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Manual Lift Arm

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glippert

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Greg Lippert
John - If it's spinning, my guess would be that the inner rod is broken. If you check out the link that Kraig provided above, you'll find several posts about the manual lift and how to repair. My understanding is that the rockshaft would prevent a broke rod from falling out the bottom on a narrow frame, hence Kraig's question, "What model". Based on your previous posts, it appears you have a 104? But I still don't know how it could spin around and then go back up into the ratchet cogs (referred to as the "quadrant" in the posts. I don't know anything about narrow frames, but you'll probably have to remove the entire rock shaft and lift arm assembly to get to the bottom of your problem.

On my 1250 there's nothing below the ratchet, so if the rod slid down far enough to spin, it would fall all the way to the ground. (see photo)

1584375451193.png
 

Beltrack

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John - If it's spinning, my guess would be that the inner rod is broken. If you check out the link that Kraig provided above, you'll find several posts about the manual lift and how to repair. My understanding is that the rockshaft would prevent a broke rod from falling out the bottom on a narrow frame, hence Kraig's question, "What model". Based on your previous posts, it appears you have a 104? But I still don't know how it could spin around and then go back up into the ratchet cogs (referred to as the "quadrant" in the posts. I don't know anything about narrow frames, but you'll probably have to remove the entire rock shaft and lift arm assembly to get to the bottom of your problem.

On my 1250 there's nothing below the ratchet, so if the rod slid down far enough to spin, it would fall all the way to the ground. (see photo)

View attachment 137165
Thanks for your response. I have a 104 and a 109. It is the 109 that is the problem. I’m sorry I didn’t clarify that at the outset.
 

CaptainShwammy

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Do you have an air compressor? If so you can use a blower nozzle and a piece of tubing filled with penetrant to fire a shot up the tube from the bottom. Worked on mine.
The bottom piece had broken off the lift rod. I had to jack it up really high, almost flipped it to get it out. Also had to bend it a little but it straightened right out.
I plan on welding a new piece of rod to it and keeping it for when the new used one wears out.
Also I would recommend eye protection as it's a messy affair. My glasses saved me when I did it. I used locking pliers to grab the broken end on the bottom and another pair to grab and turn the button on top. It's a fine thread I think, and only about 5/16 of an inch of the rod is threaded.
 

kmcconaughey

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Kraig McConaughey

Here's the exploded parts view of the 109 lift. Item #8 is referred to as a "Retainer Spring" I'm thinking that perhaps for some reason the rod item #5 is dropping below the guides cast into item #10. Perhaps the spring item #7 is weak and/or #5 is broken. Or perhaps most likely, item #10 is broken at the bottom where the rod comes out. The 109 is slightly different than the 1250 that Greg posted the photo of above, but might be close enough to compare to. Note how the bottom has cast in guides to prevent the rod from turning. That's hanging down under the chassis and could be broken on a rock or curb if you drive over one high enough.

CC109 Lift.JPG
 

snicklas

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Scott Nicklas
You can also use brake fluid. I've used it with success to free up brake bleeders. It's better than any penetrant oil I've found... just my .02¢ 👍

One word of warning with brake fluid, it is one of the "best" paint removers out there. Even a drop will almost immediately blister the paint. I'm sure most have seen this, but just a warning if you've never experienced it.
 

Beltrack

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Thanks to the folks here, I now have a can of Kroil. If the purpose of fire hosing oil up the tube is to loosen the button, then I’m in luck - - my button is free.

Now I need to hook a come-along to a rafter and lift the sucker up. Or, when the snow melts, chain it to my loader tractor and lift her.

Thanks all.

John
 

Beltrack

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Well, outta curiosity, I grabbed hold of the “L” portion and the knob up top and the rod at least “feels” connected. Is there any other reason the whole rod would be able to spin around?
 

glippert

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Greg Lippert
Well, outta curiosity, I grabbed hold of the “L” portion and the knob up top and the rod at least “feels” connected. Is there any other reason the whole rod would be able to spin around?
Did you look at the bottom casting (#10 in the diagram above)? As Kraig mentioned, if that piece is broken, the rod could turn. It doesn't show very clearly in the photo I posted above, but that casting should have a slot built in, for the L-bend to slide up & down without being able to turn. If everything feels connected and spring loaded inside the arm, that's the only thing I can think of. (Actually, Kraig thought of it.) Good luck.
 

CaptainShwammy

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If the rod is like the one on my 108 its two pieces welded together making a 90 at the bottom. I______ < like that. The short piece broke off from the long rod and I had to lock the button down, then clamp locking pliers onto what was sticking out then unlock the button and turn the button off with another pair of locking pliers.
 
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