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tkhoffman

Well-known member
Joined
Oct 2, 2013
Messages
613
Location
Northern NEW YORK
displayname
Tony Hoffman
I'm sure this has been discussed many times. The search engine doesn't work on the phone I'm on so, here I am asking instead of reading.
Any personal accounts of a " oh man, it starts so much better" experience? I don't doubt it helps the life of points, I don't doubt it delivers a better spark but is it a noticeable difference? Just hoping to get my cub to start with less crank cycles in the cold. Yes yes, timing is good, points are set, plugs are good, oil weight is reduced battery is on trickle up to time I need the tractor. I can't blame it for being cranky in 5 degree F. Just trying to help it
Thanks
 
One thing I've noticed with winter starts, though I'm in the part of Oregon that rarely sees 5*, is summer fuels don't "light off" as well in cold temps. When I have fresh gas bought in January through March, the engine is more responsive. I know that pump fuels are seasonally adjusted, so I assume the alcohol free gas I buy for the Cub is also winter friendly.
 
Greg is right on it.
If I recall the RVP (reid vapor pressure) is mandated for june-sept to be lower and higher in the winter months. you want the higher RVP sold in the winter to maximize the formation of vapor from the gasoline -liquid gas does not burn -the vapor does. You pull the choke to start a carbureted motor when cold -more gas in the combustion chamber means more fuel vapor. of course too much gas is bad too.
After about 20-40 seconds of running, the combustion chamber is hot enough to vaporize the gasoline that enters.
I want to say about 0 degrees there is a pretty good reduction in vapor formation and somewhere in the -40 to -45 range it will not vaporize at all. of course minimal friction heat from cranking in the engine raises the temperature quickly.
You want the lower RVP in the summer to minimize chances of vapor lock and loss of fuel to evaporation in the summer heat.
when it drops below 0, I go with a squirt of ether. You dont need much just enough to get the fire started.
 
Thanks folks. The gas is not an issue as I do buy fresh as the season goes on. Not blaming the engine... Many fresh snow mornings are in the minus digits. Big tractor and cars have block heaters but Tug (my 782) is out of the wind but still out in the cold. With all tje tin around the engine, No real surface area to put a magnet heater.
Thanks again
 
I'd say try a dipstick heater, but the minimum oil contact depth is usually 4". Not sure how deep a KT17 oil level is.
 
Put a magnetic heater on the rear end, the charge pump starts turning with the engine and cold oil is hard to turn.

^^^ THIS ^^^

I learned of this here on this forum decades ago and have been doing it ever since. It really helps! Here's the magnetic heater that I use:

MAGNETIC HEATER.jpg


Here's where I place it, note the red "X":

YellowUnderbelly.jpg
 
Put a magnetic heater on the rear end, the charge pump starts turning with the engine and cold oil is hard to turn.
Thanks, I have that already. When I anticipate overnight snow, I set a timer for about 2 hours before I want to use the machine. I like to finish the driveway before 6:00. I like to get the driveway and a chunk of the street cleared before the Town plow comes and piles snow where it shouldn't be.
 
What brand of battery and CCA does it have? I use Diehard gold, Duralast gold, and currently trying a Duracell. They have at least 435CCA. If you are using a cheaper 230CCA you might not have enough in the cold weather. I've learned a long time ago you need the higher CCA for winter use.
 
Well, I can say...noticeable difference!
Started the 1450 to get it out of the garage today, hasn't run in about 2 months and it fired on a crank and a half. Granted it's 60+ degrees out but it's never started this easy. Overall, Dave's got good stuff and I'm happy with the upgrades 👍😎👍
 
What brand of battery and CCA does it have? I use Diehard gold, Duralast gold, and currently trying a Duracell. They have at least 435CCA. If you are using a cheaper 230CCA you might not have enough in the cold weather. I've learned a long time ago you need the higher CCA for winter use.
These are U1 group batteries? Nothing taller will fit my 782.
 
These are U1 group batteries? Nothing taller will fit my 782.

This one is a U1 battery. Used this one in two of my tractors for winter work. It's actually 435CA and 350CCA. My bad.
 

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I've got Group 26 batteries for my 72 & 70, 600 + CCA, the 982 has the tiny U1 200 or 300 CCA, nothing bigger can fit under the seat.
You guys ever notice KRAIG'S #1 125 SNOW BLOWER tractor has a battery mount behind the rearend for more weight on rear tires, and more room for a bigger battery with more CCA.
 
The rear mounted battery and steel slab weight was on the 125 when I bought it. It was previously owned by the Gillette Company in St. Paul, MN. They traded it in on a new JD tractor back in 1992. I bought it from the JD equipment dealer, my brother is the parts manager there. I paid $300 for it with the windbreaker cab, a Dexter rotary broom, IH cast weights, two link tire chains and headlights. I added the extended draw bar and the lower supports under the weights. They had them suspended from the fenders which were bending from the weight.

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I have never weighed it or calculated its weight. I’m curious now so I might just have to calculate the weight.
 
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