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Poor mowing

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Joined
May 12, 2020
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Hot Springs,Arkansas
I have a 149 with 44" deck which I have used for general mowing for 15 years. I keep the blades sharp and deck/belts in good shape. Everything seems to be working as intended.
My question: I have never gotten really clean cuts with this machine. I often have to go over the same area a couple times for reasonably complete cuts. I have always assumed that it just isn't that great of a mowing machine. Does anybody get really nice results with theirs? Any suggestions to improve mowing performance?
 

mgonitzke

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Matt Gonitzke
Make sure the engine is turning 3600 rpm under load at full throttle. Make sure all of the baffles are intact underneath. You say the blades are sharp, but have they been sharpened so many times the ends are narrower than the middle of the blade? This will affect cutting performance, too.
 

snicklas

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Scott Nicklas
One other thing to check, especially if you have only ever had this one Cub deck. Verify the blades are on the correct way. I've worked on many decks, over 40+ years, but a couple years ago, I pulled the blades off my 44A and sharpened them. This time, I did something I normally don't do. I took all 3 off at the same time. Normally, I pull the deck, flip it over, pull 1 blade, sharpen, replace, repeat. This time I pulled all 3, sharpened all 3 and put them back. I think I was headed out to my a property I occasionally mow, so had other things on my mind. The grass was tall, and it didn't seem to do a good job.... I just passed it off as tall grass.. (like hasn't been mowed in a few weeks, 12"+ tall). Got home, unloaded and mowed my yard. Still didn't seem to be doing the best job.... but by now I just wanted to get done. Next mowing at the house (a few days later), it still wasn't cutting correctly. So I pulled the deck again, and flipped my 50 over that was in the garage, and there it was, I had all 3 blades upside down, so instead of cutting, I was just beating the s**t out of the grass. Flipped all 3 blades and it was back to cutting well.
 
Joined
May 12, 2020
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Hot Springs,Arkansas
Well, I did go a season with the blades upside down. Yeah...didn't cut too well that year.

But that was only one year. The blades are old and have been sharpened many times and are a bit tapered. I haven't thought about that. Are new blades readily available?
 
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May 12, 2020
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Hot Springs,Arkansas
I see CCS has several blade choices for 44" decks, but mower models not listed. I don't need special blades, just similar to OEM for a 149 with standard 44" 3-blade deck. Which blade choice?
 

sgalante

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Jul 2, 2007
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Stephen Galante
You are correct in stating that there are a number of different sets of blades listed on the CCS website. A quick look at the Cub Cadet Parts lookup website seems to point to a Part # 759-3939. Again, there are at least 3 different descriptions on CCS that show that part # within their descriptions.
NOTE: One of them lists that part number but states (NOT for Pre-1981 Cub Cadets). I'm not sure what the difference is with those ones. They seem to be the same length as the others.
Personally, I would contact Digger, the owner of the CCS page, and ask his advice. He will be able to direct you to the correct blades in his inventory. He has never steered me in the wrong decision.
 

digger

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chiggerfarmer

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Feb 13, 2020
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Crawford, Texas
I need new blades for my 42" but there are nearly as many to choose from as there are flavors of ice cream. What is the difference in heat treated, tungsten carbide, or hard surface, and which seem to be the most popular?
 

kmcconaughey

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The tungsten blades are very hard to sharpen, I have a set that were on my parents 125 that I still have, so they are many decades old. Not sure if I have a set of the heat treated blades or not. I believe it is the standard blades I have on my 125 and have been using for several years and they seem to hold up well.
 

PACub100

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I need new blades for my 42" but there are nearly as many to choose from as there are flavors of ice cream. What is the difference in heat treated, tungsten carbide, or hard surface, and which seem to be the most popular?
IMO, heat treated is the way to go. - that's the field I work. Hard surface would more than likely be low alloy, cheap cased steel - think of it like a thin M&M candy shell, super hard on the outside and soft inside for impact resistance. BUT, there in lies the issue...hit a stone or something and the case, being brittle will chip / shatter. Once you get past the shallow case (shell), you're left with soft material that will wear quickly. Heat treated (especially with the blade thickness) should be the same hardness throughout, therefore when you sharpen the blades, as long as you go slow and do not heat the edge up it'll remain the same hardness each time.
 

chiggerfarmer

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I am sure my 128 has the original blades. The original owner had one of those spring loaded check books that would snap closed on his hand if he tried to spend money. I have sharpened them each mowing season since I have owned it (last 15 years or so). The blades are looking like it wouldn't take much to sharpen the ends to make daggers. Yesterday I got one of the outside ones too close to an earth biscuit, so I think I shall go ahead and replace them. I probably don't need any that are too hard to sharpen since those biscuits seem to appear out of nowhere occasionally. Thank you
 

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