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Model 100 with tiller

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Well Thomas - figured it might be time for me to pop in and say something. I've been around this rodeo for some time now. It used to be strictly prohibited to "ask what something was worth" on this Forum. That appears to have changed now so here's what I have to say about your Model 100 with cast-end deck and a Tiller. (And for what it's worth, most of the members on here already know my posts are fairly long winded :)

1st, prices are very very sensitive to location. In Indiana your Tiller appears to be worth BIG money, which surprises me. These Tillers had been fairly common across most of the Mid-west and I believed they were priced in the $100-$300 range depending mostly on condition. I don't really consider PA to be in the Mid-west but believed Tillers were fairly common there as well. The problem in PA is the rust. Yours look pretty typical to me for a PA tiller, and generally would be worth less compared to the mid-west. Along the east coast tillers aren't as common and tend to be worth more "at the right time of year" (basically spring). Complete Tillers with the right-angle gear box would sell for $200-400 and maybe even slightly more if they were in terrific condition. Since many are only really used for a short period during the year they are often in really nice condition even tho they are 40-50 years old.
You don't show a pic of the tines which are critical, and very expensive to replace, if you can even still find replacements. The rest of the tiller parts had been fairly bullet proof BUT in recent years I've heard of things actually wearing out. They are not really designed to be re-built. I had a machinist friend that did completely dis-assemble and rebuilt one, and he had to actually make several of the parts. The cover for your belt guard is missing in the pic so lots of things normally somewhat covered have been exposed and appear rusted, so I have to wonder about the condition of everything else.
You don't show a pic of the right-angle gear box which does fail on occasion, at least the bottom pulley, sometimes the internal bearings, and hopefully not either of the shafts. These boxes can be expensive to rebuild and use 3:2 ratio gears. While a fair number of snow thrower gear boxes are around and appear pretty much the same, they aren't direct replacements since they generally have 2:1 ratio gears.
So, all in all, based on what I can see of your tiller and can't see of your right angle gearbox, and assuming you can demonstrate that it works good and the tines are in fair shape I'd say it's worth about $100-200.
Now, it's not clear to me if you're going to sell the Model 100 tractor or not. It also looks pretty rough and rusted up to me. I see several holes on the frame have been added. The fenders are not correct and neither are the wheel weights. It's missing the front grill, doesn't have the correct seat, and tires look to be in rough worn condition. One nice thing is having the lights. All in all, even tho it's got all that typical PA rust, and assuming the engine runs good and the clutch shifts good, I'd say the tractor itself with the cast end mowing deck is probably worth around $150-250. If you were located in the Mid-west or more on the east coast it might be worth a little more, but my guess is your tractor does need some work to really get it back to good operating condition.
So - hope my info helps you out. You don't have a Gold mine. You've just got an old IH Cub Cadet that could be restored.
BTW Harry how was the big move?
 

Thomas

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Hello Harry, I want to say thank you for your explanation of my old !00 Cub. Well here's the thing, this tractor as I said has sat for 25 years, half of its life, in my friends shed. He drove it in there right after tilling the garden for his wife. I removed the tiller so I could work easier on the tractor, I want to only clean, replace whatever needs to be replaced, for example the tires went flat while sitting and the mule drive pulleys rusted off the bottom half cuz they were in the dirt. I have 2 new ones here in the box to put on. The engine runs very good, the tiller turns over, i turned the right angle gearbox by hand and it felt very smooth. Yes there is rust on this ole girl but just a lot of surface rust is all, nothing rotted away. The fenders on this were very well made, either 3/32 or 1/8" plate, bent and fabricated, nice job whoever did it. I am not going to remove them. I just want to repair this tractor, by the way I have been working on Cubs for many years. I want to clean and paint after getting all the mechanical done, and then I will also do the mower deck, then I will put it out next to the road with a for sale sign on it. I had a Mod. 70 here about 3 years ago, it did not have the original motor, someone put and 8 horse in it, but I fixed it and sold for $500 the same day I put it out there, AS FAR AS THE TILLER, I WILL OFFER IT UP FOR SALE AND ANYONE THAT WANTS IT FOR $150 OR A LITTLE LESS CAN HAVE IT, I HAVE NO USE FOR IT. (WHOOPS i HIT THE CAPS LOCK) I will put it on pallet and move it to my back yard and I will cover it with a tarp. When I first got this I thought it would be a good one to put on here but I guess I was wrong, so thanks again Harry, at least you stepped up and told me what they are worth, I respect you for that, have a good Memorial day weekend. Tom
 

