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My first yellow GT, rough 147

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Here’s the carb.
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9978E7C7-00CA-4BEF-92BA-9D9FB0471700.jpeg
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The problem is fixed, the first thing I did was adjust the tab so the float was level, still leaked. Then I replaced the fast speed needle and the damaged part from the center stem. I used parts from a Chinese knock off carb I bought off eBay. The Chinese carb didn’t work very well, but only $15 waste. I took those 2 parts out and put in my Koehler carb and leaking stopped and it runs good. The problem I believe was needle was bent slightly and the other part was damaged. I was surprised how easily the Chinese parts screwed into my carb. Not sure why the Chinese carb didn’t work, just couldn’t get it to run smoothly. The last fix on the carb will be a new throttle shaft bushing, not looking forward to that.
 
I think the Chinese carb castings are a crapshoot. Between cheap materials, and poor machining, these will lead to lackluster performance. I have had great luck with the Tecumseh snow king knock off carbs though.
 
IF you have an original carb, with original float- AND you are using regular unleaded gas...... you need to set the float (closed) height 1/64" LOWER than original spec. This is because the new fuels are not as DENSE as the old fuels these carbs were designed for. You need MORE modern fuel.... to "float" the float to the same height as a more dense fuel.

FloatLevel.jpg
 
Brad congrats...persistance pays
Thanks, each fix gets me more and more hooked on this illness!
By the way, I use 87 octane with no ethanol, not sure how this compares to old leaded fuels. I have my own tank, so I buy in bulk for all my small engines.
 
I put a $23 eBay Chinese carb on a Briggs 8 hp (on a tiller) as I couldn’t find a rebuild kit to fix the leaking original carb and damned if it doesn’t run great. Also put a carb from “I save tractors” on my K 12 hp 1250 when I rebuilt it, it also runs just right. BUT now the last non ethanol gas station in town is gone - what’s the best way to deal with ethanol gas? Does Stabil solve all problems? I’ve never used it. Thanks for advice.
 
Brad - well I'm glad you resolved your leaky carb issue, but honestly I don't see how replacing the main jet and high speed needle could have stopped the leaking.

What about the gasket on the needle seat I mentioned??? (And which you said your kit didn't have). Without that gasket I'm 99.999% positive that the carb will leak.
 
Good job Brad.

It sounds like Harry wants you to take it apart again, and take out the gasket to test his theory.
 
Good job Brad.

It sounds like Harry wants you to take it apart again, and take out the gasket to test his theory.

No Jim - I'm not asking him to take it apart again. I'm asking him if he installed the gasket. After I posted my initial post with a picture of the gasket Brad said his kit didn't come with the black gasket and he was going to look for the original one. I assume it was probably stuck to the old seat.
 
Just funnin at your expense, Harry.
 
Brad - well I'm glad you resolved your leaky carb issue, but honestly I don't see how replacing the main jet and high speed needle could have stopped the leaking.

What about the gasket on the needle seat I mentioned??? (And which you said your kit didn't have). Without that gasket I'm 99.999% positive that the carb will leak.
I did check for the gasket, there was one installed, guessing I reused the old one. The needle was bent so bad I couldn’t get it completely straight, and the jet was damaged as well. Not sure how my fix solved the problem. Hoping it doesn’t come back!
 
Jack, yes, it's a bronze washer/bushing that is a perfect size to fit the carb shaft. They are 1/4" ID x 7/16" OD x ~1/16" thick. I believe that you would use two of the bushings (aka thrust bearings) in place of one of the thicker Kohler KH-25-158-02-S bushings.

Here's a photo of two of the Hillman part# 58087 A:

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Here's a photo of the Kohler part# "KH-25-158-02-S":

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