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That's a four paddle auger, it should really throw the snow. It appears to be in very good condition. You'll definitely want to get rid of all the rust inside the auger housing and discharge chute. That rust is a big factor in slowing down the snow and causing plugging.
 
Well I spent the afternoon with a small crescent wrench straightening the ends of the auger. works really well. Then i body hammered with a big heavy hand dolly. Got it all straight. looks good. The drive shaft moves away from aluminum housing. so i will install a washer for the play. Thanks for the input. Kraig Appreciate.
 
Steve - nice to see you got a 4-paddle auger in your QA42A. I'm pretty certain the later production units came with the 4-paddle version. Get yourself a copy of the Thrower mounting and operation instruction manual so you can see the various features and how to check things and set it up. It will help you alot with your restoration.

I'm a little surprised Kraig didn't mention another wear area on that aluminum chain tensioner bracket. The chain sprocket is steel and cuts right into both inside edges of the tensioner bracket. I strongly suggest adding some brass shims on each side of the sprocket to keep it from cutting into the aluminum bracket (where the needle bearings are hidden (and what those 2 grease zerks provide grease to). Don't shim it up tight. You need to have some play. Also, you might have to do some adjusting to make sure you align the small chain sprocket with the large one. I don't know how they get out of alignment but I've seen several where the chain is cutting into the slot in the housing where it goes thru to the large sprocket on the auger. Hopefully you won't have to re-align the large sprocket on the auger. It's not bad to do if you are changing the bearings on each end of the auger.

Also, when you install that washer between the end of the driveshaft and the chain tensioner bracket you might inadvertently be changing the alignment of the small chain sprocket with the large chain sprocket on the auger. When the thrower is installed on your tractor and you raise and lower the thrower you are extending and compressing the driveshaft. At the extremes (fully extended or fully compressed) the driveshaft will either push the small sprocket away or pull it towards the driveshaft. This is when that little sprocket does most of the cutting into the aluminum bracket. Leave some play on either side of the small sprocket but make sure it's aligned with the large sprocket.

And one final thing. I'll bet using that crescent wrench on your auger was kind of a pain, and each area you straightened doesn't really align with the area next to it. The easiest and best method I've found is to use 2 ball peen hammers. Put one hammer in each hand and hit them together at the same time (with the auger flight between the hammers). You'll be surprised how quick and easy it is to do and how well it works. An old timer body man showed me this technique and I couldn't believe how well it works, and how fast you can straighten a complete auger.

(Hey Kraig - have you got a tips and tricks area when you can put a note with the details I just mentioned to straighten an auger? Or maybe you should wait until a couple guys confirm how well it works).
 
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So which auger is better, the two paddle or 4 paddle? The one I'm currently using has a beat up 2 paddle and it does pretty well in any kind of snow. I bought a 4 paddle recently in much better shape but well weathered. Haven't had a chance to go through it yet.
 

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So which auger is better, the two paddle or 4 paddle? The one I'm currently using has a beat up 2 paddle and it does pretty well in any kind of snow. I bought a 4 paddle recently in much better shape but well weathered. Haven't had a chance to go through it yet.

Dennis - well, IH changed the design to a 4 paddle so there is an assumption it must be better. If you look at them you'll see the auger on a 2 paddle brings the snow from each side to the center at the same time and onto one paddle which throws it up and out the chute. The 4 paddle has the auger flights and paddles 90degrees offset side to side, so that the snow from one side comes to the center onto one paddle and up the chute, at a 90 degree offset from the next paddle throwing snow coming from the other side.

So - how much difference does it make between the 2 paddle and 4 paddle??? I wish I was an engineer and could answer that scientifically. I tend to think there are alot of factors that effect it, but I suspect there is a slight advantage to the 4 paddle.

One thing I do know is the 2 paddle version must develop a lot of pressure on the paddle. Most all the 2 paddle versions I saw had cracks steel where the tips of the paddle is welded to the flight. I don't recall seeing a 4 paddle that suffered this same issue. Maybe some of the engineer types on here will chime in with some details.

What I will say is that both versions will really throw snow, when everything is tuned up well, everything is well painted (no sticky rust) AND of course you're running the thrower at wide open throttle AND using a HYDRO tractor with infinitely variable speed :roflol:
 

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