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Steering wheel removal

IH Cub Cadet Tractor Forum

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john casey

Member
Joined
Jun 28, 2022
Messages
8
Location
pearl river ny
Need replace the dash decal on my new-to-me Cub 102, fifty plus years old. Trying to remove the steering wheel in order to remove/replace the decal.
Wheel won't budge, rusted on?? Used rust blaster, nuttin'. Don't have a gear puller. Also don't want to remove the steering gear, in the aftermarket, the important parts are unavailable like the long rod the steering wheel is attached to.
Help, please, Jack C
 
While sitting in the seat of the tractor, install steering wheel nut until it is flush with the top of the steering shaft. Using your thighs and knees, apply pressure to steering wheel from the under side, while doing so, tap the steering wheel nut with a hammer, I typically use a 40oz dead blow, and viola! The steering wheel will come off using this method.
 
John,
Welcome to the forum! :groupwave:
For parts, just go to the top of the page and click on one of the sponsors icons. CCSpecialties usually has everything you need. :bluethumbsup:
If you don't see the icon, just refresh the page until it comes up. The icons come up randomly.
Jay's got it right!
While pushing up with your legs, you can also take your hand and pull up at the 12 o'clock position on the wheel while you are hitting the nut.
As Jay stated, you only need a small gap between the wheel and nut for the wheel to come loose. Usually, around a 1/8" gap will work. I also suggest using another nut, so you won't "booger" up your good one if you use a regular hammer.
I have removed wheels this way from some of the oldest cubs made.
 
Above advice is good, but do know that you will likely damage the lower bearing race in the column with the hammer/bolt/nut method unless it pops off easily.

I don't understand your aversion to removing the column...there are worn parts in there that will need to be replaced anyway, and you're far more likely to damage the shaft of the steering column by removing the wheel than by removing the whole column. Not to mention you won't get a new decal on there without removing the column and the rubber grommet...
 
If you have good up pressure, It usually pops off in 3-5 licks with the hammer. Your legs take most of the impact, so the bearings don't see much, unless there is continual beating. If the steering is like the older models, you can take the bottom plate out along with the bearings if you are concerned about them being damaged.
 
I removed mine by using a 3-eared puller with the arms off and replaced with light chain around the steering wheel spokes. I placed half round pieces of 1" air hose under the spokes , it came right off with out any hammering. I soaked the area inside with PB Blaster last night and let it sit.
 
I got mine off by putting a 7/16 bolt and some flat washers on the bolt into the steering shaft hole. I used an air hammer with a blunt end tool to hammer the bolt as I pulled up on the wheel with my free hand. After a few bursts with the air hammer the steering wheel came off. I had used penetrating oil prior to using this method and believe it helped as it soaked in. On there for 55 years.
 
$10 steel split collar with 1.75” ID from Amazon and a 2 finger puller. The collar saves potential damage to the bottom of the wheel.
 

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I just removed the steering wheel from my 782D to replace the dash grommet. I removed the nut, and simply gave it a strong yank, and it popped right off. There was zero rust on the wheel or shaft splines. Your results may vary.
 
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