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Por 15

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jkoenig

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Sep 14, 2002
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991
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Jim Koenig Halfway between Harvester, MO and Cadet, MO
I took my rusty tank to a custom Harley shop where they guy was really impressed with my Cub Cadet project, and he was more than happy to tumble the tank with gravel, and silver solder the pinholes that showed up. No sealer was needed in my case. This was 15 years ago or more, but it cost about $35-40, I think. That guy was also a good contact to build. He glass bead blasted my cylinder head for a few bucks as well. It looked as nice as the day he did it on the day I sold it two years later.
 

mgonitzke

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Aug 4, 2006
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4,181
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Wichita, KS
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Matt Gonitzke
A friend of mine used the tank sealer on his farm tractor and was really impressed with it.

I used POR-15 paint on the underside of my 60" deck on my 1872. I have read a lot of good things about it on here over the years, but...I can't say I was impressed by it. After one season, it was worn similarly to my 44" deck on my 782, which was painted with a Rustoleum product meant to be applied directly over rust. I won't be using that again since it works no better for me than a product that cost about 85% less for the same amount.
 

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jstorma

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Aug 21, 2004
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Jim Storma
I used it on a QA44A thrower that I had. Blasted it and used the prep kit. Holds up well on the outside, but the auger blades and inside would wear it away. I always touched up in the spring with graphite spray paint.

Also used POR-15 on my 782 rims and some on the badly rusted spots on the hood, fenders, and battery area just by sand blasting and using no prep. I use my 782 mainly for blowing snow and it sees a lot of road salt. There is some rust on the rims where the paint and POR-15 got scrapped off by a curb. The rust only seems to stay in that spot and does not creep under the coating. Still looks good 16 years later.

I think POR-15 is a great DIY product as long as you blast and use their prep and it's not in an area that product moves to wear it away.
 

kphill

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Jul 14, 2008
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456
Location
Grove City, Pa.
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Kevin Hill
I used POR-15 on the frame of my snowplow truck after much preperation and it worked well.. I have used tank sealers in motorcycle gas tanks and the problem is they peel and flake and get in the fuel filter or carb.. On a cub I would use about a measuring cup of pea gravel and shake it until it is clean inside.. If you have a paint shaker it makes the job much easier..
 

jpaulus

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Joined
Mar 9, 2008
Messages
27
Location
middleburg, florida
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jerry paulus
I took my rusty tank to a custom Harley shop where they guy was really impressed with my Cub Cadet project, and he was more than happy to tumble the tank with gravel, and silver solder the pinholes that showed up. No sealer was needed in my case. This was 15 years ago or more, but it cost about $35-40, I think. That guy was also a good contact to build. He glass bead blasted my cylinder head for a few bucks as well. It looked as nice as the day he did it on the day I sold it two years later.

Today's price would be $100
 

jdrong

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Nov 23, 2008
Messages
62
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Little Falls, MN
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Jdrong
My experience with tank sealers is that they will eventually deteriorate and flake or peel. If all you have is rusty looking sediment in your bowl, then drain the tank completely to get rid of the water that's causing the rust, flush it with some sort of solvent and dry it out with compressed air or leave it sit out in the sun with no cap on it, then blow it out again. That should get rid of the water in the tank. A little bit of surface rust on the inside will not hurt anything as long as it stays put. You still may end up with some rusty looking sediment in the bulb, that's ok, it's doing it's job and, will eventually clear up.
 

hdeloach

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Dec 4, 2018
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32
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Herbert C DeLoach
Have used it for years. Key is prep. Follow the directions exactly. The stuff is not metal so it will wear away with use under a mower deck but with touch up as needed it will definitely protect the underside of the deck.
Never used the tank sealer though.
 
Joined
May 31, 2021
Messages
39
Location
Idaho
Will be able to tell you in a few years. :) Just used Por15 on the engine, (block and metal) on my 1650 project. I followed the full process and followed up with flat black enamel (non Por15 product) on top. Impressed with the product so far and everything seemed to bond well...but time will tell.
 

stucker

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Jul 25, 2010
Messages
9
Location
NW New Jersey
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Scot Tucker
My experience with tank sealers is that they will eventually deteriorate and flake or peel. If all you have is rusty looking sediment in your bowl, then drain the tank completely to get rid of the water that's causing the rust, flush it with some sort of solvent and dry it out with compressed air or leave it sit out in the sun with no cap on it, then blow it out again. That should get rid of the water in the tank. A little bit of surface rust on the inside will not hurt anything as long as it stays put. You still may end up with some rusty looking sediment in the bulb, that's ok, it's doing it's job and, will eventually clear up.
Key to minimizing corrosion in the fuel tank, do not store or allow to sit between uses, without a full tank of fuel (gas or diesel). Winter storage, use a fuel shut off valve to protect lines and carb. Add fuel conditioner (I like the blue marine stuff), fill tank. When ready to use again, drain tank, add clean fuel, open shut off valve and all should be good. No oxygen - no rust. And yes fuel has oxygen in its composition. It’s not enough to support corrosion.
 

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