Should I clear use a clear coat

[tmarkle]

I mix and sell paint for a living and have been painting tractors for over 30yrs. I have also been to Martin-Senour paint training. I stand by my original statement. I specified single stage urethane in my post. Single stage urethane has the clear (with its UV inhibitors built in) already mixed in to the paint. If using quality paint it is every bit as durable and UV resistant as urethane clear coat. I painted my F-12 in 1991 with PPG single stage urethane and other than some rub marks from polishing and waxing it looks as good as the day it was painted. I still have people who look at it think it was recently painted.

Any paint (even the very best)will eventually fade if it's always out in the weather and under continuous exposure to the sun. I distinctly remember my instructor at paint school saying "any coating is a ticking time bomb" meaning that nothing lasts forever.

For a tractor that is kept in a dark shed and only taken out to be used or to show, good quality paint will last virtually forever.

 

[jchamberlin]

Todd,

Your word is certainly good enough for me!

Allow me one follow-up question, and it is a serious one: Does paint need to be applied by a professional to last a good, long time?

The reason I ask is that I'm considering taking my torn-down tractor to a professional to paint it for me. I'm really not the best painter, I don't have the equipment, and I'm not particularly interested in learning the art of painting. If I can't brush it on or spray it from a can (which always seems to run), I'm not interested.

A second follow-up: If I take my parts to be painted, what sort of preparation should I expect to do, and what sort of preparation should the "professional" handle?

Interested in your thoughts.

 

[tmarkle]

Jeremiah,
The paint doesn't have to be applied by a pro as long as proper procedures are followed. But laying the paint down and making it look smooth and glossy does take some talent, or at least practice.
90% of a good paint job is in the prep work. The more you can do yourself will usually save you money over paying shop labor rate. Some people like to sand blast but sheet metal has to be done carefully to avoid warpage. You could also use electrolysis, wire wheels, sandpaper, etc. Just make sure to get rid of and neutralize all the rust. It looks like your fenders may have a dent in the top? You may want to have the pro look at that before you do anything with it unless you are confident with your skills in that area.

The smoother you get the primer, the better the paint will turn out. Anything you see in the primer will show in the paint. I like to final sand the primer with 600 grit before painting.

If you are considering having a pro do some or all of the work, talk to him and see what he thinks you can/should do yourself before starting on it.

 

[jchamberlin]

Todd,

Thank you for giving my query a thoughtful response. You're right about the fender "bender;" I think a limb fell on it while it was in "storage" before I received it. I just pried it off the tire with a 2x4 so the fender wouldn't cut my hands when I pushed it. I'm not at all confident in my ability to straighten the sheet metal, for me, it is another reason to seek out the services of a professional.

You're right, of course, I need to talk to the person I want to paint it before I start my prep. But, if I go with the single-stage urethane, as you recommend, what sort of primer do I need to use? I would hate to put on something that is incompatible with the final finish.

 

[tmarkle]

Jeremiah,
My best recommendation is to pick a paint brand and use their complete system for primers and paint. Here again, talk to your pro and see what he uses. most body men have a favorite and like to stick with what they are familiar with. You don't "have" to stay with the same brand but when you do they chemically bond together to give the best adhesion and chip resistance.

 

[jchamberlin]

Good advice, Todd. Thank you.

 

[thill]

For rust removal, check out The Machine Shop topic and the"Check this out..." thread. I just posted my own opines but everything's good there. Just pick a method that you feel comfortable with. That will also minimize your costs if you go to a pro.

 

[thill]

Couple of great paint tips I picked up from a pro were...

Always hang the part the way it will sit on the equipment. That is a hood should lay horizontal and the grill vertical while spraying. This applies to everything you paint, period.

Next was overlapping strokes for each thin coat , probably two are necessary and if clearing more for the clear, as many as a total of five, 3 base 2 clear all really thin.

 

[ttallarico]

I've been painting since the early '80's. There seems to be a misconception in this post. Although there are single stage paints that CAN be cleared, most clear systems are a base coat and clear coat. The base coat is very fragile and needs the clear coat for a complete system. Single stage urethanes and acrylic enamels are every bit as UV protected and can be shot, cut and buffed to similar shines and durability although, the benefits of 2 stage paints, base coat/clear coats are depth of shine, since there is a full layer of clear on top of the color along with being able to make any corrections to your base coat prior to topcoating with the clear. In all honesty, for a tractor, even a trailer queen, single stage paints will do everything that 2 stage paints will do, except for the depth of shine. Same as on cars. If you are looking for a reasonably priced, good quality finish, PPG's shop line is Omni. It's a little less than half of their regular products. I normally shoot Omni MP17X Epoxy Primer on bare metal that has been properly prepped (bright steel, wax/grease remover and metal prep), then any mud work, a final cost of MP17X mixed as a sealer and then topcoat with MTK Acrylic Urethane. That's one of a million paint systems, and one of a million proper ways to paint. It's just the one that has been the best bang for my buck. I also paint my work trucks for my construction company, and have been using that system for about 10 years. These trucks stay outside and were painted 5+ years ago, treated poorly and are still look very presentable.

All that being said, shooting a base/clear system is 'easy'. Not in the way that it will turn out perfect every time, but in the way that if it doesn't turn out perfect, it is relatively easy to correct. If you get a run in your base, it can be sanded (very easily) and spotted in. If you get runs in your clear, orange peel, bugs, etc, you can wetsand and then cut and buff to a mirror finish if thats what your going for. Just keep in mind, the shinier the end product the more noticeable all imperfections are. Kind of a paradox! Good luck to the original poster...}

 

[dtanner]

Thom Tallarico
spray it ! if you can do the colour justice with age, go ahead and be happy.Its only a garden tractor.Thats why this is called a refurb not a restore to original.

 

[ttallarico]

Donald Tanner - I have my process (Epoxy Primer and Acrylic Urethane) I was posting in reply to the original poster's question.