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Parts needed for 1961 Cub Cadet hi crop build

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Brian Schopp

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I was wondering if anyone knows what parts are needed, where to find the parts to convert a 1961 Cub Cadet to a hi crop. I seen the archives on this but nothing about how to covert it and where to find the parts for the rear axle and front axle and if you need a different rim for the rear tire. If you have built one or any information please let me know.
Thanks,
Brian
 

kmcconaughey

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You likely saw Dan Hoefler's custom Hi Crop, all of those items are completely custom, there's no conversion kit or list of parts.
 

Brian Schopp

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I did see a post with changing the rear axel set up in the archives with pictures. I will try and post pictures of the front axle and back I have pictures of so it may have been a different person. Thanks for the response back.
 

John DeBree

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I built a Model 70 Hi-Crop. It's currently apart for painting. I used rear wheels and tires from an IH Cub. I made wheel adapters to space the wheels out a bit. I also made a bracket to mount Cub rear fenders. For the front end, I fabricated a custom front end. I also used Cub front wheels and tires. Mine has a creeper drive, as the tall tires are FAST.
IMG_20200803_125951541_BURST000_COVER.jpg
 

rrschmitt

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The final drive boxes in the picts above are from a Farmall Cub. They will bolt up to your transmission case since the Cub Cadet transmissions were based on the Farmall Cub.
 

JPrattico

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Each method shown above has its advantages and disadvantages.

The advantage of using Farmall Cub final drives is that they bolt right up, and you can use the stock Cub Cadet rear wheels. The disadvantages are you have to rotate the differential 180 degrees so that the unit still drives forward in 1st 2nd and 3rd instead of going backward, because the final drives reverse the output. They also have a gear reduction that would result in the machine being a lot slower.

The advantage of using Farmall Cub rear wheels and some spacers is that you don't have to worry about opening the transmission. You don't need to rotate the diff, and you don't need to remove the axle tubes. A disadvantage is that those large wheels will provide lots of speed. Which could be good, but also not good. Another disadvantage of it is you will also need larger front wheels to match with the larger rear wheels.

Either route you go, both will require some sort of modified front axle and spindles. Both will also require parts from a Cub, which as stated above, can be found at a tractor junkyard. IF I were to build one I like the idea of using the Cub wheels, because I think it looks more like a true tractor. Plus it seems you can use Cub shell fenders too. I also like the idea of it being faster, particularly as a machine I could putt around on easily. But would have to be cautious so that it doesn't tip over.
 

lbuttke

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Lonny Buttke
Each method shown above has its advantages and disadvantages.

The advantage of using Farmall Cub final drives is that they bolt right up, and you can use the stock Cub Cadet rear wheels. The disadvantages are you have to rotate the differential 180 degrees so that the unit still drives forward in 1st 2nd and 3rd instead of going backward, because the final drives reverse the output. They also have a gear reduction that would result in the machine being a lot slower.

The advantage of using Farmall Cub rear wheels and some spacers is that you don't have to worry about opening the transmission. You don't need to rotate the diff, and you don't need to remove the axle tubes. A disadvantage is that those large wheels will provide lots of speed. Which could be good, but also not good. Another disadvantage of it is you will also need larger front wheels to match with the larger rear wheels.

Either route you go, both will require some sort of modified front axle and spindles. Both will also require parts from a Cub, which as stated above, can be found at a tractor junkyard. IF I were to build one I like the idea of using the Cub wheels, because I think it looks more like a true tractor. Plus it seems you can use Cub shell fenders too. I also like the idea of it being faster, particularly as a machine I could putt around on easily. But would have to be cautious so that it doesn't tip over.
Yeah!
I built my own version of a hi crop a few years back and top speed was 12mph. The tractor was very unstable on uneven ground, on paved roads ok until you needed to turn, had to slow way down.
These cub cadets just where not ment to go fast or sit higher than factory without wideing front and back axles.
 

John DeBree

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Yeah, it is a little dicey between the added height and speed. I made 2" thick wheel adapters/spacers for the rear wheels. The Cub wheels take a larger lug bolt, although the smaller CC ones will work. The adapters take care of that, plus add a little width. The custom front end I made is wider as well. The creeper drive brings the speed back down within reason, but they're getting scarce and expensive. It was easy to mount the Cub rear fenders. I welded a mounting plate on each end of a piece of channel iron, and it bolts on with the seat spring mounting bolts. At any rate, it's definitely a toy. It occurred to me that it wouldn't take me all that long to convert it back to a regular Model 70 for when I have work to do around my place. I would do the Hi-Crop conversion to bring to tractor shows.
 

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