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K model exhaust thread

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jjorgensen

Member
Joined
Sep 13, 2010
Messages
6
displayname
James M Jorgensen
Does anyone know the description of the exhaust port thread on the K model Kohler? I want to fabricate a custom header pipe but haven't identified the thread specs as of this typing. It definitely isn't taper pipe thread, it almost looks like a EMT straight thread. thanks in advance.
 
What model Kohler?
I believe they are female iron pipe thread
The K301 I just finished up was 1" And I have repaired several elbows with a short piece of 1" close nipple. Cut in half, it yields enough material to repair 2 elbows.
A K321 is 1" as well
The 341's are 1-1/8" IIRC
If not, I'm sure someone will call me on that.
 
James,my 321 exhaust threads are sloppy but noticed 2 threaded holes in flange area.cleaned them out with 5/16 18 tap. made a flange to bolt on but allow stock elbow to go thru then weld or braze...should seal pretty good..does yours have the bolt holes??? I think thread is 1" on exhaust also...
 
My particular project is on a '67 K291 (102).. I don't believe I have the flange holes you were describing Gary. The thread does appear to be 1" but straight threaded. I'm going to take the elbow and lock ring to civilization today and see what I can match it to
 
Dave, you're right and I really missed it. it IS a 1" pipe thread. I got some parts for my project thanks for your assistance!
 
If you need to repair the elbow threaded portion, find a 1" coupling and screw it onto the threads of the elbow.
Then screw a long nipple onto the coupling, it has to be long enough to fit in your band saw.

Then cut the threaded part off your elbow back of the bend far enough to get a nice square cut.

Then, measure and cut the threads off the nipple the same length as what you cut from the elbow and weld.

Wa La!! a nice clean repaired threaded elbow!!

I do 'em 2 at a time
 
Thanks for all your coaching and help Cub brethren!! The project was to build a custom external exhaust with a vertical muffler like the Farmall Cub. I took a 1" tap and chased the threads in the block, then used a close nipple followed by a 45 elbow to achieve a perpendicular line to the frame. Then I installed a 2" nipple and 2 45 elbows butt welded together to form a 90 degree "sweep" pointing up. Another 2" nipple vertically to clamp the muffler to. After I leveled and made it plumb to the tractor, I put a decent tack weld on all joints except the block. It pleases me so far LOL!
 
And when it vibrates and cracks the block you won't be so pleased.
 
Could someone please explain the "vibration cracking the block" thing in greater detail? This was mentioned to me before, would like to know more about it. From what I understand, if a tall muffler or pipe is installed but not secured enough, it will vibrate and crack the engine block? Where exactly will the block crack?

My 107 runs the stock muffler but with an extra 45 degree extension on the pipe coming out of the engine, allowing for it to mount outside the hood vertically. The upper bracket that would have bolted to the heat shield is removed to keep it from rubbing on the hood. Prev. owner ran his other 107 with the same setup no problem, but he had cut a hole in the hood to clear the muffler bracket. Muffler is mounted very securely and does not seem to have any vibration to it other than the normal shaking of the entire tractor.
IMG_20200909_181907.jpgIMG_20201003_095426.jpg
 
Oh I already thought of that. She don't sit outside and even so I still put a cover over the top of the muffler just to be safe.
 
You could do a turnout at the top, and wouldn't need a raincap. There is an O somewhere on this site with one.
 
Why not put the muffler where it belongs, get you some thinwall conduit and make a lightweight stack?

I don't mean to be rude but why exactly would I remove the setup that my 107 came with, that I like, and that I want to keep, in order to put a pipe over on the other side, using skills and tools that I don't have?

That just doesn't make sense to me.
 
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