completing the start circuit. With new paint on the battery box, I wasn't sure if it was getting a good enough ground and so I added a couple of star washers under the solenoid mounting bolts and under the negative battery cable where it contacts the frame. I turned the key again, this time it jumps to life!

It seemed to be running a little quirky but it was still running! I just had to drive it! I threw a board across the battery box and with my feet on the floorboard mounting bars, I was off to terrorize the neighborhood. It seemed to be running good except the governor wasn't working quite right. With the engine at 3/4 throttle and standing still, if you threw the speed control lever all the way up it would almost stall the engine and the governor would surge a couple of times as it would get up to speed (more on that later). So I drove it around the yard like a madman for about 20 minutes, my neighbors must have thought I was nuts!
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Anyway, I pulled it into the shop to let it idle down when I noticed that it was leaking oil pretty badly AGAIN! This time it was coming from the remote oil filter cover area! I shut it down and after it cooled down I took things apart. I then discovered that someone had removed the gasket that goes between that plate and the engine block and then just sealed it on with silicone. A small piece of that gave way and now I had a little stream of oil seeping down the front corner of the block! I would much rather find this now before I have all the shielding on the engine and the hood/ grille assembly installed. So, I have a new gasket coming, then it is time to start on the sheet metal. I plan to run the tractor some more when I get it sealed up to look for any other potential problems. I'll have some pics in my next post. Not much has changed visually from last time...
 
Good detective work on the starting issue, Josh. I couldn't have done better myself!

I'm concerned about the motor though. Has the oil been leaking from the pressurized side? If so, the bearings could have been starved for oil. Be sure the engine has the proper oil pressure and isn't knocking. Let it warm up real good and listen closely.

Just a thought.
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Also, please post the diagram of how the tractor finally was wired and working. Remember, as Don Tanner is fond of pointing out:

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Well Guys, you won't believe it, but I'm back at it! Last year when I was finally to the point of making some serious progress on the Cubbie, my construction business got real busy. Lots of people wanted their projects finished before the weather turned lousy. Anyway, that combined with an unheated shop made me put the Cubbie refurbish on hold till now. I got the Cubbie out and decided to run it a little before moving forward with my next step. I am satisfied for now that I have all the wiring issues worked out. I have my hen scratchings on an 8.5 x 11 pc of paper if anyone wants them for future reference. I was able to keep my unmolested original wiring harness unmodified if someone would ever choose to go back to a points/coil engine again. I also could post the diagram I sketched out here if you like or maybe someone better than me with a computer would like to convert them into something readable
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!

I drove it for about 45 minutes total over a three day period and I was happy with how it was performing overall. It seemed like it has a fair amount of vibration but then again I am sitting on a board on the battery (yea, I know, safety first!)
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However, in reading my engine service manual, I noticed that they recommended taking off the heads every 500 hours and removing the carbon build up. I figured that since I nearly have this thing installed with wingnuts anyway, it couldn't hurt to take care of this procedure. Also, I noticed that the starter was occasionally sticky so I can clean that and lube as well. So back out with the engine!

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I did run a compression test before removing the engine and the numbers weren't as good as I'd hoped, 95 psi on one side and 90 psi on the other.

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So I pulled it back out but before I went to work stripping off the shrouds and the heads I painted a steering column that I'd obtained since mine was really worn.

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I'm hoping that this will help my steering situation quite a bit. This box has very minimal wear and combined with my relatively tight front end, I'm hoping that i have a winning combination.

Once I removed the first head, I was pleased with how well the cylinder looked but there was quite a bit of carbon there.

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I spent about an hour with a plastic scraper cleaning the first head and the valve area. When I was finished it sure looked clean compared with the dirty one!

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So, next I need to order some new head gaskets and while I'm waiting I'm going to install my "new" steering column. I'm also going to strip my paint from the sheetmetal soon since my cousin said he should be able to paint it in the near future. Now I just need to locate an M20 compatible PTO clutch!
 
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