Cranks extreme to left,almost nothing past center to right.Is it possible to pull apart from bottom?Can the inside gears actually jump or has this been badly bent? I know this machine had no care for a long time.Had to use a torch,a punch,and a 3lb hammer to get spindle out axle housing..zero grease residue....steering wheel doesn't seem to want to come off Make a puller?Any "good" advice most welcome, I'm pretty new to the old cubs...
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steering issue on a 107
- Thread starter gary noblit
- Start date
Help Support IH Cub Cadet Tractor Forum:
Drag link is badly mis adjusted.
Disconnect one end of the drag link with the wheels in the straight ahead position.
Find the center of the turns on the steering wheel.
Adjust the drag link to reach the hole in the steering box lever.
How about a picture of this problem.
Sounds like someone has messed with the steering and maybe replaced the drag link with one that's too short or something.
Disconnect one end of the drag link with the wheels in the straight ahead position.
Find the center of the turns on the steering wheel.
Adjust the drag link to reach the hole in the steering box lever.
How about a picture of this problem.
Sounds like someone has messed with the steering and maybe replaced the drag link with one that's too short or something.
Dave, not sure about a pic that would show anything but shadows and grease.I'll try the disconnect tomorrow and measure ..It has been abused so nothing would surprise me..thanks
Probably just a wrong or out of adjustment drag link like Dave mentioned. But something else to check is the steering arm on the top of the left spindle, perhaps a PO re drilled the hole some degrees off from the original hole in an attempt to fix sloppy steering but didn't correct for drag link.
Kraig...very probable
glippert
Well-known member
Gary - Regarding the steering wheel removal, in the FAQs, #18b has a couple methods. I've successfully used the first method a couple of times, but I've come to prefer Matt Gonitzke's method. It's simple to make his tool and it works very well. With either of the methods, PB Blaster, Kroil, or your favorite penetrant used liberally will be your best friend.
Here's a pic of Matt's tool:
Here's a pic of Matt's tool:
Greg, thanks hope I don't have to use it but that looks a lot easier than the metal one I was conjuring up..
That wood block is a grand idea! I will remember it. Some things don't change. That's like my Snap-On set I have to get steering wheels off my K and L series IH trucks.
Kraig,you were correct...hole is about 20 deg. off and very sloppy ..will have to rethink.I found the new part but it's a bit pricey for my budget...thanks everyone for input....
What's that saying about a blind squirrel occasionally finding a nut...? Lucky guess on my part.
GARY - If you have severely worn holes where tie rod ends bolted to steering arms you will have all kinds of wear in the steering gearbox. It only has one zerk on it but it's kinda hard to get a grease gun on, and I bet your tractor's prior owner NEVER greased the gearbox. I bet you have more fun and adventures ahead. I'd look closely under the steering wheel of your 107, turn the wheel one way a quarter or half turn, then turn the other way. If the 3/4" diameter shaft under the steering wheel raises up and moves down into the 2" diameter steering tube you should rebuild the gearbox. It's not hard, but can be messy, have to coat parts with grease.
How far each way does the the wheel turn before and action happens at the wheels??
Look for slop and wear at every joint including the axle shaft it self.
If there is considerable fore and aft play there I would consider pulling the axle and squeezing the channel that it pivots in to remove the excess play.
Steering is a sore spot on most of the older Cubs and one time or another due to lack of maintenance, and or operator abuse.
Good luck?
Look for slop and wear at every joint including the axle shaft it self.
If there is considerable fore and aft play there I would consider pulling the axle and squeezing the channel that it pivots in to remove the excess play.
Steering is a sore spot on most of the older Cubs and one time or another due to lack of maintenance, and or operator abuse.
Good luck?
I needed you to post that problem. After I tore a147 completely down my steering is doing alot of the same thing. Turns way left but hardly right,now I have some things to look at!
That's why most of us ae here .We learn from each others misfortunes and gain some wisdom to pass on. Bob ,my steering wheel does 2 full turns from stop to stop, set in the middle is what showed me Kraig was right about being off a few deg. All of the steering joints on this 107 are sloppy so a lot of repair to come.I'm very comfortable with the knowledge someone else has done this before and are willing to help. What I did was cut off old upper shaft,welded on a new one (a Professional did) then redrilled upper arm to correct location.Final tweak with adjusters on drag link...Yes it's still sloppy but usable..
Bob, I forgot to mention drag link off front end, wheels straight.That will give the clue as to how far you are off..
ROBERT ALLISON - The problem with your 147 is the drag link, the bar between the steering gearbox and left front spindle is too short, the tie rod ends threaded on too far probably.
I actually set the steering on my CC#72 that way to a degree on purpose, helped me manuver around in my small yard easier.
I actually set the steering on my CC#72 that way to a degree on purpose, helped me manuver around in my small yard easier.
Do you have an idea how much longer I should make a new one?
Bob, you" inferred" it was ok before you took it apart.So what did you do that changed that when you put it back together?
glippert
Well-known member
I think you should be able to experiment with the ball joints to determine if you need a longer one, and how much longer. With the steering wheel centered and the wheels straight, remove the drag link and measure the distance from the spindle arm to the steering box. Measure the length of the drag link with ball joints on, and again with them off, to determine the total length of the ball joints. Subtract the length of the ball joints from the first measurement (spindle to steering box) to determine the drag link length.
(I don't mean to insult your inelligence - I presume you've already tried adjusting the ball joints on you existing drag line, and it's still too short?)
Gary I did change that drag link,the other was stripped at one end
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