• FIRST AND LAST NAMES ARE REQUIRED WHEN REGISTERING

PTO Clutch

IH Cub Cadet Tractor Forum

Help Support IH Cub Cadet Tractor Forum:

jparsons

Member
Joined
Apr 10, 2007
Messages
19
displayname
John Parsons
My cub cadet 123 has a PTO clutch that will not stop spinning. I replaced the brake button and adjusted the rod from the lever to the clutch brake. It didn't help. I am guessing I need to replace the PTO clutch. Is there any other likely fix to try before I put money into replacing the clutch? Thanks!
 

dschwandt

Well-known member
IHCC Supporter
Joined
Mar 31, 2012
Messages
4,730
displayname
David Schwandt
Sounds like a bad bearing

Withe rod properly adjusted and in the disengaged position the front plate should turn freely by hand
 

jparsons

Member
Joined
Apr 10, 2007
Messages
19
displayname
John Parsons
Sounds like a bad bearing

Withe rod properly adjusted and in the disengaged position the front plate should turn freely by hand
Thanks for the advice. I have two cub cadets. I see what you mean about the front plate turning freely. On the cub that has a working PTO, the front plate does turn freely. The other cub (that I was asking about) has a PTO that will not turn freely when PTO brake is disengaged. I think I'll put money into buying a replacement PTO.
 

Jake Olsen

Well-known member
IHCC Supporter
Joined
Jun 8, 2021
Messages
173
Location
Utah
What I recently discovered is the clutch was not getting released because it was hitting the end of the crankshaft. You might move it out a little bit to get the movement you need. I read on here in a thread about it and as long as you have most of the clutch disk in the basket it might give you the movement you need.I did not notice that it wasn’t all the way in the basket when I took it apart and made for a very frustrating week. 3 factory buttons and a couple of homemade wood ones later it works well now.
 

RAllison

Well-known member
IHCC Supporter
Joined
Mar 26, 2021
Messages
1,255
Location
LaPorte IN 46350
What I recently discovered is the clutch was not getting released because it was hitting the end of the crankshaft. You might move it out a little bit to get the movement you need. I read on here in a thread about it and as long as you have most of the clutch disk in the basket it might give you the movement you need.I did not notice that it wasn’t all the way in the basket when I took it apart and made for a very frustrating week. 3 factory buttons and a couple of homemade wood ones later it works well now.
Glad you got it!
 

Jake Olsen

Well-known member
IHCC Supporter
Joined
Jun 8, 2021
Messages
173
Location
Utah
It was/is but for some reason I had to move the clutch assembly out just a little bit maybe 1/8 of a inch to get room for it to disengage. I’m sure there is this measurement and that measurement but this is what finally worked for me after reading it in a post on here.
 

rfunk

Well-known member
Joined
Jun 14, 2019
Messages
116
Location
Winkler, Manitoba, Canada
displayname
Reynold Funk
What I recently discovered is the clutch was not getting released because it was hitting the end of the crankshaft. You might move it out a little bit to get the movement you need. I read on here in a thread about it and as long as you have most of the clutch disk in the basket it might give you the movement you need.I did not notice that it wasn’t all the way in the basket when I took it apart and made for a very frustrating week. 3 factory buttons and a couple of homemade wood ones later it works well now.
Yee-ha! I'm not the only one who has made a temporary wood wood release button. My style was oak, soaked in motor oil. Held on clutch release arm with a small metal strap. Did not bad until I got my shipment from Digger. DID last long enough to take care of a critical job!
 

Jake Olsen

Well-known member
IHCC Supporter
Joined
Jun 8, 2021
Messages
173
Location
Utah
And digger is the one who gave me the idea.
 

Attachments

  • DA773C03-885E-45BC-A1A5-2449FAD4DADE.jpeg
    DA773C03-885E-45BC-A1A5-2449FAD4DADE.jpeg
    211.1 KB · Views: 0

jparsons

Member
Joined
Apr 10, 2007
Messages
19
displayname
John Parsons
I finally got around to removing the PTO from my cub cadet 123. I now see that one of the set screws that locks the clutch to the crankshaft has been sheared off and the tip no longer engages with the crankshaft . I'm guessing this is why the clutch brake no longer stops the PTO from spinning. Anyone have experience with this and can confirm my diagnosis? (Unfortunately there appears to be no way to back out the set screw so a new PTO probably is necessary). Thanks!
 

dschwandt

Well-known member
IHCC Supporter
Joined
Mar 31, 2012
Messages
4,730
displayname
David Schwandt
Turn it through the other way.
Can you still engage the end with an Allen wrench?
You stated the PTO is off the crankshaft, correct?
The tips of the cone screws do not contact the crank but rather the back side of the bearing which is locked to the crank by the eccentric collar which is also on the back side of the bearing.
The 3 cone point screws lock the PTO between the internal snap ring and the back side of the bearing proper.
The threads inside the PTO should be able to be cleaned up with a tap.
 

mfrade

Well-known member
Joined
Feb 18, 2000
Messages
2,507
Location
New Bedford, MA
displayname
Mike Frade
I don't know if it was made clear but there are 6 set screws, 2 in each hole, the pointed ones go in first and hook onto the bearing as explained above, then the 3 "jam" screws go on top of the cone setscrews to lock them in.
 

kmcconaughey

Keeper of the Photos
Staff member
Administrator
Moderator
Joined
Aug 4, 2006
Messages
18,154
Location
Wisconsin
displayname
Kraig McConaughey
Here's a colorized (thanks to Roland Bedell for coloring it) cut away view of the mechanical PTO. If the engagement lever is adjusted so that it pulls in on the PTO too far, the center button can contact the crank shaft end and spin the PTO making it appear that it is not disengaging.

Mechanical PTO.jpg
 
Top