Hello all, the biggest hurdle with paint is the chemical composition. Every paint manufacturer has similar products that differ slightly but you need to know what you are using from the beginning to choose what you top it with. Also you have to decide what you want for a finished product. Most aerosols are enamel or laquer. Laquer is nice and easy but it will never dry. 100 years from now you can take laquer thinner and refloat or soften it. That is why if want to make any paint last and shine you do not use laquer, it’s 50 plus year old technology. I could write pages of info on this subject as I worked in the collision industry for 27 plus years starting in the with paint that was enamel, laquer then acrylic enamel and urethane as single stage paint. After that the industry moved to base coat clear coat the last being water base and water primers with a urethane clear coat. All of this is overkill for equipment but what you want will determine the products you choose as well as where you live. I live in a salt saturated part of the world. I am surrounded by salt water putting salt in the air and salt spread on the roads in the winter. That is another consideration. Many people believe that winter’s cold is the issue when corrosion or rust tears its head. In reality it is a contributing factor but it is actually the rapid change in temperature. Salt only works when it is mildly cold but when you have -20 Celsius at night and + 5 Celsius during the day that is the culprit. Rapid change of temperature creates condensation creating that contributes to corrosion. If you live in an area where it is always hot and dry, you will get away with using basic products that would not stand up in another region. In my years working in shops I have repaired everything thing from tractors, wind tower towers, fire trucks, military surveillance test equipment to trucks highway tractors and passenger vehicles. From chevettes for those of you that remember them to Mercedes. You cannot paint them all with the same brush. The very best method that I have found in a harsh environment is media blasting followed by epoxy primer, followed by a two part urethane primer followed by paint. Now the two part urethane is only required if you need to straighten or block a panel to take out small imperfections. If you do not require that step you can go straight to paint. For equipment I have found urethane paint to be the most durable and cost effective. But that again is my experience in my climate. Personally I would not use any laquer products as someone mentioned earlier about paint shriveling and coming off. That is a laquer or enamel product reacting to a stronger more corrosive product being applied over top of it. Sometimes it’s not the paint but the reducer or thinner you use to mix the paint and there is a difference between thinner and reducer. Never wash a bare metal panel down with any solvent based product unless it is specifically designed to be used as such. Years ago they had prime wash and prep for metal but it wasn’t successful. The reason you don’t use a solvent to wash is because it leaves a residue or layer between the metal and primer you are about to apply. Do not use a rag that has a high lint or paper towel as it will leave small fibers. I hope this sheds some light on the subject. I will end here as I could continue at length but most of it would not apply.