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Newbe Question

IH Cub Cadet Tractor Forum

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Stephen Wattley

Well-known member
Joined
May 27, 2021
Messages
85
Location
new jersey
This is my first post, I am looking to buy a late 1976 cub IH 1200, it is sitting in a dealer back lot and looks like it was on trade. The unit has I a mower deck around 38 everything seems to be there and not in bad shape. The unit is not running and he asking 600 as is but he claims it ran 6 month ago. I been looking for a old school tractor with a Real gear box for my cabin up in my star woods. I tried to hook up a jump pack to crank engine over but I not sure what safeties are stop from crank. I had clutch locked down all the way, it was in neutral, but I admit I not know what I doing with it. Any help or input be great. I not a new to tractor as I just got done restore my 1970 ford 4000 su.
 
Welcome Stephen!
$600 for a “ran when parked” tractor might be a bit steep unless it looks quite good, and you are not afraid to rebuild an engine for the price. -and I’m cheap.

I’m not sure where all of the 1200 safety switches are, but I would try the seat, the brake, and the PTO. Was the PTO disengaged?

More help will be along shortly.
 
Welcome to the forum...

On a gear drive, which the 1200 is, should the clutch and the PTO switch. If you go try it again... wiggle the PTO switch on the dash while you have the key in the start position. Being outside makes that switch unhappy..... even on my garage kept units... I have to wiggle mine on occasion to get them to start.
 
I recently brought home a carport-kept 782, and I had to clean all of the starting circuit connections to get it to crank reliably.
 
Welcome to the forum...

On a gear drive, which the 1200 is, should the clutch and the PTO switch. If you go try it again... wiggle the PTO switch on the dash while you have the key in the start position. Being outside makes that switch unhappy..... even on my garage kept units... I have to wiggle mine on occasion to get them to start.
I noticed the switch is seized, can not even move. But the seat was up? Was there a switch for the seat.
 
I don’t see a seat switch on Roland’s fancy colored wiring diagram for the 1200. One safety switch that’s prolly the clutch/brake.

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I would make sure the engine would turn over by hand before worrying about switches. kinda hard to check switches in a dealer's lot.

However, you can take out the dipstick and check the level. look at the color of the oil. If it is green/clear looking, it has just been changed. Not a good sign. May be covering up a problem. If it is dark and smells burnt, you may have a bad motor also.
You should hope to see dark oil that smells like oil.
 
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Steve, jumper cables... positive on starter post.... neg on good ground.if it doesn't crank starter is bad or engine is locked up.....if it cranks make it short or old fuel and other crud will be sucked into carb. You don't want to try to start it before fuel system is cleaned....If it sat for 6 mos.. in my op dealer is pushing you
 
I would be willing to bet the dealer has already tried that. :errrr:
Take the cap off the gas tank and smell the gas, if there's any in it. If it smells "sweet", the gas is bad. If it smells ok, it probably is.
 
A cub that won't start or crank
$300 tops unless there are options such as thrower, 3 point, sleeve hitch etc.
Does the clutch engage and dis-engage smoothly?
Could be a money pit.
Ya gotta love em.
Good luck
 
Thought i'd throw my 2¢ in. My 1200 had safety switch under the seat, also one for the clutch. The pto safety was manuall controlled via dash switch. Good luck whstever you decide..
 
Never seen a QL with a seat safety switch.
IIRC, Wiring schematic don't include a breakout for one, only the clutch/brake pedal switch.
I suppose a PO may have added one somehow
Problem could even be the starter switch or solenoid.
Will need a test light and some diagnosis for sure.
Ask the dealer what it would take to get it running,
For $600 it should be a serviceable unit, clean and ready to drive away and mow with.
My 1st Cub , a 1000, was like that and I still use it.
 
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If that's the one you used for your profile pic, it looks decent and the deck looks good too. Does it have the side shields or no? If not, you're gonna want them. Tell the dealer $600 running with, carb cleaned, oil and gas changed new belts and everything greased. Other than that, I agree...$250-300 tops as it sits.
 
I noticed the switch is seized, can not even move


Hey guys, does the 1200 have the pull-on-the-lever PTO switch? My 782 has a lock feature. The lever interlocks with the base and it is spring loaded to mate with the base. Pull on the lever sleeve, and you can move the lever to the engage position.
 
If that dealer wants to make a 600 dollars,he really has to step up to the plate.I'd hand him 300,and drag it out of there,after turning engine over with socket on S/G.
 
Pull the switch out a bit then push up to lock it on.
For $300, I could still, depending on what all needs attention, see dropping $200-$500 more in it to make everything right and reliable.

Gear drives need a bit more TLC and adjustments, not to mention pricy parts than Hydros.
 
I would make sure the engine would turn over by hand before worrying about switches. kinda hard to check switches in a dealer's lot.

However, you can take out the dipstick and check the level. look at the color of the oil. If it is green/clear looking, it has just been changed. Not a good sign. May be covering up a problem. If it is dark and smells burnt, you may have a bad motor also.
You should hope to see dark oil that smells like oil.
First thing I did was smell the oil looks normal
 
I would be willing to bet the dealer has already tried that. :errrr:
Take the cap off the gas tank and smell the gas, if there's any in it. If it smells "sweet", the gas is bad. If it smells ok, it probably is.
Gas did not smell varnish smell but did smell little old. I asked if I could dump fuel and refuel but he claims to be so busy
 
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