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My 1512D for dog rebuild
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- Allen Schumacher
Don, that looks like regular ATF, color looks ok and its see-thru. Car trannys work fine on it, just doesnt have the water capture ability.
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- Home of the Plow Special
Don-
The project looks good. Don't let that bad rim get to you. Seems like about half of the tractors I've bought through the years have had issues like that.
Just keep plugging along and you'll have something very nice by the time you're done with it.
The project looks good. Don't let that bad rim get to you. Seems like about half of the tractors I've bought through the years have had issues like that.
Just keep plugging along and you'll have something very nice by the time you're done with it.
jdiederichs
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- Jim Diederichs
Donald, re: engine mounts, I don't think you need to replace those, they look normal to me and I have seen alot of them. You see some "flash" where the rubber is bonded with the metal, normal.
I would hate for you to buy new ones, sight unseen, only to discover yours are just like them. I honestly believe from the pictures you provided that they are in good shape.
I would hate for you to buy new ones, sight unseen, only to discover yours are just like them. I honestly believe from the pictures you provided that they are in good shape.
Jim Diederichs
Well I will try them I think then with the extra rubber the po had stuffed in there between the two mounts. Could you tell me if a newer style shaft is a better set up for a 1512. I did like the CV style joints. I will still need a pump and shaft and will to get it here if I can find a person on the US side that would ship one. Don T
Well I will try them I think then with the extra rubber the po had stuffed in there between the two mounts. Could you tell me if a newer style shaft is a better set up for a 1512. I did like the CV style joints. I will still need a pump and shaft and will to get it here if I can find a person on the US side that would ship one. Don T
Art
I have a vision of what this has to become for me to be happy lol . I do hope to get there. Thanks for your words of encourgement with the 1512. I found myself down on the floor tonight under the 1512 plotting the route of the rear hyd lines So I have not given up yet. again thanks to all. Later Don T
I have a vision of what this has to become for me to be happy lol . I do hope to get there. Thanks for your words of encourgement with the 1512. I found myself down on the floor tonight under the 1512 plotting the route of the rear hyd lines So I have not given up yet. again thanks to all. Later Don T
mhomrighausen
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- Marlin Homrighausen
Donald T. ATF is one of the suggested fluids for your 15U. Allen S. is correct.
jdiederichs
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Don, I like your idea of using the cv/driveshaft in place of the rag joints; they have a rough life with a diesel due to the different pulse pattern a diesel has. In farm tractors the clutch plate dampener springs* would fail on a diesel, live forever in a gas application. (*the springs that dampen the center hub/spline)
Not sure what 'off the shelf' driveshaft would fit from CC, obviously the 1782 would be too long as it is a Super. I wonder out loud how close the 1864 shaft would be?
Couple other thoughts: while the engine is pulled, loook over the engine cradle for cracking; this occurs on the vertical section near the motor mounts.
Also note that the cradle prevents starter removal, you may want to examine this if possible to make a clearance cut(?)
Since you also see some cold temps, the glow plugs are a concern. If you wish to save $$ and gain performance from the glow plugs, note that the glow plugs from a JD model X-740 or X-495 are exact replacements but cheaper!
A plus is that they are the 'quick-heat' style, in other words they heat up very quickly, unlike the 1512 glow plugs (and their replacements) This saves on the battery, a ~10 second pre-heat using the Deere/Yanmar glow plugs instead of a 30-40 second with stock parts yields the same results in extreme cold while being less of a factor on battery draw down.
Not sure what 'off the shelf' driveshaft would fit from CC, obviously the 1782 would be too long as it is a Super. I wonder out loud how close the 1864 shaft would be?
Couple other thoughts: while the engine is pulled, loook over the engine cradle for cracking; this occurs on the vertical section near the motor mounts.
Also note that the cradle prevents starter removal, you may want to examine this if possible to make a clearance cut(?)
Since you also see some cold temps, the glow plugs are a concern. If you wish to save $$ and gain performance from the glow plugs, note that the glow plugs from a JD model X-740 or X-495 are exact replacements but cheaper!
jdiederichs
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- Jim Diederichs
Don, one more suggestion for your pump and shaft; give Scott at Madsen's a call. He is one of the sponsors listed at the top of the page and may have a good method of expiditing parts up north. When I worked at Kohler I'd use Fed Ex, they seemed to handle Canadian parcels best and without undo delay.
Scott is a great guy and will do his best to help you. He deals in new and used CC parts and may have some of the cv joint driveshafts as well as a good pump, such as from a 782 or equivilent Sunstrand.
Scott is a great guy and will do his best to help you. He deals in new and used CC parts and may have some of the cv joint driveshafts as well as a good pump, such as from a 782 or equivilent Sunstrand.
Jim Diederichs
Things are looking up for me lol. I have 2 address in the US of A that will forward my parts so now I only have to find the parts I need. The CV drive shaft and a used ported pump.
I have a thought if I had a CV shaft for a super that was to long I would weld in a square slip spline to conect the two pieces. Could you tell me if this idea will float (work).I know a super is longer and this way I could make the shaft any length and make it fit. also with frame flex the the spline will slide to where its less stressed under load. Can you tell me if this will work??
Also can`t I just replace the main shaft in the pump, it shure would be better for shipping. But I have no clue as to the work involved.
