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Project 100 rejuvenation

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Beats me!!
One or the other I suppose.
Mine was yellow, but so was the rubber bushing in the dash face, leading me to think this Cub had been repainted at least once.

I doubt if the dash was in place when the frame was painted, there is no bare metal on the frame where the dash bolted onto it.

I'll have to check my 100's and the other 70 and see what's up with them.
 
Marty do I need to paint it yellow for it to be like original
 
Timothy,

I am about 98% positive, it should be yellow.
Kraig, or several other guys could confirm this.

Go to "finally doing a 100" and look what Kraig posted on Aug. 17, 6:57AM. They are yellow.
 
Timothy, Marty is correct, the steering column housing should be yellow on a model 100 to be correct as it would have left the factory.
 
What color should the implements built by IH be a 901 white or 935?
 
Timothy,

Don't forget the 902 white and the 483B yellow!
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Just scroll down to David's post on the 17th and click on the http link he gave. Then click on the IH cub cadet paint and decal page link.
These pages will tell you almost everything you need to know about colors.

Don't beat yourself up on deciding which color to use.
Any federal yellow, and any off shade of white will look great. No one will come over there and beat you up if it isn't the perfect shade.
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You can even look at the pics I have posted on my 100 thread. You will see that although it is the same color out of the same can, the shade is very different when a flash is used, and when it is not.
Even different lot numbers of any color will be slightly different shade. Example: Buy 935 white at one dealer, and buy 935 white at another dealer, and the shade will be a little different. (different lot #'s)

Paint it up, do your best, and be proud of your restoration!

As someone told me (and it has been mentioned several times), "For Pete's sake, it is only a garden tractor!"
 
Thankfully (I believe) the correct police have all moved on to greener pastures.. except of course, Hydro Harry! Who'll deny any participation of course!
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"They" served a purpose of course, but some of us just wanted a good ol' worker.. didn't need a queen! But I'm glad it's quieter without them. Just sayin'.
 
Mike - well, I received a lot of awards from the Correct Police but I don't think that makes me a member. Could I be considered a "snitch"?
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I don't really agree with Marty's advice to Tim on using any Federal yellow and any off shade of white, but I also don't know how original Tim wants his tractor to be.
I've seen a lot of different shades of Federal yellow, and there are probably a zillion shades of off white.
Sure Tim's tractor will look nice all painted up BUT if he wants to take it to a show and line it up with other Cubs, well... it just won't look right.
At this point I recommend the Case/IH Iron Guard paints over the CCC paints. The Iron Guard seems to have a little better gloss and better coverage. NAPA might mix up the colors based on the formulas posted on the paint page, but I also think that gets really expensive. Why not just go to CC Specialties? The spray cans are a little costly if you go that route, but the quart cans aren't really that expensive if you're using your own compressor and sprayer.

And Mike, what's this repartee' stuff. By the time I type it, it ain't repartee.
 
Hi 'Ya Harry!! I was wondering if I could "bait" you into a reply!?!?! A snitch?? Nah, and I'd have to say that if you aren't a member that's cause you may be the President!! ROFL!
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I don't know what Tim wants from his tractor either. And if he wants to show it off, good for him, he should be happy with the work he's done on it. A trailer queen may not be what he's after and that should be ok too..

But I remember many guys who were left with a bad impression of us because the "coppers" felt they had the only opinion available. Guys like me would never participate because it was to exhausting being told I'm wrong yet again.

I think we've gotten past those days and have a better balance than years past. And don't get me wrong, guys like Jim Chabot uncovered so much info back in the early days, it was /is most helpful even now. And your self as well, You kept asking the questions and searched for the answers and those things made it easier for those that followed.

Well, like I said I think the balance between the owners of queens and worker is much better now. And "opinions" are also more balanced.
 
Mike, back in the day (late 1990's into the early 2000's) a big part of this forum was spent researching to discover what was correct. I was at least a deputy in the correct police force back then.
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I probably have a badge of some sort around here.
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Mike - hey I thought those were the fun times! I think I was more of a "Reporter". Just the facts and nothing but the facts, but still could have been fake news
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And Kraig - I think it was during that time you were anointed with the title "Oh Great One, Keeper of the Photos".

Now, the bigger question here is whether Tim is trying to make his 100 a 100point resto or whether it will be a really nice looking (mostly) correct unit.

Everyone already knows the Round Fender Model 100 is a real classic no matter if it's wearing work clothes or all dressed up.
 
Kraig, Harry, that's one thing we can all agree on! Tim can have his machine any way he likes it!

It's all good - all the investigating and fact finding benefitted everyone, here and all the other sites as well. And back in the old days, THIS was the only site!
 
I was wondering if someone could tell me what size and length bronze bushings I need for the rear axle from McMaster Carr
 
Tim, the 100 should use bearings in the rear axles. The 70 and the Original used the bronze bushings. However I think the very early 100s may have also used the bushings. Does the steering wheel use an acorn nut with a metal spoke steering wheel or does it have a decorative plastic cover over the hub on a plastic steering wheel? Back to the bushings, I am not sure of the size, sorry.

EDIT: I think I got the bushings vs bearings wrong. The bushings may have been used through the 1x2/3 series.
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Harry,

I did not mean to convey that any federal yellow and any off white would work. I was just stating that the correct shade would almost be impossible to duplicate.
As the links that David S. posted show, there are different shades of yellow and white even from IH themselves on different models of cubs.
I like to keep things as close to original as possible, but cannot always do this.

For instance, the Case IH Irongard 901 white is NLA.
935 white is all that is available, so I am going with that, so all my tractors and implements will mostly match.
At least the paint I use will have a IH on the can. LOL!

As I stated earlier, even the exact same color and brand of paint will vary ever so slightly from one lot number to another.
As long as I can, I will always use Case IH Irongard (quart can) on everything I paint.

Some people prefer other brands such as NAPA, PPG, and others which is fine if you have a lot of money and time.
I prefer the Case IH, because I can go get it already mixed and ready to go.

I did try NAPA once for some IH 901 white.
They looked at me like I was crazy, and said they had no idea what I was talking about.
They said if I had a sample of the color, I could take it to the main napa store in Greensboro and "maybe get a close match" for about $60 to $90 bucks a quart! No thanks.

The correct color for the O, 70, and 100 is IH 901 white and IH 483 yellow.
The 901 is NLA, and the Case IH yellow does not say "483 Yellow", only "Federal Yellow."
The 935 white and federal yellow is the closest thing I can get under the IH name, so I will stay with that for as long as it is available. Just my preference.
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