New to me Cub 1200 with some issues.

[Mark Leaming]

Hello,
I just bought a Cub 1200 yesterday. It was supposed to be in perfect shape, but it’s not. It needs a new starter Solenoid and the carb needs cleaned or rebuilt. I drove it to my garage in 2nd I didn’t notice any real issues. Later I went to put it in the shed and it would hardly move in 3rd finally it took off. The guy I bought it from said it had a new clutch.

I tried to adjust it, but the adjustment nut is backed out all the way. I sent a video and pictures to Cub specialties. He informed me I need a new driveshaft and throw out bearing. I’m probably going to also replace the disk, pressure plates and teaser spring. I assume I will have to take the Engine out? Any other advice would be greatly appreciated! That spring looks intimidating!
Check out the YouTube video.
Thanks
Mark

 

[Mark Leaming]

https://www.ihcubcadet.com/threads/new-to-me-cub-1200-with-some-issues.8621/

 

[hydroharry]

Mark - can't get the video to play but sure is a nice looking 1200 in the pic you posted. To bad about the clutch issue. Sounds like the guy you got it from didn't know what he was doing if it has a new clutch. Rebuilding it is not rocket science. You can get the Service manual from the Manuals thread on here and follow the instructions closely to overhaul the clutch assembly.
To rebuild the carb you'll probably want the Kohler Service manual, which I believe is now linked on here.
Why do you think you need a new starter Solenoid?

 

[Mark Leaming]

Mark - can't get the video to play but sure is a nice looking 1200 in the pic you posted. To bad about the clutch issue. Sounds like the guy you got it from didn't know what he was doing if it has a new clutch. Rebuilding it is not rocket science. You can get the Service manual from the Manuals thread on here and follow the instructions closely to overhaul the clutch assembly.
To rebuild the carb you'll probably want the Kohler Service manual, which I believe is now linked on here.
Why do you think you need a new starter Solenoid?

It clicks when trying to start it.

 

[Mark Leaming]

Let’s try this clutch video again. Thanks for trying to help.

 

[dschwandt]

Clicks??
Probably DEAD battery and/or poor dirty connections.
Try jumping direct to the starter from the positive battery terminal with the key on, the brake locked
and the transmission in neutral

 

[Mark Leaming]

Clicks??
Probably DEAD battery and/or poor dirty connections.
Try jumping direct to the starter from the positive battery terminal with the key on, the brake locked
and the transmission in neutral

Brand new battery, it don’t do it all the time.

 

[dschwandt]

Check all the connections would be the next step.

 

[Mark Leaming]

Check all the connections would be the next step.

Thanks I’m more worried about the clutch. I’ve never must with one of these!

 

[spndncash]

the clutch on these are quite simple. Charlie will get you the parts you need for the clutch and driveshaft. You probably should consider the condition of your spirol pins as well.
the parts breakdown and the repair manuals are pretty descriptive. otherwise check on the forum for any help you may need. there is a lot of experience here that is willing and able to assist.

 

[tkhoffman]

Brand new battery, it don’t do it all the time.

Sounds like the large contacts in the solenoid are carbonized. Sometimes it gets enough connection to start, sometimes just the click of the contacts withoutvtje power transfer. I'd think a new solenoid is in order.

 

[hydroharry]

Mark - I finally got the video to play. Clutching action in the video looks pretty normal to me. Not sure how Charlie knows you need a new drive shaft. Maybe from the wobbling, or that you have no more adjustment. I can say someone did replace the clutch disk with the old original fiber IH version, which is better than the metal version used on Quiet Lines like your 1200 (they were thin metal and easily cracked). Before you order your parts I'd definitely disassemble and inspect what you have. You might be able to just true up the pressure plates rather than replace them. If the teaser spring is not new I'd replace it. Same goes for the throw-out bearing. You may need a new main spring if it's cracked. And I would definitely use new spirol pins (the double rolled original IH style, not just plain roll or split pins).

 

[Mark Leaming]

Mark - I finally got the video to play. Clutching action in the video looks pretty normal to me. Not sure how Charlie knows you need a new drive shaft. Maybe from the wobbling, or that you have no more adjustment. I can say someone did replace the clutch disk with the old original fiber IH version, which is better than the metal version used on Quiet Lines like your 1200 (they were thin metal and easily cracked). Before you order your parts I'd definitely disassemble and inspect what you have. You might be able to just true up the pressure plates rather than replace them. If the teaser spring is not new I'd replace it. Same goes for the throw-out bearing. You may need a new main spring if it's cracked. And I would definitely use new spirol pins (the double rolled original IH style, not just plain roll or split pins).

Thanks I really appreciate it!

 

[dschwandt]

Something is not running true on the engine end of that driveshaft.
You can see that in the video
And Harry, he does have the original metal flex plate on there.
I'd suspect that as well and the bearing that is included in that assembly.

