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Parts for rebuilding the steering column on 100

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cub1961

Well-known member
Joined
Feb 5, 2022
Messages
199
So i still wasn't happy with the steering on my 100 refurb after doing all the tierod ends and roll pin in the steering knuckle. still seems a little too tight and a little too sloppy. i could live with it but while i had the deck off i decided to pull the column and see what a rebuild entails using the service manual. after cleaning up all the grease, i found that the thrust bearing retainers are plastic and would not retain the bearings and i was missing 4 of the bearings. no idea where they went so this must have been messed with in the past. so i am going to send charlie some money for the Cub Cadet Ross Steering Column Repair Kit which includes both bearing sets and the Steering Column Ball Bearing that replaces the cheesy plastic bushing as well as the foam Steering retainer seal he has listed on ccspecialities.

my question pertains to the steering gear follower stud. the one i have has a little bit of flattening on two sides. not sure if you can see it but see pic below. Is it worth the 30 bucks to replace it? the steering column grooves look fine. this refurb has already overshot the budget by almost as much as i paid for the tractor with "might as wells" but if this is not going to do much for me, i'd rather not spend any more.

thanks as always
 

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So i still wasn't happy with the steering on my 100 refurb after doing all the tierod ends and roll pin in the steering knuckle. still seems a little too tight and a little too sloppy. i could live with it but while i had the deck off i decided to pull the column and see what a rebuild entails using the service manual. after cleaning up all the grease, i found that the thrust bearing retainers are plastic and would not retain the bearings and i was missing 4 of the bearings. no idea where they went so this must have been messed with in the past. so i am going to send charlie some money for the Cub Cadet Ross Steering Column Repair Kit which includes both bearing sets and the Steering Column Ball Bearing that replaces the cheesy plastic bushing as well as the foam Steering retainer seal he has listed on ccspecialities.

my question pertains to the steering gear follower stud. the one i have has a little bit of flattening on two sides. not sure if you can see it but see pic below. Is it worth the 30 bucks to replace it? the steering column grooves look fine. this refurb has already overshot the budget by almost as much as i paid for the tractor with "might as wells" but if this is not going to do much for me, i'd rather not spend any more.

thanks as always
That one is shot and wore plum out.
 
Turn it 90* (1/4 turn) from what it is now and reinstall.
If still loose, turn 180* and check again.
Always be sure either one of the 2 flat sides are the ones touching the worm gear.
Most of the wear will be in the middle of the worm so if you turn it too far, it will become too tight.
You just have to arrive at a happy midway medium in the center of the action.
 
That one is shot and wore plum out.

so you're saying this is another one of those might-as-wells charlie? you sure you're not just trying to buy a new car on my refurb? lol.

thanks, expect an order today or tomorrow.
 
Turn it 90* (1/4 turn) from what it is now and reinstall.
If still loose, turn 180* and check again.
Always be sure either one of the 2 flat sides are the ones touching the worm gear.
Most of the wear will be in the middle of the worm so if you turn it too far, it will become too tight.
You just have to arrive at a happy midway medium in the center of the action.
Did ya look at the pic David? :errrr:
1675098447819.png
 
I'd replace that pin. Odds are if you try to adjust it, it will bind, assuming that it was adjusted properly when it was new and then allowed to wear to that extent.

All of those I have rebuilt lately I have replaced the original pin with a new one made from a Grade 8 bolt. In my opinion, having both the pin and the surface of the worm very hard wasn't a great design, and the hard outer layer of the worm gets damaged and spalls. If you have a lathe or know someone with one, a new pin is a 15-minute job. It can also be done with a hacksaw, file, and drill press and a bit more time. This will be softer than the original and will have to be replaced more frequently, but will damage the worm less.

Note: The picture I have included is of the follower from a newer version of the steering box, and it is slightly different (more complex) than the one in a 100.
PXL_20210119_225845305.jpg
 
charlie, is it the top one or the bottom one on your site? looks more like the bottom one to me but i want to make sure. they both say model 100
 

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charlie, is it the top one or the bottom one on your site? looks more like the bottom one to me but i want to make sure. they both say model 100
Either one will work just fine. One is just longer than the other and both are hardened to last as long or longer than OEM.
 
i got everything back together and now i need to adjust the steering so that it turns equally left and right. the owners manual talks about toe in but i didn’t see anything about this. before i muck around too much can someone give the cliff notes?
 
Sounds like you need to make sure your follower in installed at mid point in the worm gear when assembling. You will get equal left /right movement when you do this.
 
Sounds like you need to make sure your follower in installed at mid point in the worm gear when assembling. You will get equal left /right movement when you do this.
No. It won't matter how you position the cam plate when you install the follower.

Drag link length is how the left/right bias is adjusted.
 
It seems like there should be a FAQ on this.
 
i looked in mine and didn’t see how to adjust that. i just saw the toe in adjust.
 
It's in the operator's manual on page 16, listed under "turning radius". :bluethumbsup:
ah yes, i see it now. i was looking in the wrong manual. thanks for the pointer. i will try it this weekend and update this thread.
 
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