Mower Shaking

[Poczik15]

I have a IH cub cadet 1282. I'm having a problem with shaking. Not when engaging pto. Just when starting and while running. It's not an extreme shake by any means just seems to be more of a shake then it should be. An I would like to try an tackle the problem before it gets to far along. I checked the motor mounts they where all tight. What is the next step I should take??

 

[kmcconaughey]

Could be the flexible disc coupling on the driveshaft is wearing/worn out. Remove the tunnel cover and you should be able to see the flexible disc coupling. Here's a photo of one on a different model but it should look similar enough.

 

[Poczik15]

Maybe a dumb question.. but what's a good way to know if its wearing/ worn out?

 

[mgonitzke]

-Remove the frame cover and grab either end of the driveshaft. You shouldn't be able to deflect it in any direction.
-Look at it to see if anything is visibly bad, i.e. torn rubber coupler.
-Run the engine with the frame cover off (taking care to keep all appendages well clear of the driveshaft) and observe whether or not it is wobbling, and where.

 

[Poczik15]

I did notice it had a slight bit of slop in the shaft that joins into what I believe is the blower housing? On the tail end of the engine?

 

[bmader]

I have two cub 149's ,I worked on the driveshaft,ie. fan and flex coupler on one ,and it idles smooth with very little to no shake. I too noticed the shakes on the second one so took the frame cover off to inspect and sure enough the flex coupler is the culprit, does make it easier when you have the same units next to each other and can compare a known good one to the bad one first hand. Just ordered all the parts from
Charlie Procter.

 

[rrschmitt]

I believe the engine on your 1282 is isomounted similar to the Quietline series. There are rubber mounts that wear out from many years of use and need to be replaced. When the mounts wear out, it allows your single cylinder 12 hp Kohler to move around and the engine vibration is transmitted directly into the frame so you will notice more vibration. Check the mounts, items 1, 3, 4 in the picture. They are likely shot. See the sponsors in the colorful boxes at the top of the page for getting new mounts.

 

[Poczik15]

Heres what I found.... not sure what the term iso mount means. I googled it an found nothing. But my engine mount is the orange circle an the rubber vibration dampener is blue. The rubber is super sloppy. Idk if I just need to tightened them up? Or if they are ment to be what the engine mounts on... also the couplings look an feel shot. And shaft def has a wobble. But it looks as if there are 2 rubber couplings on the front an back end of the shaft. Is that actually one coupler that looks like 2?

 

[digger]

Heres what I found.... not sure what the term iso mount means. I googled it an found nothing. But my engine mount is the orange circle an the rubber vibration dampener is blue. The rubber is super sloppy. Idk if I just need to tightened them up? Or if they are ment to be what the engine mounts on... also the couplings look an feel shot. And shaft def has a wobble. But it looks as if there are 2 rubber couplings on the front an back end of the shaft. Is that actually one coupler that looks like 2?

Your one mount that we can see is good, the Flex coupler on the other hand is toast/ripped/broke.

 

[kmcconaughey]

Yes, there appear to be two flexible coupling discs on each end of the drive shaft. As Digger noted one on the front is toast. You'll want to replace both of the discs that are on the engine end of the drive shaft. ISO is short for isolation. Basically they isolate some of the engine vibration from the frame. Here's the part number for the flexible coupling disc:

EDIT: I just noticed that the Parts Lookup auto filled the quantity to "4", I assume from that, that the two on each end is standard on the 1282.

 

[dschwandt]

Replace 'em all and be done with it.
Check the driveshaft for trueness also while you have it out and would be a good time to check the couplers on both ends and replace the spirol pins as well.

 

[Poczik15]

Will I need to unmount the engine to get the drive shaft out?

 

[dschwandt]

Not familiar with the 1282 but it Would probably be easier if you could scoot it forward a bit and a good chance to clean house in there while it is loose.

 

[dijohnson]

Now I am confused. Is there two rag joint pieces on the front and back? My 1650 only had one. Should it have two on each end? I have a vibration problem also.

 

[snicklas]

Now I am confused. Is there two rag joint pieces on the front and back? My 1650 only had one. Should it have two on each end? I have a vibration problem also.

No, Quietlines are different.. if I remember correctly, the front has 1 and the back has 2.

 

[kmcconaughey]

Now I am confused. Is there two rag joint pieces on the front and back? My 1650 only had one. Should it have two on each end? I have a vibration problem also.

From the Parts Lookup for the 1650, note that the quantity is auto filled to 3. I believe Scott is correct, one in front, two at the rear.

 

[digger]

Now I am confused. Is there two rag joint pieces on the front and back? My 1650 only had one. Should it have two on each end? I have a vibration problem also.

Go download the service manual, that will help you a bunch. Cub Cadet Specialties Manuals

 

[dijohnson]

Thanks for the CC spec manual. All the pics show 1 rag Joint at rear. Then I found at serial # 622 952 up they take two. I will have to check my number.

 

[bpientka]

The ends of the driveshaft ride in bushings. Carefully check the bushing in the engine mount (below picture) and the bushing by the hydro (in last driveshaft coupler). As well as the two ends of the driveshaft for wear.

With your vibration the driveshaft and bushings might be gone.

Good luck!

 

[dijohnson]

Still confused. It says two rag joints used above serial 622952. My frame number is 2050670U558100. Can someone tell me where I am going wrong.