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What do you guys think about the pictures. It does seem in good shape, it is all there, and I wanted a year drive for the steep hills I have around my cabin. I thought it might be better to pull a trailer with fire wood etc. Is this not the case compared to belt driven.
 
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This is my first post, I am looking to buy a late 1976 cub IH 1200, it is sitting in a dealer back lot and looks like it was on trade. The unit has I a mower deck around 38 everything seems to be there and not in bad shape. The unit is not running and he asking 600 as is but he claims it ran 6 month ago. I been looking for a old school tractor with a Real gear box for my cabin up in my star woods. I tried to hook up a jump pack to crank engine over but I not sure what safeties are stop from crank. I had clutch locked down all the way, it was in neutral, but I admit I not know what I doing with it. Any help or input be great. I not a new to tractor as I just got done restore my 1970 ford 4000 su.
If you just want to start it, jump the starter directly. Make sure it's in neutral, has oil, deck is disengaged and key on. It should turn over. Put a little gas in the spark plug to see if it pops off. Might to have to do the plug / gas several times to get to run. If it does fire, but not run you have fuel / carb issues.
 
Is this not the case compared to belt driven.

???!!!!???!!! Belt driven?! What is that?

1200 is gear drive via driveshaft to the transmission, 1250 would be hydrostatic via driveshaft to the pump.

I think you have a case of Yellow Fever and will end up with some Cub Cadet very soon.

That 1200 does look pretty nice. Good luck with your affliction.
 
All the above post offer some good guidence in price and trying to start it, but I see the starter looks like it has been hit with a hammer...
 
???!!!!???!!! Belt driven?! What is that?

1200 is gear drive via driveshaft to the transmission, 1250 would be hydrostatic via driveshaft to the pump.

I think you have a case of Yellow Fever and will end up with some Cub Cadet very soon.

That 1200 does look pretty nice. Good luck with your affliction.
I have an older Murrey small mower to cut my field, It has no brakes, not sure of hydro but I think just belt driven like I mentioned in past post. My comment is it is dangerous in the hills, not ever ment for a rocky dirt road lol. This cub will replace it. And my ford full size will also be up there soon.
 
Lewis has "hit" on something. :roflol: Looks like more than once! Looks like it will need a new starter.
I also see someone has sprayed some yellow and black to cover up rust. From the looks of the modified and faded dash, it has been sitting outside a lot.
If the dealer is not willing to help you, he may be hiding some serious issues. In my opinion, a better deal will come along. Just be patient.
I got in a hurry to buy my first cub. It ran and looked ok, but after closer inspection I knew it needed more TLC. About $1800.00 bucks later, with me doing all the work, I had it in good shape.
 
The ignition switch is on in one photo too. It’s never good to leave those on when not running. We just had a thread that discussed that.
 
Jim,
You are correct, but it doesn't really matter if the battery is graveyard dead or missing. :errrr: Stephen said the gas smelled old, so I would say the battery is gone too.
I mistakenly left my switch on a couple of times (ran the gas out of carb until it cut off). Don't take too many of those mistakes to remember the next time to turn it off!
I can almost guarantee that dealer will not offer to buy a new $30 battery for it either. I get turned off real quick if a dealer or person act like they don't have time to help/deal with me.
 
Put that little rubber sleeve back on around the spark plug also
Don't loose it.
That's a 44" deck.
You can spend a lot of money on there as well if it needs very much attention
Wiggle the drive shaft if you can and check for slop and wear in the throw out bearing, lever and couplers front and rear as well as broken teaser and main spring.
Operate the clutch through it's range of travel and watch/listen for strange noises which might indicate problems.
 
David,
That reminds me. The $1800 I spent was just on the tractor. The deck hasn't been touched. It is still sitting in the building. I had to replace almost everything on the driveline to get mine in good shape. The cost of parts has risen a lot since I did mine too.

Stephen,
Since you will probably be spending a lot of money getting the 1200 in good shape, just wait until a 70/100 comes along and refurbish/fix it up. Then you will have a collector's item too! ;)
 
I would offer him $250 and go no higher than $300 if he wanted to go back and forth.. The fact that it doesn't run and he is a dealer tells me that it needs a few things or he would get it running and get more out of it...
 
I would offer him $250 and go no higher than $300 if he wanted to go back and forth.. The fact that it doesn't run and he is a dealer tells me that it needs a few things or he would get it running and get more out of it...
He started out Tell me he so busy and would take few weeks to get it running, he mention new fuel etc. This is when he said he had it running 6 month ago. The running price was 700.00 so I asked how about as is it stands now, I offer 500, his comment he had to get more out of it and said 600.00 seems high not knowing if it runs
 
Check facebook marketplace.. Although it is a good project tractor, the price is just way too high.. I think you can find a tractor as good that runs for less money.. I bought a 169 that runs great and came with wheel weights a good 44A deck, front blade and a 36 inch snowthrower for $900.. Sometimes it pays to shop around.
 
My opinion....The dealer smells a buyer...He is a salesman..He is jerking your chain about getting it running.....You still don't know if it will turn over or has compression......$300. max or walk away (after the engine turns over and not before)
 
My opinion....The dealer smells a buyer...He is a salesman..He is jerking your chain about getting it running.....You still don't know if it will turn over or has compression......$300. max or walk away (after the engine turns over and not before)
Exactly.
You seem to have your heart set on this one. Everything is starting to smell fishy. I'd walk.

Why do you need a gear drive? You can get a 1250, 1450 or 1650 of the same style with hydro and be fine. PLUS you have super slow mo mode for steep or dicey situations. Don't underestimate the hydros. They're just as good as the gear drives. I have both and prefer my hydro.
Go on FB marketplace and search for "cub". I bet you find one that runs for as much or less than this dealer is asking for this 1200...👍👍
 
A hydro is just the ticket for mowing duty.
You can run WOT and still go slow w/o a lot of fooling around.
A GD is my go to for dirt work such as mold board plowing or cultivating.
For snow plow work, it's a toss up, not really if you have a hydraulic angle blate setup though!! :greenthumb:
 
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