awoloch

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Harry, I enjoyed reading your detailed comments and observations. I was wondering about those angled fenders since they were not rounded like the nice used pair I had bought and installed on my Cub Cadet 100 several years ago. I was also wondering whether or not those rear wheel weights are original parts for a Cub Cadet 100. Thank you for clearing that up. How do you identify the correct (i.e., original) wheel weights for a Cub Cadet 100? Is there a unique part number marked or cast on them? Thomas, yours are the first photos I've ever seen of an IH tiller for a Cub Cadet 100. Pretty cool attachment for working the soil. Thank you for sharing your photos. Hope your Cub Cadet 100 finds a good home and is restored!
 

spndncash

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Thomas, if you restore the 100 please post pictures. 100 and the 70 are my favorite models I love the protruding grill, the dash, the fenders- all of it.
I understand you not wanting the tiller. I have sold and re-bought tillers at least five times.
Now I have room to keep it and the tractor it is mounted on indoors. They are SO handy when you actually need it and are in the way the other 364 days of the year. (dont tell my wife but I have two). as far as your sale- a certain online auction site has several listed right now for 400-500 dollars. as with anything its worth what makes the seller and buyer both happy
Best of luck in your sale.
 

Thomas

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Thank you, I am only interested in making a few bucks on this tractor. I am going to clean it, replace all parts that need to be replaced, and I am going to sand and paint it. I am not interested in a total restore, as I buy these tractors to fix and sell only. As far as the tiller I am also going to sand it and repaint, I am going to straighten the trailing cover, the one that hangs down, and put a new hinge pin in it. I checked the tines and they look really good, not worn very much at all. Am trying to find a pulley cover that is missing for it. iF ANYONE KNOWS WHERE THERE IS ONE PLEASE LET ME KNOW. tHANKS GUYS, HAVE A GREAT DAY. whoops I hit the caps lock again! Oh and you are right, I think these tillers will only bring what someone is willing to pay for one, there seems to be a bunch of them out there. I have seen and heard of different prices for them.
 

hydroharry

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Well - I see a few questions back to me so here goes.

Anthony W - the correct cast iron IH wheel weights are pretty easy to spot once you know what they look like. They are correct for all IH Cub Cadets (Original thru 82 series) and weigh 26# each. I don't know if IH made any heavier weights towards the end but CCC made 75# concrete covered with plastic (and they are monsters). The IH 26# cast iron weights were also used on the front of the IH Cub (those with 12" wheels). For some odd reason (unknown to me) the IH cast iron weights have a large letter "L" cast into them along with an "IH" stamp which is often hard to see. I've also seen some that have a part number as part of the casting. And BEWARE, there are some known knock-offs out there, generally without any markings.

Charlie - hey the move went pretty well. The only bad part was having to get rid of my stuff. The company I worked for had moved me twice (without limitations) so I had 30+ years of accumulation, and since I was paying for the move this time I had to let alot of stuff go. I didn't even move my 169 - but got her in my Son's shop, and hope to hear her run at least once a year.

Tom - I see you put a price of $150 on the tiller. I'd have to say that seems pretty good to me. Couple things still bother me tho. You said the pulleys on the mule drive rusted off because they were sitting in the ground. If that's the case then what condition is the bottom pulley on the right angle gear box? If it's the cast iron version it's probably ok, but they often times get chipped because they are so close to the ground. You also mentioned it was just surface rust - but in the pics it sure looks like it's got pitting rust starting to show. Seems to me that $150 is probably a pretty fair price as is. If you clean up the rust, straighten that cover and clean up the gear box and make sure the grease inside is fresh and not all dried up after sitting 25 years, and prime the painted parts with a good etching primer and then paint her up nice, well that work should make it worth alot more than $150. And you asked about that cover for the large pulley that's missing - unfortunately it's fairly common to be missing. The dang things gets loose and starts rattling so guys just seem to take them off. Hardly ever see a cover for sale and when you do they are like $75 so I doubt you want to add one just to sell it.
Now, about the 100 tractor - if you do all the things you mentioned, and it turns out well and mows well you might get $500 for the ole girl, but it just depends. It still seems a little high to me - but that could just be me. I don't like to see holes cut in the frame (close to where the factory holes for the Creeper shift lever and breather are located) and that hole in the side of the dash support pedestal. In my view the more original the tractor is the more it's worth. You do have what appear to be the original front headlights and they are worth additional. You might be better off selling those headlights separate from the tractor. I would recommend you find the rubber handle shift knob. There are lots of them out there.
Have fun working on it and good luck selling.
 

