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IH Cub Cadet Tractor Forum

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David Middleton

Active member
Joined
May 11, 2021
Messages
37
Location
Honey Brook Pa
Have you used PB Blaster or Kroil or Liquid Wrench or some other penetrating oil on the PTO set screws? Have you cleaned out the heads in the set screws? There's typically a bunch of dirt, mud daubers, etch in them that can prevent the Allen wrench from getting a good purchase. Also try tapping on the end of the Allen wrench with a small hammer as you apply torque, this can act like an impact wrench and ca nhelp loosen the screws. Good luck.
Yeah. Soaked with PB blaster, heated with a torch and spayed with more PB blaster. Cleaned out the holes, used a good, new allen key and tapped it with a hammer and they spun instantly. I'm thinking someone else tried and failed. The one I got out only had one set screw in it.

You get that14 horse rebuilt you're gonna love that beast!
I loved when I got the 12 horse loaded down and it started barking, I'm sure I'm going to love the 14...

The only thing I'm worried about is one-more-thing-itis... I know I'm going to end up doing some kind of restoration on this thing... I'm going to paint the engine up and as soon as I stick it in the frame I'm going to want to do more... But time and money never seem to be at the same place at the same time. I either have neither or just one or the other...

Summer Mode
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David Middleton

Active member
Joined
May 11, 2021
Messages
37
Location
Honey Brook Pa
Yeah my wife was fit to be tied over my147 getting restored! :errrr:
I have this and a 76 Powerking 1614 that I use for cutting the grass. The girlfriend won't use them because she doesn't know how to use stick and any time I do any work she starts with "Why don't you throw out that old tractor and get a new one? It doesn't even work..." Never mind I ignored doing points for 3 years and mowed, leave vac'd, snow blew, etc and when the points finally gave up and I spent 20 minutes replacing it became the old junk tractor that doesn't run and that I'm always working on....
 

PACub100

Well-known member
IHCC Supporter
Joined
Dec 8, 2019
Messages
900
Location
Woodbury, Pennsylvania
I have this and a 76 Powerking 1614 that I use for cutting the grass. The girlfriend won't use them because she doesn't know how to use stick and any time I do any work she starts with "Why don't you throw out that old tractor and get a new one? It doesn't even work..." Never mind I ignored doing points for 3 years and mowed, leave vac'd, snow blew, etc and when the points finally gave up and I spent 20 minutes replacing it became the old junk tractor that doesn't run and that I'm always working on....
You know what this means, right?... time to find and add a 129, 149, 1250, 1450 or 1650. Hydrostatic and "new"...to you. 😜
 

jkoenig

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Sep 14, 2002
Messages
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Jim Koenig Halfway between Harvester, MO and Cadet, MO
Ever heard of an automatic center punch? Ping the center of those pesky set screws a bunch of times with the punch slightly angled in the direction to loosen, then tap the screw closed a bit, then insert a good Allen, and try. I get rusted, inked up screws loose that way all day at work. I’ve worn out a few automatic center punches-buy one in the $10-20 range, not a $5 one.

It has been a long time since I worked on my old narrow frame PTO. Do you have to insert the Allen the long way and use an extender to drive it, or can you use the long arm as the lever? If the Allen wrench has ever been rounded, toss it. Sharpening only gets out the screws that want to come out. Also consider the extra long arm style possibly chromed. I make my living turning socket head cap screws and set screws, and I have become a bit of an Allen wrench snob, but strangely, my go-to set is from the Canadian equivalent of Harbor Freight...extra long arms, chrome, and ball drivers.

Northern, and possibly Home Depot have carried some Allens just for stripped heads. They have a sort of wing on the tip. Some of my coworkers swear by them. Try online if they don’t have them in store.

Good luck!
 

David Middleton

Active member
Joined
May 11, 2021
Messages
37
Location
Honey Brook Pa
You know what this means, right?... time to find and add a 129, 149, 1250, 1450 or 1650. Hydrostatic and "new"...to you. 😜
I've been good but she has legitimate nightmares of just that. The other morning she said she dreamed I was getting tractors delivered by semi trucks and they were lined up down the street waiting to drop off.

I thought it was a hell of a good dream! She disagreed...
 

