Parts Wanted needed.108 lift rod

[gary noblit]

I just need the outside pipe and the internal spring if you have one....don't want the entire assembly..mine is wasted if I can't find one I may do an elec lift....If you didn't know ,the top button unscrews and there is a spirol pin on the bottom.....the side small button is pressed in..

 

[digger]

I just need the outside pipe and the internal spring if you have one....don't want the entire assembly..mine is wasted if I can't find one I may do an elec lift....If you didn't know ,the top button unscrews and there is a spirol pin on the bottom.....the side small button is pressed in..

Rob Houtz a forum sponsor at cubcadetusedparts can help you with that.

Cub Cadet Used Parts

 

[gary noblit]

Digger,thanks ..I tried the website and couldn't pull one up..probably best to call or mail..

 

[1811Cub]

Digger,thanks ..I tried the website and couldn't pull one up..probably best to call or mail..

Cub Cadet Used Parts - Product Display

This it? You might have to buy the whole thing..

The pipe alone is IH-544208-R1
The internal spring is 732-3005.
The release button/pin is IH-401456-R2

 

[dschwandt]

Better just get the whole thing as they are a real PITA to get the tube apart from the base without damaging the chrome finish.
I have several laying on my shelf from wide frames.
What exactly is wrong with yours, all rusted up or what.
The springs are readily available from Charlie as are the top buttons.

 

[gary noblit]

cub, yes that is the right one ....mine has been cut off about 6 in. down....I was able to get the remainder out with serious heat.....after looking at pics I can guess why it was cut ...I found many pieces of old spring still inside tube...inner rod still ok....thanks guys

 

[gary noblit]

All parts co. say tube "no longer available" including IH

 

[dschwandt]

That whole thing should be a $10-$20 deal at a swap meet.

 

[gary noblit]

David, in my dreams $20. ..the only one I found so far was 150...Not happening...I'll keep looking

 

[mgwin]

Look for that series tractor with no motor. They can be bought for around $150. Then you would have all kinds of parts that you may need later.

 

[mike samack]

David, in my dreams $20. ..the only one I found so far was 150...Not happening...I'll keep looking

i have what your looking for

 

[dschwandt]

I have several, how many do you want/need??

 

[gary noblit]

David ,I'm talking with a member right now...we will see..thank you..

 

[gary noblit]

gents, I decided to try this elec lift that's been on a shelf for quite a while >It's rated at 330 lbs ..right now it moves all mechanisms fine but the deck is not on it yet... The mounting is 3" channel with flat welded on back..2 ..5/16 bolts thru frame..A no# 60 chain link on each end to allow a little flex....Gotta be worth a try.. I'll remove center rod if it works good ..Elec will be dual directional toggle with pwr coming off solenoid... wish me luck...

 

[Mac Stevens]

I’m close to to having my 129 ready to start up after it’s many year hiatus. I purchased an actuator a couple weeks ago to attempt the same thing as you’re doing. I won’t be using a mowing deck, only some rear attachments. I plan on using a lift assist spring in addition to the actuator, if needed, and Heim joints for mounting. Even though I think 4” of travel is what’s needed I bought the 6” in case I needed a couple inches to play with. Was your lift lever tube bad since it appears you removed it with the hot wrench? I’ll likely leave mine intact and secure it in the float mode. I’m a little unsure I want to trust the float button though. IIRC on one of my family’s first Cubs there was a flip-over wire bail to float the deck. Watching to see your results.

 

[gary noblit]

Mac, the upper end of my lift was cut off by p.o. The center rod goes all the way thru .If you unscrew top button the rod should pull thru the bottom.Might have to jack up the machine a bit.(I have not done this yet)..I just think the elec is worth a try.If it works ok I'll be pleased,if it doesn't it won't be my worst failure when modifying something....Sounds like your plan should work with an added spring...

 

[RayF]

I'm using an 800#+ Linear actuator for a rear lift I built..
It has worked flawlessly, and will lift my trailers (boat. car)... for moving around the driveway.

 

[mike samack]

nice

 

[dfrisk]

My 129 had lived a really brutal life before I got it, lots of stuf could getf had been cobbled up to keep it mowing, Dad found out the prior owner ran a lawn service mowing quite a few lawns every day. Sure, wouldn't EVERYBODY use a 20 year old Cub Cadet if you were going to mow 6, maybe 8, or 12 lawns everyday! He ground a slot in the footrest and bolted a bar about 1/4" thk, maybe 3/8" that fit into slot to hold the deck up, and a short bar welded to the first one to hold the first bar off the footrest to lower the deck. I ordered all the guts for the lift lever my dealer could get, but the center rod was NLA, so I bought some steel rod and made one, I've got a crude print or dimensioned drawing of it. You could not tell it was home made!

 

[gary noblit]

Dennis,I believe that innovation is the better part of running wrenches.We don't have to be certified engineers to modify something to make it better or at least functional.Human nature says we try to make it easier to operate..Often our ideas are a great improvement and often they are an exercise in humility.I'm thinking Henry Ford knew the concept very well...It's like taking something apart for the first time,now I try to figure how it was put together:Which part went on last etc.When one can grasp assembly line mentality it gets easier...