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New to me "sad" 782, so I will need lots of help here

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jkoenig

In Remembrance 2023
Joined
Sep 14, 2002
Messages
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Jim Koenig Halfway between Harvester, MO and Cadet, MO
I just brought home my first Cub Cadet in about 15 years, a 782 that was described by the seller as "sad". It definitely needs some TLC. A P.O. let two motor mount bolts disappear, and the engine must have gotten so squirrely that the driveshaft worried and wobbled itself right out of the tractor.

I would like to know if these metal "bushings" are the motor mounts on an 82 series, or are they all that is left of something larger? If these are correct, what are they called so I can acquire two more, and which end is up? One is rounded (worn or intended?), the other flat.


Motor mounts.jpg

Thank you.
 
Thanks Kraig!

And uhoh! You just showed me that I am missing a shroud piece, Item 3. Does anybody know how critical that piece is?
 
A few observations, and things I (think I) know so far:
and some of them only lead to more questions.

-The KT17 shroud and air filter claim to be Series 2.
-The Spec. is 24302, but is that just the shroud, or actually the engine?
-There is no oil filter.
-One cylinder is slightly egg-shaped, but it has a std piston, and valve clearances of 6 and 11.
-There seems to be an oil leak at a case joint that does not look like fun to correct.
-The hydraulic lift valve may be frozen. It looks like a P.O. may have tried too hard to move the lever, and forced it out of one end of its mount, leading me to think the valve did not cooperate.
-The fender pan has an IH label on it, not a CCC...does the serial number back that up?
-I.D. tags are easier to decipher when they are not monochromatic:
782 I.D. tag.landscape.jpg

I give up! I tried three times to get that photo to roll over on its side.
 
Those spacers aren't really anything special- 1/2" long 3/8" ID x 5/8" or 3/4" OD heavy wall steel bushings/spacers from your local ACE or similar good hardware store will work. The original spacers are like 0.469" tall or something like that. 0.5" will be close enough as long as you get four new ones.

24302 should be a series II. There should be provision for an oil filter (blockoff plate held on with a couple of allen head bolts forward of the RH cylinder). If that is there it is a series II. Also, if the oil fill cap is a plastic cap and not a pipe plug, it is probably a series II.

Hydraulic lift control valve should be easy to free up. Squirt some Kroil or PB blaster into the part that moves, and try tapping it back and forth with a hammer. Eventually it should move. Problem is likely dry O-rings that seal the unit.

Tractor has obviously been repainted. Serial number is below 719,999 but tractor was originally yellow based on the paint chip next to the data tag, so it will have mostly IH parts but be assembled by MTD. Who knows what a previous owner did with decals based on the paint job, but I have also seen some goofy things with decals in that transition period before MTD was fully producing all of the parts.
 
Thanks for all the help.
The trick with the photo is to edit it on a computer ( like crop it a little ) save it and use the new pic,

I tried cropping the photo, but must not have gotten it right.

What story do you guys think the plugs are telling? The one on the right does not look right to me. I don't think I have ever seen one look like that before. Just black. Not fluffy, not wet. Made me wonder if that cylinder was firing-which is why that head came off. The one on the left has more tan than the photo lets on. Yes gaps are different. Yes both were broken by the anxious disassembler.
Two plugs as received.jpg
 
Arthur Champion would be proud. I personally change most things over to autolite as I don't run my big tractors often enough or hard enough.
 
Unlike many here . I re-read this post. It reads like you have the engine apart. Those plugs look ok and might look better when replaced and put some decent time on the engine to read the plugs. .
 
That's a very good point Brian. I have no idea how long those plugs have run, or under what conditions. The P.O. removed the engine to transplant it into something else, but changed his mind and sold both tractors. He claimed my KT17 ran for him, probably about 6 weeks ago. The owner before that let the motor mounts work loose, and they in turn let the driveshaft get away. I took it apart today because I couldn't help myself. I plan to see how it runs this weekend, then address issues in order of importance with a more educated view of those issues.
 
Matt,

Thanks for your reply. Is there a filter connection behind that block off plate?

Hydraulic valve was soaking in PB before I posted the thread at all. I'm familiar with Kroil, but have yet to see it for sale anywhere I go.
 
The oil filter adapter and remove versions were both options. To add the oil filter, the blockoff plate is replaced with another part to add the oil filter.

Here's an image from the parts lookup for a later machine that had the remote oil filter (1811):

OilFilterAdapter.png
 
The lower heat shroud helps support the upper shroud to keep it from fatigue cracking the sheet metal. It also helps direct the heated cooling air out the front grill.
 
Great progress today with all of your help! I settled on nuts for .496" +/- spacers for now. I noticed that one pair of the old ones had dug into the mounting ears on the block, and I wanted the larger diameter to keep them all even. I plan to remove the engine again for refurboration, and will try to get the engine elevated more accurately when it goes back in. What a pain that engine is to mount! I never thought I would miss my 126. Removing the firewall helped some, but it was still a pain.

It wouldn't budge at first, but I had just read the thread about the dead 582, and went through the safety switches that someone had called out there, and once the charger pack charged up, and I had jumped the seat safety, and connected the electric PTO, it cranked right away, then I ran a fuel line from a gas can to make sure it got fresh gas, and dribbled a bit into the carb throat. A few cranks, and she lit.

It runs pretty well. Now if I only had that driveshaft that escaped two owners ago...and the engine tin, and, and, and...

Thanks again for the help so far!
 
I thought I made major progress Saturday. I picked up most of my needs. I got the complete driveshaft, rag joints, hydro coupler, tunnel cover, a steering column/box, the mower PTO, a mower deck, and a mule drive. When I was fitting the driveshaft, I noticed the hydro filter had a gash in it probably from when the driveshaft escaped. I guess the Hytran change has been moved up a bit, and the maiden voyage has been pushed back. Gotta go order from Digger.
 
0FB7463F-088D-4B75-8589-9AE5CD431798.jpeg


Does anyone else still on here have one of these? I just had to dig this out to use it for the first time. It will take some of you way back, and leave others scratching your heads. And possibly others kicking yourselves for not buying one when they were offered.
 
I have one that I have used, they work great. Ken and I have stayed in contact. He keeps in contact with Digger and a few other forum members as well.
 
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