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Mower Blade Nut Frozen

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Matthew Martin

New member
Joined
Jan 6, 2022
Messages
2
Location
SC
Hello there. I have a 1978 1250 Hydro. The blades on the mower deck need sharpened, but I can't get the nuts off. Before I try drastic measures like a cheater bar, I want to make sure that the threads are all right handed. I can't find that info anywhere. Thanks in advance.
 
Hello there. I have a 1978 1250 Hydro. The blades on the mower deck need sharpened, but I can't get the nuts off. Before I try drastic measures like a cheater bar, I want to make sure that the threads are all right handed. I can't find that info anywhere. Thanks in advance.
Yes they are all right hand thread. Block the blade with a 2x4. grab the biggest cheater you have or an impact wrench and let-r-eat! Put anti-seize on when you put them back on.
 
Hello there. I have a 1978 1250 Hydro. The blades on the mower deck need sharpened, but I can't get the nuts off. Before I try drastic measures like a cheater bar, I want to make sure that the threads are all right handed. I can't find that info anywhere. Thanks in advance.
Matt, if all wrenching fails, the top nut holding pulley can be removed> then the main shaft can be carefully driven out the bottom.(use a punch and stay centered) the blade will come with it.Then a vise and a torch comes in handy. If you torch while on the deck you may ruin the bearing seal...
 
Matt, if all wrenching fails, the top nut holding pulley can be removed> then the main shaft can be carefully driven out the bottom.(use a punch and stay centered) the blade will come with it.Then a vise and a torch comes in handy. If you torch while on the deck you may ruin the bearing seal...

That only works on the much older cast iron housing spindles with tapered roller bearings, and the newer replacement aluminum housing spindles with the same bearings. If he has the "water pump" style bearings with the stamped steel housings that the deck originally came with, this will not work.
 
Matt, you got me on that one...Never heard of water pump style bearings.....so much to learn,so little time ...thanks for the input...I redid a 1330 last yr ,they were straight thru......he did say 78 so it was before mtd...I need to pay more attention
 
Yes ,the kano,put the deck upside down,in a spot where you walk by and conveniently can lube it often and try it.Eventially you'll get it,sounds like someone really reefed on it,on installation. That nut being tight to specs is very important,but over doing it is not at all good either.
 
Yes ,the kano,put the deck upside down,in a spot where you walk by and conveniently can lube it often and try it.Eventially you'll get it,sounds like someone really reefed on it,on installation. That nut being tight to specs is very important,but over doing it is not at all good either.
Tight to specs? Can't say as I ever torqued a blade nut! :roflol:Zip it off and zip it back on and go!(y)
 
Tight to specs? Can't say as I ever torqued a blade nut! :roflol:Zip it off and zip it back on and go!(y)

Charlie - WHAT the ????? You don't even follow your own rules???? RFM!!!! Here's a cut/paste from the 1x8/9 and QL Service Manual Section 3

1641586504173.png
 
Charlie - WHAT the ????? You don't even follow your own rules???? RFM!!!! Here's a cut/paste from the 1x8/9 and QL Service Manual Section 3

View attachment 147216
You seem to forget buddy!!!!!! I'm the one that stopped that crap! And I do take offense at being the instigator of it!!!!! The democracy of 2 died when I wrote the check for this place!
 
My practice has been to block the blade with a 2x4, and impact the nut off. I use a sliding Tee handle and a deadblow 3lb hammer, as I don't have an air compressor. Grease threads before reassembly.
 
I zip mine off with a 1/2 air impact.. clean threads if need be with a wire brush.. Coat threads with anti-seez as the moisture in the grass can make the nut freeze on.. Tighten with air wrench to 2 chugga chuggas..Ready to mow...
 
Zip off, zip on with a half inch impact. That's all I have ever done for as long as I can remember. No grease, no anti-seize, no drama. If you don't have an air compressor, buy a battery impact, you won't be sorry.
 
Make your own penetrating lube: acetone and transmission fluid, the more acetone the more penetration.
 
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