Thomas

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Hello, I just wat to say that it was just the front end of the tractor in the dirt, the tires went flat and those pulleys being under where they are became the victim of rot. It is all that did that. The rear tires were never flat and the right angle gear box was never in the dirt. It is in good shape. Now I am looking for a grill and the knob as you referred to. I will get to that also. I am still looking for the serial #, I cannot find it anywhere!! :) I ripped all of the steering apart yesterday and polished up the king pins (if that is what they were called) and tightened up the steering box as it was jumping around like a fish out of water. Hey anyone, does this steering box have a cam follower in it? I can't see it if it does. This has a few holes in it but I have a good friend who is a great certified welder who can close up all those spots, you won't even know they were there.
 

hydroharry

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Tom - the steering box does have a cam follower. It's a slotted head screw on the side of the box and held in place with a jam nut (can't recall the size of the nut). Best if you download a service manual available on here, and follow the instructions for overhauling. Worst case you can tighten the cam follower by rotating it 90degrees (which rotates it off the flat spot that's wore into it over time). If you do have your welder friend fix those holes make sure you leave the opens that are for the Creeper lever and breather.
 

Thomas

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Tom - the steering box does have a cam follower. It's a slotted head screw on the side of the box and held in place with a jam nut (can't recall the size of the nut). Best if you download a service manual available on here, and follow the instructions for overhauling. Worst case you can tighten the cam follower by rotating it 90degrees (which rotates it off the flat spot that's wore into it over time). If you do have your welder friend fix those holes make sure you leave the opens that are for the Creeper lever and breather.
okay well I haven't got around to getting this pressure washed yet because my fuel tank on a pressure washer was leaking and I had to order another one there is a lot of grease on the box and I do know what they look like so I will air pressure washer soon as I get a new tank and I will adjust that up as I have done with my 1811 I've actually replace that cam follower I probably will have to do that with this a lot of play in the steering I love working on easel Cub Cadet so I've been working on them for years great great machines.
here are a couple of pictures of the rototiller tines someone mentioned in one of the post the other day is that they they hadn't seen the the time so here they are 20200524_171644.jpg20200524_171546.jpg
Tom - the steering box does have a cam follower. It's a slotted head screw on the side of the box and held in place with a jam nut (can't recall the size of the nut). Best if you download a service manual available on here, and follow the instructions for overhauling. Worst case you can tighten the cam follower by rotating it 90degrees (which rotates it off the flat spot that's wore into it over time). If you do have your welder friend fix those holes make sure you leave the opens that are for the Creeper lever and breather.
yes I will do that I know that slotted hole is for the for the creeper box shifter handle
 

awoloch

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Anthony N. Woloch
Hi Harry. Thank you very much for your information and comments about identifying the correct IH wheel weights for a Cub Cadet 100. Your experience and reply is much appreciated! My October 1964 Cub Cadet 100 will also eventually need the following original IH parts: gear shift knob (mine is cracked and bound with duct tape); front hood ornament; Kohler engine muffler (this tractor had a tall vertical stack muffler when I bought it in 1987), and a pair of wheels for the 38" mower deck (it only has one wheel now). I recently bought used front headlights, used headlight switch, NOS rear reflectors, new wiring harness, and a few other goodies that still need to be installed when I can make the time. New AmerIcan-made tractor tires (do they exist anymore?) would be icing on the cake. I haven't run my Cub Cadet 100 since the 1987 mowing season back in Central Illinois. The next year, I bought a new John Deere 318 with a 3-blade 50" mower deck and powered cut grass collection setup and stored my Cub Cadet 100 indoors ever since. I still have both tractors now home in Colorado. Good luck with your home move!
 

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