• FIRST AND LAST NAMES ARE REQUIRED WHEN REGISTERING

Photo ID of this model...

IH Cub Cadet Tractor Forum

Help Support IH Cub Cadet Tractor Forum:

Todd

Well-known member
IHCC Supporter
Joined
Oct 9, 2021
Messages
206
Location
Phoenix, Az.
Can anyone give a (relatively) definitive identification of this model from a single picture?
950A1279-B58D-4C4D-BE62-01C8421CB684.jpeg


I have absolutely ZERO other information on it without going out to see it at the seller.

Any input is appreciated as to ID or known issues with the model.

Regards, Todd.
 

digger

Administrator
Staff member
Administrator
Moderator
IHCC Sponsor
IHCC Supporter
Joined
Jun 22, 2002
Messages
15,896
Location
Park Rapids Mn.
displayname
Digger
Can anyone give a (relatively) definitive identification of this model from a single picture?View attachment 149266

I have absolutely ZERO other information on it without going out to see it at the seller.

Any input is appreciated as to ID or known issues with the model.

Regards, Todd.
It could be a 127 or 147 depending on what size engine it has in it.
 

snicklas

Well-known member
Joined
Jul 1, 2007
Messages
800
Location
Greenfield, Indiana
displayname
Scott Nicklas
I see the notches in the frame for larger flywheel housing on a 14 HP… so the tractor should be a 147. I see the electric lift stuff is gone and it does not have a manual lift handle….. so best guess is it’s a 147 since I think the only 1x6/7 that had the frame “notch” was the 147….
 

spndncash

Well-known member
Joined
Jan 19, 2020
Messages
172
Location
Medina, Ohio
as mentioned the lift arm/motor/cylinder is gone, seat springs are on backwards, I think it has the wrong rear wheels - web looks odd to me and I think they are too wide for this model, rear tires are wrong size, tunnel cover looks loose does not touch the fender- maybe you can check the drive shaft integrity or maybe the body is not attached or purposely shifted back to clear the oversized tires , the dash pod/fiberglass looks in poor shape, I dont think that is the original grill -looks like expanded metal, the center cap is missing from the steering wheel-since its been sitting outside you may have to cut the steering wheel off to get it off, the motor, hydro and axle are a big unknown. if it has been sitting without a muffler or a carb/air cleaner - i would assume the engine is trash. who knows what lives in the engine if it was left open. In Ohio I would give 50-100 dollars for this.
 

Todd

Well-known member
IHCC Supporter
Joined
Oct 9, 2021
Messages
206
Location
Phoenix, Az.
I see the notches in the frame for larger flywheel housing on a 14 HP… so the tractor should be a 147. I see the electric lift stuff is gone and it does not have a manual lift handle….. so best guess is it’s a 147 since I think the only 1x6/7 that had the frame “notch” was the 147….
Thank you for the response. What would I be looking at in terms of the electric-lift bits? Are they available and at all reasonable if so?
 

Todd

Well-known member
IHCC Supporter
Joined
Oct 9, 2021
Messages
206
Location
Phoenix, Az.
as mentioned the lift arm/motor/cylinder is gone, seat springs are on backwards, I think it has the wrong rear wheels - web looks odd to me and I think they are too wide for this model, rear tires are wrong size, tunnel cover looks loose does not touch the fender- maybe you can check the drive shaft integrity or maybe the body is not attached or purposely shifted back to clear the oversized tires , the dash pod/fiberglass looks in poor shape, I dont think that is the original grill -looks like expanded metal, the center cap is missing from the steering wheel-since its been sitting outside you may have to cut the steering wheel off to get it off, the motor, hydro and axle are a big unknown. if it has been sitting without a muffler or a carb/air cleaner - i would assume the engine is trash. who knows what lives in the engine if it was left open. In Ohio I would give 50-100 dollars for this.
That is an excellent check-list.
I will hand write that out for when I go to see it. Generally, it is not *cool* enough to me to take too seriously as a project if it turns out to be a rabbit-hole of time and money but - If I can get it running and a lift system for $500 (excluding tire costs) or so I may pounce.
 

ffgosda

Member
Joined
Mar 19, 2007
Messages
15
displayname
Frank F. Gosda
There should be no shift lever in front of the seat. There is a hydro lever up near the steering wheel on the dash. There was a cover plate originally over the hole near the seat.
 

1811Cub

Well-known member
Joined
Jul 13, 2020
Messages
660
Location
Elkland, PA
The rear fender pans look very similar from this model right up to the 1989 model year tractors. Surely there are enough differences between them to make them not directly interchange, such as frame size, battery location, tailight design, etc.
 

Todd

Well-known member
IHCC Supporter
Joined
Oct 9, 2021
Messages
206
Location
Phoenix, Az.
There should be no shift lever in front of the seat. There is a hydro lever up near the steering wheel on the dash. There was a cover plate originally over the hole near the seat.
More great insight to add to my checklist. Thanks to you and the next 3 fellas amplifying your response.
 

spndncash

Well-known member
Joined
Jan 19, 2020
Messages
172
Location
Medina, Ohio
That is an excellent check-list.
I will hand write that out for when I go to see it. Generally, it is not *cool* enough to me to take too seriously as a project if it turns out to be a rabbit-hole of time and money but - If I can get it running and a lift system for $500 (excluding tire costs) or so I may pounce.
I just noticed the screen is missing from the flywheel. the engine shrouds are a wonderful home for mice and other critters. maybe take a pan and wrench to open the drain on the hydro/transaxle. it is likely water was sitting in there for some time. water/sludge will be at the bottom with oil floating on top, but since you're in Arizona it could be just fine. amazon sells borescopes for dirt cheap -you might want to invest in one - for what most people do you can get a decent one for $20-40 dollars. They make many jobs much easier or not even required since you could inspect some internals
 

Todd

Well-known member
IHCC Supporter
Joined
Oct 9, 2021
Messages
206
Location
Phoenix, Az.
I just noticed the screen is missing from the flywheel. the engine shrouds are a wonderful home for mice and other critters. maybe take a pan and wrench to open the drain on the hydro/transaxle. it is likely water was sitting in there for some time. water/sludge will be at the bottom with oil floating on top, but since you're in Arizona it could be just fine. amazon sells borescopes for dirt cheap -you might want to invest in one - for what most people do you can get a decent one for $20-40 dollars. They make many jobs much easier or not even required since you could inspect some internals
I have several versions of scopes for guns and engines but hadn't thought to bring one along to look at it. That too will go on my list. The other items on you post are valuable to me as well, thank you.
 
Top