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My wife's cub cadet 100

IH Cub Cadet Tractor Forum

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ssmall

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shaun small
My wife has complained about how much time and money I put into my 1950 cub. Then she saw some garden tractors on tv. So the idea hit me to find her an old IH cadet. We found this one on the local craigs list about a month ago. Bought it, took it home and disassembled it that night. sandblasted it that weekend, painted it the next, and just got through reassembly.
Still got some issues, now the engine misses - I think something is up with the wiring. and now the hood sits too far back and will not clear the steering wheel - andy one got ideas - got some tweeking to do. Ohh yeah, forgot to mention, she picked out the color scheme. And yes I know that is not the correct hood logo (She liked the original hood logo better, so that is what she got!)

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The hood hits because the bottom lip/flange of the frame (where the grill surround is bolted to) is bent. It may not appear to be, but if you lay a straight edge on that lip you can see it. It is a common problem and probably 80% of the 70/100 models that are still inuse are, or were, bent in this area because of people running the tractor into trees, fences, etc, when using them. You can use a big hammer to try and "rearange" the frame, but the simple fix is to put a thick washer between the bottom of the grill and the frame on the two REAR mount bolts. Do not put any on the two front mount bolts. That washer will tilt the top of the grill forward enough the hood will not hit the steering wheel. It may take 1 or 2 washers, depending on how thick they are, you want a washer about 3/32" to 1/8" thick, and if one per side is not enough, use two. If it needs more than that, you need to straighten the frame a bit. The mounting holes in the grill and the frame are oversize enough to allow some fore and aft adjustment of the grill, so be sure it is as far forward as it will go when you tighten the mount bolts.
 
Thanks paul. That makes sense. The area of the frame around the front bolts was a little beat up. When I bought the tractor it had a dish steering wheel (I guess from a later model cub) and clearance was not an issue. I was hoping it was not an issue with the new flat steering wheel. I like the look of it a lot better than the dish. I will try persuading the frame, if not I got a box full of body shims I can play around with. Thanks
 
Hey Paul, any advice on setting the brake. It is weak at best. Do I want to screw the bolt in to get more brake? Have not played around with it that long.
 
Shaun, It is an IH cub cadet so this could go up on the main page for Garden tractors. More people might see it. thanks,
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SHAUN - There's specific instructions on adjusting the clutch/brakes on GD CC's, in the operator's manuals. You want the two functions to work at specific times, clutch first, then brake. The brake adjustment is the little square head set screw on the lever on the front lower face of the rearend. If you have some braking action you only need to tighten the set screw maybe 1/8th to 1/4 turn then re-tighten the loc nut. And since the brake is a wet disc brake the adjustment stays put for a long long time.
 
http://youtu.be/PgZY5TGjswU
http://youtu.be/jZvdIKlVNJA

Here is my wife riding on her cub cadet for the first time. Thanks for all the advice. The engine had the poiny out of wack and the frame was bent up slightly on the front causing the hood to sit too bar aft. Thanks for th info. Everyone was 100% correct on solving my problems
 
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