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Restored vintage cub cadet 100

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eslywczak

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Ed Slywczak

digger

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Restored Cub Cadet 100 w restored dirt plow
Has brinley hitch and plow
1250.00
Just so you'll know for future reference. There's a HUGE difference between a nice REFURBISH and a RESTORATION. Just sayin. (y) And it's Brinly.
 

Orry Allison

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So would it be better to do a restoration rather than a refurbish if you were gonna take on a project like this?
 

dschwandt

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I have seen many so called "restorations" where you can grasp the steering wheel and get near a half turn of it before any movement can be detected at the wheels, axle or knuckles.
Restoration!!??
I don't think so Tim.

They look just great until you actually try to use them and risk a MWI citation!!:yikes:
Just sayin'
 

Orry Allison

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Thats actually the parts I'm waiting on right now for my steering. Cam follwer and some seals. What kind of packing grease would be good to use ? Will the stuff from the auto parts store work?
 

dschwandt

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David Schwandt
The sector housing has a grease fitting.
Regular gun grease like you would use on the knuckles and axle pivot will suffice.
Install the "super steer" bearing nod and readjust. Best done on the bench in a vise.

Pull the axle pin and check for wear on pin and 'C' channel bushings , replace if needed.
To correct for and aft play in the axle, "squeeze" the 'C' channel or shim as needed to correct.
Make sure the axle pivot zerk fitting is operable and will take grease.

Replace tie rod ends if needed.
Make sure the knuckle inserts are free to turn in the axle ends with the bolt and knuckle as a unit and will take grease.

Shim to adjust wheel bearing play, 1/32" (not much!!) (as suggested in the FSM), as needed to correct any wheel bearing adjustment.
Any shims used must bear on the outer race of the bearing.

Once you have everything back to spec you Cub will be a pure joy to operate.
 
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hydroharry

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Harry Bursell
Orry - there are hardly any truly "restored" Cub Cadets. Had a friend that did "true" restorations which even included a paint run on the inside of the frame just like the factory did. The Correct Police know where to look for this. When you have a "true" restoration it's to purty to use.
 

Orry Allison

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Great thanks for the info dschwandt! Understood I'm definitely not looking to do a show room floor restoration but just make it a little better looking. Also I'm trying to be as accurate as possible when fixing or replacing anything on my 124.
 

hydroharry

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Orry - make sure there is an IH stamped on the head of all your bolts, at least the larger ones (can't use those marked with WP which were made later than a 124). The Service Manual has pics of the correct bolt heads on the 3rd or 4th page as I recall. It may even show a bolt head with just a "dot" on it. That's a really early IH bolt and I wouldn't use it on your 124. If you have any questions about what you're planning to use just post a pic and we'll let you know if it's right.
 

John DeBree

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Years ago, my uncle used to restore Model A Fords. Points were actually deducted for 'over-restored' cars, meaning the fit and finish was better than factory. I've seen plenty of tractors at shows that look a lot nicer than factory finish. I saw one Farmall where they had smoothed and filled all of the castings so that they looked like porcelain! Of course, you can do whatever you want.
 

hydroharry

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Mike - nope, ain't my 169. I pretty certain it's Charlie's tho. I know he carries the biggest badge and figured he had the biggest lights too. :errrr:
 

bwilkinson

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Even with a restoration, why can't the faults from the factory also be corrected instead of carry on with the fault. I am " redoing " a 126 but making corrections where improvements would be helpful so I will call mine a" redo ".
 

hydroharry

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Bert - I really wouldn't call it a "redo". If someone asked you then you can tell them you did some refurbishment work on the tractor. If you're at a show most people will unknowingly tell you it's a nice restoration and looks like new. Only you and the Correct Police will know the difference. As for correcting faults, well you can correct what ever you want. I've mentioned before on other threads that when I did the refurb work on my 169 I used some pre and post production parts. Pre-production were Narrow Frame front wheels which have the wide offset (and valve stem) to the outside. It gives the front end a little wider stance. Couple post-production items like a Quiet Line series hood hinge and 82 series high back seat.

One thing I always wondered about was the 6 set-screws in the PTO. I used some old ones that I removed and cleaned up, but I don't know of any way to tell if they are original. :errrr:
 

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