Pre paint prep

[Larry Liberto]

Rustoleum is linseed oil based paint.. Not compatible with other paints as they are urethane enamel and have a differant chemical composition.. I have had problems with it wrinkling and fisheyeing when you try to spray enamel over it..

Kevin, when was the last time you tried using Rustoleum? I know today's Rustoleum isn't the same formula than it was back in the 80s or prior.

 

[rjruchti]

I have used Rustoleum primer but always use the same brand of paint as the primer, regardless of who made it. Do It Best is also a good combination of primer paint in the rattle cans. All depends of what your end results are, show quality or good looking useful paint job.

 

[kphill]

I worked for a company who used rustoleum on certain products because the one supervisor liked it for some reason.. It was terrible to work with.. Rustoleum was big in the 70s but there is so much better coatings out there.. I have always got a kick out of thier selling point "stops rust".. You know what else stops rust?.. grease ,motor oil or any thing that creates a barrier between the air and bare metal.. If you go into a auto body shop you will not find it there..

 

[rjruchti]

I was painting tractor and equipment, not cars.

 

[kphill]

Same rules apply...

 

[Stu]

Well, I’ve been using rustoleums “rusty metal primer” for about 4 years now, followed by their top coat (brushed or rolled on) First time I used it was on the outside of an old cast iron bathtub (had been outside for years) where I couldn’t get all the way down into the pores to get the rust. Still looks perfect. Since then I’ve used it on rusty bits of my 1990 Volvo underside, and on the spindle housings on my 44a cub deck. Probably not what you want to use on a showroom restoration but works fine otherwise.

 

[kphill]

Well, I am glad you like it.. to me painting over rust is like painting over cancer.. Gotta remove it first or you will be wasting your time..And as for promoting auto finishes, the recommendation was the Case Ironguard finish that is made for our tractors...

 

[Larry Liberto]

Well, I am glad you like it.. to me painting over rust is like painting over cancer.. Gotta remove it first or you will be wasting your time..And as for promoting auto finishes, the recommendation was the Case Ironguard finish that is made for our tractors...

There's a plethora of products like POR-15, Naval Jelly, Muriatic Acid that can neutralize/remove rust in preparation for paint.

 

[kphill]

Yes there is, and I have used some of them.. But the key word is remove..

 

[Larry Liberto]

Yes there is, and I have used some of them.. But the key word is remove..

POR-15 and many others don't remove the rust but convert it into something. I honestly can't remember what. However, many professional automotive restoration shops swear by it. Personally, I prefer the Naval Jelly but I'm not a professional.

 

[kphill]

I have used POR-15 on the underside of my old snowplow truck as it was getting rusty from winter use and it works well for that but it is not really designed to be painted over.. You can but its not going to look very good..

 

[Stu]

I should probably have stated when noting my success with the rust oleum rusty metal primer that I do grind or sand whatever I’m painting to remove as much rust as I can. I don’t have a sandblasted tho, if I did I’d use it. Here’s a pic of the tub I did a few years back…a deeply pitted cast iron surface. I ground the crap out of it with an angle grinder and a flap wheel, but there was no way to get into all the little pits.

 

[kphill]

here is my 169 with snowthrower painted with Case Irongaurd paint... Still look good

 

[Larry Liberto]

View attachment 144314 here is my 169 with snowthrower painted with Case Irongaurd paint... Still look good

Awesome! I'd love to have a 169.

 

[kphill]

I was lucky to find it..runs great and is all original.. the snowthrower came with it and was a ball of rust.. I took it apart and took it to work where we had a very large bead blaster cabinet and took everything down to bare metal and then rebuilt it with all new bearings and a speed up pulley... It will throw snow 20 feet!...

 

[mgwin]

Stu,
What ever you do, DO NOT use Case/IH Irongard and Rustoleum rusty metal primer on the same item. They are not compatible. The Rustoleum auto primer (grey) will work fine, but not the rusty metal primer.
I tried it on some parts that were rusted and pitted. These parts were sandblasted and wiped down with a tack cloth. I also use rubber gloves in order to not get any oil from my skin on the metal. While the metal was good and clean, I applied the primer.
When I painted these parts, the paint started separating, creating a big mess.
I had to let them dry, sandblast them back down to raw metal, and start all over.
I use Irongard in the quart, and mix what I need. This paint is expensive, and I was not happy when I had to waste the paint because of the rusty metal primer.

 

[Stu]

Good to know. I’ve had a couple of traumatic experiences with incompatible paints, even lately with wall paint - don’t use sherwin Williams wallboard primer under Benjamin Moore paint! What a pain.

 

[rjruchti]

Stay with the same brand primer/pint and no worries. What one uses is who they work for and what results they want to achieve.

 

[kphill]

I have always thought that a good painting job is like building a house... You have to start with a good foundation.. I have always used automotive products to fill, prime,sand and seal and also top it off with a quality finish.. A place I worked at had a sign on the wall that said, Poor qaulity will linger long after the satisfaction of price...

 

[snicklas]

A place I worked at had a sign on the wall that said, Poor qaulity will linger long after the satisfaction of price...

That also reminds me of one that a friend of mine shared…. It was on the wall of a shop

Good, Fast and Cheap

Pick TWO

because

Good and Fast ain’t Cheep
and
Fast and Cheap ain’t Good.