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Looking for 782 parts

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jkoenig

In Remembrance 2023
Joined
Sep 14, 2002
Messages
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Jim Koenig Halfway between Harvester, MO and Cadet, MO
I have just acquired a 782 project tractor. I am still learning what all it needs. Here is the wish list for now:

-Driveshaft, complete from engine to hydro with all couplers, rag joints, and fan, or any portion thereof.

1618100861562.png

-Item 3 ( lower heat shroud )in the above parts drawing
-Driveshaft tunnel cover
-Steering column with box

Those should make it a running, driving, buttoned up tractor. Mower deck, rear lift, tiller, push blade, snow blower come later.

I'm in St. Louis, but travel for work, and could possibly be interested in the smaller items even when I fly out of town, so I'm open to nationwide sellers.
Thank you
 
I am in central Indiana near Greencastle. I have the tunnel cover. It is off a different model (probably a 1450) but should fit. It is free if that will help.
 
Thank you William.

I really like that “Best” price! I get through Indiana often, but I am not sure when the next time will be. Others have told me-possibly also assuming- that wideframe tunnel covers still fit the 82s.

I’m pretty sure I will be there in June if not before. I have a parts installation visit in Elkhart coming up.
 
Thanks for checking.
 
I have located most of the above items that my tractor needed. It still needs that lower front engine cooling tin (item 3 in diagram), but I may just have to bend a cookie sheet, or something like that to get by.

Thanks to all of you who helped by sending out feelers, checked fits, and offered freebies.
 
I am now looking for a rear lift. My frame has no pivot bushings, so I will need those, or I can get them from Digger. They seem to be the only component he has for this currently.
 
A 782 would use the Frankenstine Bolts to hold the rear rockshaft in the frame. My Quietlines use the same setup, and I could take a picture if you need it. Only the early Quietlines and the Wide Frames (1x8/9) have the bushing in the frame and the long pin through both frame rails, both bushing and the rockshaft.
 
Thank you Scott. No photos needed. I have shopped them on Digger’s site. My last parts source just asked me if I had them in the frame, so he was probably not thinking model-specific. He must have parted a ton of tractors. He had what looked to be dozens of driveshafts like I needed.
 
My search for a 782 rear lift is not going well. I can buy most of the parts new, but no place seems to have the casting in stock. If anyone notices an ad for one near them, please let me know, and I will try to figure out a deal.

Thank you.
 
Shane, thanks for the review, and the suggestion. It's on my someday list, and if I don't find a sleeve hitch soon, I may have to get the Xtreme unit...at least that'll be the wife story.

I searched CL and found/bothered a guy in Iowa who thought he had one, but it turned out to be for a 1650 which left me still having to buy a bunch of related parts to build a complete unit, which pushed the cost close to the Cat. 0.
 
I had the International style on my 782 but while aerating with a 4' drum aerator the bolts holding the lower bracket to the rear end housing pulled out damaging the casting.
I was able to remove the lower bracket and reseal the plate with the few remaining threads left deeper in the bolt holes but I no longer had enough to risk attaching anything to it so I ordered the kit and now I have no worries about pulling anything the tractor has enough traction to move.

This is a picture of that aerator connected to my old 149
aerator.jpg


I have a cat 0 to sleeve hitch adapter so I can still use most of my other implements on the 782.
 
Looks just like the one I built for my 882!
I made it for a drawbar and use an adaptor for use with the Cat 0
Sure works slick being able to pick it up to skip over drives and sidewalks as well as backing into corners and such.
Did my de-thatcher the same way.
 
Since the 782 is working as a unit now (not that I got the seat time-my son got to plow the neighborhood with it), I am looking for the proper light switch. Mine is broken off, and I have no idea if it was correct. I did not see any listed at CCS, or at Houtz, or at IHCCW.

E0B3FCF1-93AC-4B6D-A5A9-7879128C2DC0.jpeg


No Longer Needed! Thanks LP!
 
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The light switch is the one click back on the ignition switch when it is in the run position.
That broken one is not the light switch, maybe it turns the light on in the kitchen.
 
Thanks very much Lewis. I'll have to trace those wires someday.

Now I can order those LED bulbs without delay searching for a switch.
 
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Update:
For whatever reason, that broken off switch is for the lights. I may have a bad or wrong ignition switch, but at least I know how they are supposed to work. Thanks again LP.
 
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