David Middleton

Active member
Joined
May 11, 2021
Messages
37
Location
Honey Brook Pa
Ever heard of an automatic center punch? Ping the center of those pesky set screws a bunch of times with the punch slightly angled in the direction to loosen, then tap the screw closed a bit, then insert a good Allen, and try. I get rusted, inked up screws loose that way all day at work. I’ve worn out a few automatic center punches-buy one in the $10-20 range, not a $5 one.

It has been a long time since I worked on my old narrow frame PTO. Do you have to insert the Allen the long way and use an extender to drive it, or can you use the long arm as the lever? If the Allen wrench has ever been rounded, toss it. Sharpening only gets out the screws that want to come out. Also consider the extra long arm style possibly chromed. I make my living turning socket head cap screws and set screws, and I have become a bit of an Allen wrench snob, but strangely, my go-to set is from the Canadian equivalent of Harbor Freight...extra long arms, chrome, and ball drivers.

Northern, and possibly Home Depot have carried some Allens just for stripped heads. They have a sort of wing on the tip. Some of my coworkers swear by them. Try online if they don’t have them in store.

Good luck!
They're kind of deep and the auto center punches I've seen I don't know if they'd fit and give me the angle I would need.

You gave me an idea bout the extractors... I have some that are the corkscrew type with a long taper. I might try that and see if I can get one to wedge in.
 

jkoenig

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Sep 14, 2002
Messages
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Jim Koenig Halfway between Harvester, MO and Cadet, MO
I recently acquired a slim auto center punch that has fit into places others would not. It’s about the size of a pencil, and the angle is less important than the vibrations.

Extractors? Could work!
 

David Middleton

Active member
Joined
May 11, 2021
Messages
37
Location
Honey Brook Pa
The more I look, the more it looks like someone else was there first and buggered it all up. I tried what I had but I don't think anything but drilling would work at this point. I have a #7 bit which is what you use for a 1/4-20 hole, so I'm going to sneak up and drill with that. That should leave me with good threads to work with. I'll just have to clean them out with a tap.

I got the flywheel off as well. Once the PTO is out it won't be long till it's all apart and I can start cleaning really good and getting ready for the work to be done.

I should be able to mic the bore tomorrow and find out if I can stay 10 under or if it needs to be bored again. They didn't measure the crank so who know about the bore... I didn't feel any rock though so I'm hopeful.
 

Stu

Well-known member
Joined
Apr 21, 2020
Messages
63
Location
Southern Vermont
If you can wait a day or two, get yourself a left hand #7 drill, as you drill the screw out it will spin right out. McMaster has them, sometimes fastenal does if you have a branch nearby. I've done this many times on busted screws, works amazingly well. At work I had a full set of the standard tap size drills, left handed, it was awesome.
 

jkoenig

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Jim Koenig Halfway between Harvester, MO and Cadet, MO
/\
Yes, yes, YES! Left handed drill bits and taps are awesome! Northern has a few in stock by me.
 

David Middleton

Active member
Joined
May 11, 2021
Messages
37
Location
Honey Brook Pa
Well I was supposed to get some left handed 1/8" bits today but they're right handed and 0.118" in diameter or 3mm... Wonder where they came from... :)

It was a 10 pack for 9.99... I use enough 1/8" bits for pilot drilling things where the dimensions aren't critical that I don't care. I kind of expected it was too good to be true... Hopefully they're at least HSS bits.

Tomorrow we try again and at $8 per bit they better match their description....

The screws are either hardened or work hardened so I need at least a HSS bit or maybe cobalt or similar. Of course the harder you get the more brittle so I'm hoping to work up to it. The bits coming are cobalt so they should dig in no problem. I may see how the 3mm bits cut and if I get impatient I may just drill through and retap. My inside mic's came so I also want to check the bore, maybe that'll keep me satisfied till tomorrow...
 

jkoenig

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Sep 14, 2002
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Jim Koenig Halfway between Harvester, MO and Cadet, MO
Our stainless set screws at work are not as strong as our conventional steel set screws. We have a control handle that moves via a pneumatic cylinder, (slap full on, slap full off) and is prone to vibrating loose. At some point over the years, the engineers changed from conventional set screws to stainless. The stainless heads (softer?) are now prone to strippage under the load I put on those particular set screws with my aforementioned extra long arm hex key set. Thanks guys. I used to be able to pull as hard as I wanted.

Robert, I hope yours work out well. The stainless factor should help fight the dastardly PTO rust. I'd still try some kind of anti-seize.

David, I hope you successfully get yours out soon.
 

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