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New guy with an original

IH Cub Cadet Tractor Forum

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digger

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kmcconaughey

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Charlie, I think you saw an extra digit where there wasn't one. 😲 The Original went up to S/N: 65457, and according to Paul Bell's serial number listing by month, see link below, #9539 was built in May of 1961.

Paul Bell's Serial Number Chart

Also, here's a serial number listing from an Attachment Guide:

Cub Cadet Serial Numbers.jpg
 

Imnaykid

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Thanks for the welcome. The machine is sitting outside because I have no shop space. It has not run in maybe 15 years. Mr. Houtz in Elburn, IL. is the only person who has worked on the machine.
I was a Paramedic and Emergency Department Head and I know nothing about this type work.
 

digger

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Thanks for the welcome. The machine is sitting outside because I have no shop space. It has not run in maybe 15 years. Mr. Houtz in Elburn, IL. is the only person who has worked on the machine.
I was a Paramedic and Emergency Department Head and I know nothing about this type work.
You be hard pressed to find anyone better than Rob, Just sayin! (y) (y) (y)
 

pfosen

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Paul Fosen
Nice, I'm fairly local too. In fact I work a few miles directly south in Yorkville.
 

Imnaykid

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Thanks. I am 40 miles south of Woodstock. I am 20 miles north of Yorkville. I am 34 miles from Barrington.

I have my Grandfathers Original. The valves move up and down but the piston does not. Thats where it stands right now. I am not a gearhead so I really dont know how to proceed. I want to use the machine, it does not have to be a parade vehicle.
 

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kmcconaughey

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I assume you have the head removed if your able to observe the valves and piston. If the piston does not move then it likely has a broken rod. If you are observing down the spark plug hole and behind the breather where the valves springs are, please note that the spark plug is not above the piston, it is centered between the intake and exhaust valves. So depending on how you observed the valves and piston it might be in better condition than you think.
 

Imnaykid

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Fuel tank is off. I was told to remove spark plug and spray in penetrating oil. Did That. The told to turn pulley on front of motor, had to cut the old belt and the pulley moves. The was to to listen and feel for movement when I turned to pulley. Did that and yes could hear something and felt like air moved. Then told to take off head, was told that is the part the spark plug goes into. More spray, a wrench and talked nice to it like it was a pretty lady and the bolts all came loose. That is when I found the valves move when I turn the front pulley but the piston does not. More spray on top of piston, I figure no matter what is next it has to come out at some point.

Thanks everyone, That is where the work stands now. Please, what do I do next?
 

dschwandt

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David Schwandt
You get yourself a copy of the Kohler engine manual and follow it religiously.

Have the crank and block checked for out of spec tolerances.
Once you have the results you can order the correct rebuild kit that will include a new piston and rod, all gaskets and valves.

Machine shop will/should tank, bore & hone the block and fit the piston. They need the piston to do this. They will/should/could/can polish or turn the crank as needed.
Expect to pay in the range of $200-$300 for this service plus parts.

This, of course if you want a top notch rebuild job.
If not, all bets are off

Good luck!

Buy a set of feeler gages, a ring compressor, a volt ohm meter and/or a test lamp if you do not already have these tools.

You, the 2 Pauls and Bill should get together over a big pitcher of iced tea or a few adult beverages some weekend and mull this situation over!!!
I'm about 150 miles west of you.
 
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