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PTO Clutch

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jparsons

Member
Joined
Apr 10, 2007
Messages
19
displayname
John Parsons
My cub cadet 123 has a PTO clutch that will not stop spinning. I replaced the brake button and adjusted the rod from the lever to the clutch brake. It didn't help. I am guessing I need to replace the PTO clutch. Is there any other likely fix to try before I put money into replacing the clutch? Thanks!
 
Sounds like a bad bearing

Withe rod properly adjusted and in the disengaged position the front plate should turn freely by hand
Thanks for the advice. I have two cub cadets. I see what you mean about the front plate turning freely. On the cub that has a working PTO, the front plate does turn freely. The other cub (that I was asking about) has a PTO that will not turn freely when PTO brake is disengaged. I think I'll put money into buying a replacement PTO.
 
What I recently discovered is the clutch was not getting released because it was hitting the end of the crankshaft. You might move it out a little bit to get the movement you need. I read on here in a thread about it and as long as you have most of the clutch disk in the basket it might give you the movement you need.I did not notice that it wasn’t all the way in the basket when I took it apart and made for a very frustrating week. 3 factory buttons and a couple of homemade wood ones later it works well now.
 
What I recently discovered is the clutch was not getting released because it was hitting the end of the crankshaft. You might move it out a little bit to get the movement you need. I read on here in a thread about it and as long as you have most of the clutch disk in the basket it might give you the movement you need.I did not notice that it wasn’t all the way in the basket when I took it apart and made for a very frustrating week. 3 factory buttons and a couple of homemade wood ones later it works well now.
Glad you got it!
 
It was/is but for some reason I had to move the clutch assembly out just a little bit maybe 1/8 of a inch to get room for it to disengage. I’m sure there is this measurement and that measurement but this is what finally worked for me after reading it in a post on here.
 
What I recently discovered is the clutch was not getting released because it was hitting the end of the crankshaft. You might move it out a little bit to get the movement you need. I read on here in a thread about it and as long as you have most of the clutch disk in the basket it might give you the movement you need.I did not notice that it wasn’t all the way in the basket when I took it apart and made for a very frustrating week. 3 factory buttons and a couple of homemade wood ones later it works well now.
Yee-ha! I'm not the only one who has made a temporary wood wood release button. My style was oak, soaked in motor oil. Held on clutch release arm with a small metal strap. Did not bad until I got my shipment from Digger. DID last long enough to take care of a critical job!
 
And digger is the one who gave me the idea.
 

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I finally got around to removing the PTO from my cub cadet 123. I now see that one of the set screws that locks the clutch to the crankshaft has been sheared off and the tip no longer engages with the crankshaft . I'm guessing this is why the clutch brake no longer stops the PTO from spinning. Anyone have experience with this and can confirm my diagnosis? (Unfortunately there appears to be no way to back out the set screw so a new PTO probably is necessary). Thanks!
 
Turn it through the other way.
Can you still engage the end with an Allen wrench?
You stated the PTO is off the crankshaft, correct?
The tips of the cone screws do not contact the crank but rather the back side of the bearing which is locked to the crank by the eccentric collar which is also on the back side of the bearing.
The 3 cone point screws lock the PTO between the internal snap ring and the back side of the bearing proper.
The threads inside the PTO should be able to be cleaned up with a tap.
 
I don't know if it was made clear but there are 6 set screws, 2 in each hole, the pointed ones go in first and hook onto the bearing as explained above, then the 3 "jam" screws go on top of the cone setscrews to lock them in.
 
Here's a colorized (thanks to Roland Bedell for coloring it) cut away view of the mechanical PTO. If the engagement lever is adjusted so that it pulls in on the PTO too far, the center button can contact the crank shaft end and spin the PTO making it appear that it is not disengaging.

Mechanical PTO.jpg
 
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