New Guy Here

[hydroharry]

The wing nuts are missing on one. The black section of the grille is bent. Appears someone got a little close to something at one time.
I put it on the list.

Well Dan - the wing nuts at the hardware store won't be exactly the same shape as the originals (at least I've never found the exact ones). I think IH likely made and used their own wingnuts, probably from the West Pullman (IL.) factory. You may have noticed most of the original bolts on your 169 are stamped "WP" on the heads.

You also mentioned the black section of the grill is bent. I believe Marty G thought you were referring to the lower grill which is a sort of plastic and does seem to get hot from the muffler heat and then warp over time. You can usually find replacement grills around from the lower hp units (like an 86, 108 or 109) that are still in nice shape. The more difficult thing to find is that aluminum IH grill emblem glued to it, and which is still attached to yours. I've been pretty successful painting them up in the past. It takes time and work to mask and paint the individual colors but it can be done. Otherwise, if you do happen to find an NOS replacement emblem they are typically BIG $$$$. The aftermarket decal kits do come with a vinyl replacement but it's not textured like the original emblem and I don't know how well the vinyl holds up to the heat in that area.

Another thing you mentioned was your muffler being cracked. That's to bad. Maybe yours can be repaired. Replacement mufflers were specific only to the 169 and have been NLA for quite some time. Charlie (Digger) at CC Specialties (see the colorful boxes at the top of the page) had a couple hundred re-manufactured but apparently sold out and isn't getting any more (at least that's what he said when someone recently asked). If you can find an NOS one they are usually BIG $$$. Charlie does have a noise suppression version that is very similar to the original but is for the 10, 12, and 14hp engines. You might be able to get one to work by doing some modifications to you exhaust outlet pipe coming out of the block. I believe you would basically need a nipple reducer to replace the funny S shaped pipe you currently have.

Don't hesitate to ask any questions you might have as you go forward fixing up your 169. The most powerful IH Cub Cadet produced in 1974.

 

[dschwandt]

They are #10 x 32

 

[Dan Colonel]

Wingnuts missing, don't lose that ring, they are expensive to replace.
I am thinking an exhaust leak could warp the plastic grille over time.

The ring is there. Wing nuts are gone. Thanks guys

 

[Dan Colonel]

Well Dan - the wing nuts at the hardware store won't be exactly the same shape as the originals (at least I've never found the exact ones). I think IH likely made and used their own wingnuts, probably from the West Pullman (IL.) factory. You may have noticed most of the original bolts on your 169 are stamped "WP" on the heads.

You also mentioned the black section of the grill is bent. I believe Marty G thought you were referring to the lower grill which is a sort of plastic and does seem to get hot from the muffler heat and then warp over time. You can usually find replacement grills around from the lower hp units (like an 86, 108 or 109) that are still in nice shape. The more difficult thing to find is that aluminum IH grill emblem glued to it, and which is still attached to yours. I've been pretty successful painting them up in the past. It takes time and work to mask and paint the individual colors but it can be done. Otherwise, if you do happen to find an NOS replacement emblem they are typically BIG $$$$. The aftermarket decal kits do come with a vinyl replacement but it's not textured like the original emblem and I don't know how well the vinyl holds up to the heat in that area.

Another thing you mentioned was your muffler being cracked. That's to bad. Maybe yours can be repaired. Replacement mufflers were specific only to the 169 and have been NLA for quite some time. Charlie (Digger) at CC Specialties (see the colorful boxes at the top of the page) had a couple hundred re-manufactured but apparently sold out and isn't getting any more (at least that's what he said when someone recently asked). If you can find an NOS one they are usually BIG $$$. Charlie does have a noise suppression version that is very similar to the original but is for the 10, 12, and 14hp engines. You might be able to get one to work by doing some modifications to you exhaust outlet pipe coming out of the block. I believe you would basically need a nipple reducer to replace the funny S shaped pipe you currently have.

Don't hesitate to ask any questions you might have as you go forward fixing up your 169. The most powerful IH Cub Cadet produced in 1974.

Thanks Harry. I was thinking (that’s where the trouble starts) maybe a guy could cut one end of the muffler. Re- pack or re build the guts and weld end back on. Aint sure just what to do. Would the muffler for the 14 hp. cause a restriction of some kind ? I do appreciate what you guys are adding to conversation.

 

[hydroharry]

Thanks Harry. I was thinking (that’s where the trouble starts) maybe a guy could cut one end of the muffler. Re- pack or re build the guts and weld end back on. Aint sure just what to do. Would the muffler for the 14 hp. cause a restriction of some kind ? I do appreciate what you guys are adding to conversation.

Well Dan - when I got my 169 someone had already changed the original exhaust outlet on the block to a 1" straight nipple and used one of the lower hp noise suppression mufflers. The muffler has a curved 45 degree inlet pipe that connects to the straight nipple. Here's a pic of how mine used to look before I got the correct S shaped outlet pipe for the block and the correct muffler with the straight inlet pipe. (And yes it leaked a little to).

I can't recall the size of the correct S shaped exhaust pipe that goes to the block but I believe it is 1-1/4" there probably is some restriction if you use the 1" nipple for the lower hp engine muffler. This is what I actually was worried about, that it may be restrictive and maybe even cause the engine to run hotter than designed, and it's why I changed it when I was finally able to find a correct original muffler about 4 years ago.

I'm not an engineer and can't speak scientifically to what happens using different sizes. What I can say is an old timer had told me the exhaust outlet should at least match the size of the exhaust valve, and I seem to recall the diameter of the K341 valve is over an 1". Maybe some of the others on here can provide better info and recommendations.