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New to me Cub 1200 with some issues.

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dschwandt

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David Schwandt
I believe the reason the flex plates crack and fail is related to the ISO mounts mushing out and throwing the whole drive train out of alignment. There has to be some flex somewhere on that end of the engine simply BECAUSE the engine is mount IS sandwiched between two rubber mounts.
 

dschwandt

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You have wear in the clutch hanger, the bracket that holds it and the pin that goes through both of them.
Think about it, there are only 4 small thin bearing points (the thickness of these parts) for that pin to ride on, that is where all the slop is coming from.

I can see in the video the wear on the pin.
 
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JPrattico

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It kinda looks like the solid mounts were shoved over top of what was left of the original rubber ones. I would definitely remove the solid ones and replace with new rubber ones. Make sure there's no remains of any old rubber mounts either, the extra material can throw off the balance.
 

digger

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It kinda looks like the solid mounts were shoved over top of what was left of the original rubber ones. I would definitely remove the solid ones and replace with new rubber ones. Make sure there's no remains of any old rubber mounts either, the extra material can throw off the balance.
Balance?
 

JPrattico

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oops! I more meant that it would keep the engine from sitting level on the mounts.
 

hydroharry

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You have wear in the clutch hanger, the bracket that holds it and the pin that goes through both of them.
Think about it, there are only 4 small thin bearing points (the thickness of these parts) for that pin to ride on, that is where all the slop is coming from.

I can see in the video the wear on the pin.
David - I'm not seeing the wear on the pin. It just looks a little shinny where it rides in the slot. Might even be brand new since there is no rust (and this tractor is in Ohio which as far as I know is still known as the rust belt :)

Mark - looking at the new video I will say none of the parts appear rusty so they must be replacement parts, and the clutch may well have been rebuilt. The whole problem may well be with the ISO-mounts. Someone has tightened the nuts down so tight it's almost certainly out of alignment. You definitely need to get new mounts, and if I recall correctly those nylock nuts should only be tightened about 3 full turns to get the correct torque spec.
 

mfrade

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I think I would certainly check that hinge pin and the lever for wear, but as long as the lever isn't sliding over so far as to lay on the bearing at a bad angle and rubbing on the sides of the throw out bearing, I wouldn't worry to much bout it. The lever has to have some freedom (play) to move. Just verify that when the clutch peddle is fully depressed the lever is centered on the bearing.

My 2 cents.
 

Mark Leaming

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It will get tore down this week. My friend picked it up today he has been a cub collector and puller for 40+ years. He said those were not engine mounts they were some sort of spacers. The teaser spring and throw out bearing is shot. He said the engine is setting 1/4-1/2” too low. I know it’s in good hands, better than mine lol. Thanks to all that have posted and gave input.
 

belliott

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I went through the clutch on my 1000 a few years ago and encountered a similar challenge as you are facing. I ended up replacing everything between the engine and transmission. I cost me plenty but I don't regret it. The clutch is smooth as silk and reliable. When you do it right you only cry once.
 

Mark Leaming

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I went through the clutch on my 1000 a few years ago and encountered a similar challenge as you are facing. I ended up replacing everything between the engine and transmission. I cost me plenty but I don't regret it. The clutch is smooth as silk and reliable. When you do it right you only cry once.
That is probably what is going to happen with this one as well. Previous owner flat lied about everything being perfect on it. After I discovered what all was wrong with it he avoided me like the plague.
 

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