Looks to me like a complete dis-assembly of the driveline from the transmission right up to and including the flex plate is in order here. Take a good look at the engine mounts as well because that can be, in many cases if left un attended, the start of many drive line problems.

 

[spndncash]

Hi Mark,
I agree with Harry now that the video is actually playing for me as well. its best to see what you have, what you need and go from there. I have removed my drive shaft (106) without moving the engine - I dont know the 1200 difficulty with removing the engine so that may be easier for you. My issue was that I have a front end loader and the loader frame in the way. I removed the rear body work and was able to work around the rear connections easily. The front I had to access from below. Start to finish it was about 3.5 hours to replace all my driveshaft roll pins, springs, friction disc, change my creeper roll pins, bearings and seals, and then oil change in the creeper and the transaxle.

 

[Mark Leaming]

Something is not running true on the engine end of that driveshaft.
You can see that in the video
And Harry, he does have the original metal flex plate on there.
I'd suspect that as well and the bearing that is included in that assembly.

Looks to me like a complete dis-assembly of the driveline from the transmission right up to and including the flex plate is in order here. Take a good look at the engine mounts as well because that can be, in many cases if left un attended, the start of many drive line problems.

Thanks sir for your input, it is appreciated!

 

[Mark Leaming]

Hi Mark,
I agree with Harry now that the video is actually playing for me as well. its best to see what you have, what you need and go from there. I have removed my drive shaft (106) without moving the engine - I dont know the 1200 difficulty with removing the engine so that may be easier for you. My issue was that I have a front end loader and the loader frame in the way. I removed the rear body work and was able to work around the rear connections easily. The front I had to access from below. Start to finish it was about 3.5 hours to replace all my driveshaft roll pins, springs, friction disc, change my creeper roll pins, bearings and seals, and then oil change in the creeper and the transaxle.

Thanks I certainly appreciate it!

 

[hydroharry]

Something is not running true on the engine end of that driveshaft.
You can see that in the video
And Harry, he does have the original metal flex plate on there.
I'd suspect that as well and the bearing that is included in that assembly.

Looks to me like a complete dis-assembly of the driveline from the transmission right up to and including the flex plate is in order here. Take a good look at the engine mounts as well because that can be, in many cases if left un attended, the start of many drive line problems.

David - ya I didn't describe it very well in my post. He does have that 3-pin driver metal flex plate that was crap. The original style solid metal plate with 3 pins is much much better. Wonder if the whole problem here is that metal flex plate is cracked and out of alignment?????.

Mark - see if you can get a good hard look at metal plate that has the 3 pins. Look for cracks in the thin metal area towards the center. Could be why the whole thing seems to wobble in the video, and maybe why you seem to have no adjustment left. If it is cracked (or even if it isn't cracked) I'd replace it with one of the original versions used on the narrow frame tractors. You can probably get a new one, or maybe even a used one that you could replace the 3 pins if they appear worn. The reason I say to replace it anyway if it isn't cracked is that they are really prone to cracking and failing, while the original versions hardly ever failed other than an occasional pin issue.

Keep us up to date on what you do and how you make out. Although I'm a Hydro Guy I had a 1200 once that was a really sweet tractor. It was a later version Quiet Line with the aluminum lower grill housing (early ones were cast iron) and I popped a wheelie with it one time nearly scared me to death - after that it was kinda fun to punch it.

 

[JPrattico]

Check the engine iso mounts, the engine may not be sitting properly in the frame throwing the clutch out of alignment. Seems that the iso mounts are a common issue with QL tractors, so even if that isn't the problem with the clutch, I would still recommend replacing them.

Although, the clutch operation in the video appears pretty normal, so not entirely sure how there's a problem other than the obvious wobble in the assembly. Also appears to be missing the anti-rattle springs too, which would explain all the sound.

 

[Mark Leaming]

David - ya I didn't describe it very well in my post. He does have that 3-pin driver metal flex plate that was crap. The original style solid metal plate with 3 pins is much much better. Wonder if the whole problem here is that metal flex plate is cracked and out of alignment?????.

Mark - see if you can get a good hard look at metal plate that has the 3 pins. Look for cracks in the thin metal area towards the center. Could be why the whole thing seems to wobble in the video, and maybe why you seem to have no adjustment left. If it is cracked (or even if it isn't cracked) I'd replace it with one of the original versions used on the narrow frame tractors. You can probably get a new one, or maybe even a used one that you could replace the 3 pins if they appear worn. The reason I say to replace it anyway if it isn't cracked is that they are really prone to cracking and failing, while the original versions hardly ever failed other than an occasional pin issue.

Keep us up to date on what you do and how you make out. Although I'm a Hydro Guy I had a 1200 once that was a really sweet tractor. It was a later version Quiet Line with the aluminum lower grill housing (early ones were cast iron) and I popped a wheelie with it one time nearly scared me to death - after that it was kinda fun to punch it.

Will do Harry. Thanks