Charles-
First thing I'd do is keep the camera handy. It can save a lot of time and worries by documenting everything you do and in stages. I use "used" plastic zip-loc type bags for every set of bolts/parts with a label enclosed. It's best to clean things as you go too. It gets aggravating to find dirty bolts or whatever when you're reassembling.
You might go ahead and plan on splitting the tractor so you can address the trunion, pump gasket, cam brackets, and linkages. Chances are you'll find worn areas on the trunion slot. To fix this welding will be involved. There's a FAQ above on this subject (as for many). If there was any sign of oil on the rear axles new seals might be needed so when you drain the rearend this could be included. It's not that difficult a job. Sponsors above have the seals as well as most everything you'll need. It's a good time to redo the brakes if they are heavily worn. Hopefully you have a good flex disc and fan on the driveshaft. They both need to be in good shape. Also, don't paint the aluminum portion of the hydro pump with the fins. The paint insulates and hinders cooling. If it has been painted I'd take the time to clean it. It does get rather warm. Always use Hytran too; it just the best thing plus it has extra qualities.
You need to check areas like where the pickle fork from the subframe has rubbed the cross shaft for years. It may need building up with weld. I've found them worn more than halfway through. By doing these little "fixes" it tightens things up and gets them back working like they're suppose to.
BTW, if you plan on going into the pump to fix or replace the trunion slot by removing it keep everything VERY clean. Opening the pump may seem a little overwhelming but it is very doable. If you don't want to take this route you can just weld the trunion up with it still in the pump. You just have to really protect the pump. I use wet rags plus it only takes a little welding here. It's not enough to generate too much heat in most cases but there is a seal for this shaft so just be careful. There is ample literature on these Sunstrand pumps and yours is the 15U. I'd read and read. The only special tool needed is a block of wood with two holes drilled to support the pump on the bench. The manual tells about the block and its dimensions.
In a few weeks you'll know every bolt on the tractor and hopefully what it is for.
You'll eventually need to check out the steering from the box to the front axle. If the wires are in bad shape a new harness is about $50.
You have the manual pto but haven't mentioned whether it's the newer brake style or the older model. I would go through it as well especially if it has been sitting for a while. It just lets you know exactly where you stand...like changing the oil.
That's probably enough for now. Good luck and don't forget the camera.
First thing I'd do is keep the camera handy. It can save a lot of time and worries by documenting everything you do and in stages. I use "used" plastic zip-loc type bags for every set of bolts/parts with a label enclosed. It's best to clean things as you go too. It gets aggravating to find dirty bolts or whatever when you're reassembling.
You might go ahead and plan on splitting the tractor so you can address the trunion, pump gasket, cam brackets, and linkages. Chances are you'll find worn areas on the trunion slot. To fix this welding will be involved. There's a FAQ above on this subject (as for many). If there was any sign of oil on the rear axles new seals might be needed so when you drain the rearend this could be included. It's not that difficult a job. Sponsors above have the seals as well as most everything you'll need. It's a good time to redo the brakes if they are heavily worn. Hopefully you have a good flex disc and fan on the driveshaft. They both need to be in good shape. Also, don't paint the aluminum portion of the hydro pump with the fins. The paint insulates and hinders cooling. If it has been painted I'd take the time to clean it. It does get rather warm. Always use Hytran too; it just the best thing plus it has extra qualities.
You need to check areas like where the pickle fork from the subframe has rubbed the cross shaft for years. It may need building up with weld. I've found them worn more than halfway through. By doing these little "fixes" it tightens things up and gets them back working like they're suppose to.
BTW, if you plan on going into the pump to fix or replace the trunion slot by removing it keep everything VERY clean. Opening the pump may seem a little overwhelming but it is very doable. If you don't want to take this route you can just weld the trunion up with it still in the pump. You just have to really protect the pump. I use wet rags plus it only takes a little welding here. It's not enough to generate too much heat in most cases but there is a seal for this shaft so just be careful. There is ample literature on these Sunstrand pumps and yours is the 15U. I'd read and read. The only special tool needed is a block of wood with two holes drilled to support the pump on the bench. The manual tells about the block and its dimensions.
In a few weeks you'll know every bolt on the tractor and hopefully what it is for.
You'll eventually need to check out the steering from the box to the front axle. If the wires are in bad shape a new harness is about $50.
You have the manual pto but haven't mentioned whether it's the newer brake style or the older model. I would go through it as well especially if it has been sitting for a while. It just lets you know exactly where you stand...like changing the oil.
That's probably enough for now. Good luck and don't forget the camera.