Thanks Don T
Things are looking up for me lol. I have 2 address in the US of A that will forward my parts so now I only have to find the parts I need. The CV drive shaft and a used ported pump.
I have a thought if I had a CV shaft for a super that was to long I would weld in a square slip spline to conect the two pieces. Could you tell me if this idea will float (work).I know a super is longer and this way I could make the shaft any length and make it fit. also with frame flex the the spline will slide to where its less stressed under load. Can you tell me if this will work??
Also can`t I just replace the main shaft in the pump, it shure would be better for shipping. But I have no clue as to the work involved.
Thanks Don T
mhomrighausen
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By Kraig McConaughey "Keeper of the Photos" (Kmcconaughey) on Friday, January 06, 2006 - 02:14 pm:
This just in from Marlin Homrighausen:
--------------------------------------------------------------------------------
quote:
Okay. Now this is what the Sauer Sunstrand Service Manual BLN-9646. Rev E August 1992 says about what is recommended for the 15U Series pumps. SECTION 3 Fluid Recommendations. Page 10
CHARACTERISTICS should include: Viscosity. Oxidation, Shear Stability, Thermal Stability, Low Temperature Fluidity, Anti-Foam, Water Compatibility, Rust Inhibition, Anti-Wear Properties, Filtration Limitations.
Following Types used Successfully in the hydrostatic transmission in order from the book.
(1) Anti-wear hydraulic oil
(2) automatic transmission fluid - Type "F"
(3) hydraulic transmission fluid (type used by the Agricultural industry for combined transmission, hydraulic and wet brake systems)
(4) For a required fire resistant fluid... Pydraul 312 is satisfactory.
It further states that most of the above mentioned fluid types have acceptable viscosity charastics in the 0 degree to 200 degree F operating range. Selected fluids should provide a minimun viscosity of 47 SUS @ 210 degrees F and 6000 SUS maximum measured viscosity at the lowest expected startup temperature.
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<font color="0000ff">I did a little search of the archives and came up with this</font>......
...}}}
This just in from Marlin Homrighausen:
--------------------------------------------------------------------------------
quote:
Okay. Now this is what the Sauer Sunstrand Service Manual BLN-9646. Rev E August 1992 says about what is recommended for the 15U Series pumps. SECTION 3 Fluid Recommendations. Page 10
CHARACTERISTICS should include: Viscosity. Oxidation, Shear Stability, Thermal Stability, Low Temperature Fluidity, Anti-Foam, Water Compatibility, Rust Inhibition, Anti-Wear Properties, Filtration Limitations.
Following Types used Successfully in the hydrostatic transmission in order from the book.
(1) Anti-wear hydraulic oil
(2) automatic transmission fluid - Type "F"
(3) hydraulic transmission fluid (type used by the Agricultural industry for combined transmission, hydraulic and wet brake systems)
(4) For a required fire resistant fluid... Pydraul 312 is satisfactory.
It further states that most of the above mentioned fluid types have acceptable viscosity charastics in the 0 degree to 200 degree F operating range. Selected fluids should provide a minimun viscosity of 47 SUS @ 210 degrees F and 6000 SUS maximum measured viscosity at the lowest expected startup temperature.
--------------------------------------------------------------------------------
<font color="0000ff">I did a little search of the archives and came up with this</font>......
jdiederichs
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- Jim Diederichs
Don,
IF that hydro pump has a 5/8" driveshaft wouldn't you be able to cut it off to length and drill the 1/4" hole?
I like your idea of the square slip tube if you can true it up, if not it'll be rough on the bearings etc. The c.v. couplings have proven themselves for years, so going that route makes so much sense. Hang in there, you'll have a great tractor that will be your favorite!!
IF that hydro pump has a 5/8" driveshaft wouldn't you be able to cut it off to length and drill the 1/4" hole?
I like your idea of the square slip tube if you can true it up, if not it'll be rough on the bearings etc. The c.v. couplings have proven themselves for years, so going that route makes so much sense. Hang in there, you'll have a great tractor that will be your favorite!!
guys I have the replacement pump shaft on order form vincent ochiuto . Its for a 1450 and should be the same as I have here. He will take the shaft out and send me just the main shaft from the hydro he has there. So now I just have to find the drive shaft from a Cub with both CV joints so I can make up the slip splines and bolt it in.I will make a call in the am and see what I can find for a shaft. thanks Don T
Jim Diederichs
(IF that hydro pump has a 5/8" drive shaft wouldn't you be able to cut it off to length and drill the 1/4" hole? )
the problem is Jim the PO welded the stub shaft fast to the pump and then filed it to clean up. So the pump end is not round like it was,I don`t think that it would be a tight fit for the bracket for the joint now. I hate to repair a repair later so I don`t want to cut corners on the drive shaft rebuild. So I`am looking for a drive shaft now with CV joints. I do hope to find one soon. thanks for your help and saving me $$ with the rubber mounts . Later Don T
(IF that hydro pump has a 5/8" drive shaft wouldn't you be able to cut it off to length and drill the 1/4" hole? )
the problem is Jim the PO welded the stub shaft fast to the pump and then filed it to clean up. So the pump end is not round like it was,I don`t think that it would be a tight fit for the bracket for the joint now. I hate to repair a repair later so I don`t want to cut corners on the drive shaft rebuild. So I`am looking for a drive shaft now with CV joints. I do hope to find one soon. thanks for your help and saving me $$ with the rubber mounts . Later Don T
