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Off-topic mower blade option question

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rfunk

Well-known member
Joined
Jun 14, 2019
Messages
172
Location
Winkler, Manitoba, Canada
displayname
Reynold Funk
My yard has one stretch "downhill" from a former pig barn. Really lush even when the rest of the yard is dry. Always wants to clump up, even if I mow first with the deck raised, then again with it lowered. (149 with 50" cutting width deck) I will need to replace my blades either this season or next. Wondering if anyone here has 1) seen, or 2) used something called a Meg-Mo. Basically, it replaces the blades with a disk and free-swinging blades, (4 edges per disk), effectively like a bush-mower. Looking for opinions and/or experiences with anything similar, especially used with our older design non-high-airflow decks. The original, thick blades do stand up to a lot of use and abuse. Can something like this? Thanks.
 
My tractor show buddy bought Meg-Mow blades for his Compact utility tractor with a 72 inch 3-blade deck. He went back to factory blades. Gator Blades makes a blade for the 44", 50", and 60" decks, they chop up the clippings so they effectively disappear. Many guys here use them.
 
Oregon quit making Gator blades for the 44a/c decks. I don't know about the other sizes. They make them for 44 Z-force decks but they are 16" long and would need to be shortened to 15 1/8.
 
Ok, so it sounds like Dennis' buddy was less than impressed with the Meg-Mow blades. I think the blades on my (50" cutting width, not sure of model) are, perhaps the Gator blades, they have the three notches cut in the wing of the blades. Just over 17" diameter, 0.75" hole, but well-worn by now. Not much left of the flat surface in front of the wing.
Thanks for your input, guys. I may just have to create a pickup system for those areas I have that are always so lush. I do have a 48" tow-behind sweeper, but that loads up so fast, and is a pain to empty.
 
I put Cub mulching blades on my Tank this season. I can see a difference in the distribution of the discharge. I think zero turns generally do better on tall grass becauce of the blade speed. I always get caught in the spring unable to mow due to water, then when it finally dries out it's 6 or 8 inches tall. I go really slow in the tallest parts and I have no windrows.
 
It's been my problem this Spring that mowing time is when the grass is tall, between all the rainy days so far. I've been getting a lot of "holidays" in the tall stuff and constantly have to go reeeel slow or mow it twice. The blades are Oregon brand and are 14 3/4-7/8 long. I'm wondering if that's one reason for all the skippers/holidays in tall grass. I've ordered some 15 1/8" from CCSpec., hoping they make a better cut.
 
I figured I cut my grass about 35 times a season, it's about a two hour task. There are probably only about 5 mowings that I'm cutting grass that 's not too tall, grass that is about to take possession of my mower or moving into August grass that is brown and crunchy. But it looks good for those five mowings! And every year there is another arch enemy, last year it was Army worms. That wiped out about 85% of my lawn. They were the best of times, they were the worst of times...I just keep reminding myself, it's just grass.
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Bought a set of oregon blades for my SCAG. They wore out in about three years. Bought a set of gator style "marbain" blades and put a discharge cover on. Works great. Have used them for one year, and see little to no wear!
 
MARTY - MY SON thanks you for running a SKAG, He's Quality Manager at the SKAG plant where they are ALL built. He's really not a fan of me mowing with my LZ-54 Cub Cadet TANK but it's been 100% trouble free for SEVEN years, change oil & filter once a year, grease every 3-4 mowing, gas it up and mow.
Also, I interviewed years ago at a company in town, Tempurature Systems Technology Engineered Coatings, they made a mower blade similar to a Gator blade for an OEM, I don't know who that was, but I know it's one WHALE of a good blade, they also make internal rotor parts for Case-IH used on rotary combines, and they also make lots of special cutting tools for the oscillating vibrating cutting tools that have become so popular. This company is a spin-off of the University of Wisconsin in Madison, WI, I interviewed for their stamping buyer, they had a captive stamping supplier 20 miles away, owned by their parent company.
The factory installed blades on my Zero turn were amazing how long they lasted, THREE YEARS mowing my 2.3 acres 39 times before I started seeing cut quality deteriorating and sharpened them. I bought a spare set of OEM blades this spring, the OEM blades run fine 2 years on a sharpening. IH used to advertise they made blades from #5140 grade steel, which they quenched & tempered, and they didn't last ANYTHING like these zero turn blades.
I think it might have been the 44" deck on my #129 I never sharpened very often either, never replaced them either, but the blades on my 38" decks Even the hard coated blades I'd have to sharpen every 2-3 mowing. The 50C deck on the 982 I ran the nearly new blades with only a sharpening or two till I stopped using it, I DID find the new set of blades I bought for it back in 2005 I think. I did make a "Special" set of blades for my 38" decks for use with the vacuum system, I welded 3" lengths of 3/4" angle iron to the back edge of the wings on all 3 blades so they REALLY tossed the clippings and moved WAY more air, they pulled hard too, the 10 hp Kohler barely ran the mower unless the vac unit was hooked up and running.
 
I figured I cut my grass about 35 times a season, it's about a two hour task. There are probably only about 5 mowings that I'm cutting grass that 's not too tall, grass that is about to take possession of my mower or moving into August grass that is brown and crunchy. But it looks good for those five mowings! And every year there is another arch enemy, last year it was Army worms. That wiped out about 85% of my lawn. They were the best of times, they were the worst of times...I just keep reminding myself, it's just grass.
Hey, only two hours?:)
 
I see that mode more and more when people are mowing. Beating the crap out of their equipment and then complain that the mower is junk. That is not only with ZTR's either. Got to get the grass mowed so they can get to the golf course.
 
Dennis,
SKAG? Don't let your son see that! :errrr:
My SCAG has 17 trouble free years and counting! :bluethumbsup:
 
While talking blades, are there alternatives to the factory blades on the QA-44A deck? I was looking earlier at 15" blades with a little more lift but all I can find are factory replacements or others with 1/2" center hole. Thought about getting something and punching the hole out to 3/4"...🤔
 
Good Morning all. Been reading the posts on blades. Last year I bought a set of factory blades for my 50" deck. At $75 each. The lift is nearly gone and the front cutting edge needed a bad sharpening. The blades are suppose to be hardened, to hold up. My lawn has a lot of sand under it which causes the problem. I read with interest of the variety of blades available. I have searched the internet for blades but generally come up empty. If you have a good site with good blades, I would be most appreciative to take a look.
Thanks
Al
 
are there alternatives to the factory blades on the QA-44A deck?

I don't think there are. I've been looking for days and what I've seen is either too long, star hole, or small hole. There are supposedly aggressive types for dealing with terrain and long grass, but not in the 15" size for the 44" deck. These decks seem well designed for lawns and leave a superb look, but not so much for how should I say, semi-improved areas such as our orchard area. Tall grass needs re-cuts no matter how slow I go, and those 3 ft. dandelions resist and just fold over to pop up as if to say "I will resist". This Spring has been a challenge with more than normal rain days, warm temps, and other work in the que. I fancy the idea of figuring a brush hog to hitch in the rear with the gear drive for the tiller.
 
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