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IH cub cadet 102 clutch help

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Sean Duffy

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Jan 22, 2021
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Colorado Springs, Colorado
My 102 makes a terrible sound as I depress the clutch. The noise only happens while partially depressed. When it is released it's quite, and when fully depressed its is quite.
I'm fairly certain I will need a throw out bearing. But I'm not sure what else.

I'm also not sure what the best way to change it is. So looking for some advice on that.

Any help is greatly appreciated.

I have attached some photos but it is hard to get a good picture.
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dschwandt

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David Schwandt
Sean,
It looks to me like a full tear down and thorough inspection is in order here.
Appears the T/O bearing is toast and possibly the teaser spring and maybe even the main spring as well from what I can see in your pictures.

In the first 3 pic's it looks like what's sticking up may be the end of the main compression spring, or it could be part of the case of the T/O bearing, but looks a bit too hefty to be that.
.
With the clutch released, assuming proper free play in the pedal, you should be able to reach in there and spin the T/O bearing.
Listen for grinding noises.

With the clutch depressed, you should be able spin and inspect the teaser spring to see if it is broken, that is if the clutch is adjusted properly.

Down load a copy of the service manual from the manual section here on this site.
Instructions should be in there as to how to go about servicing the clutch assembly and set the free play when adjusting.

Good luck!
 
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Sean Duffy

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Colorado Springs, Colorado
I'm sure the T/O bearing is toast. I'm inclined to but all parts that may be bad before I tear down. I will download the manual tonight and see what I learn from there. The clutch it self does not slip.
 

dschwandt

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David Schwandt
If indeed that is the mainspring that I see, you better add that to the parts needed list.
I would be no good to replace the T/O bearing and reuse that spring as it will immediately tear up the new bearing.

Not shown in the parts lookup are the 2 springs, one on each end of the main compression spring. They are a nice tight fit over the driveshaft.
 
Last edited:

dschwandt

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David Schwandt
Kind of my thought too. So there is the main spring, the teaser spring, a throw out bearing? Is that it? Sorry I haven't had a chance to download the manual yet.
Then the actual clutch plates, the clutch disc and the 3 pin driver.
Inspect the rear surface of the throw out lever as well for uneven wear and distortion. These can be resurfaced if need be.
 

hydroharry

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Harry Bursell
Sean - unless you're in a hurry or you need to get your 102 back in service really quick, I'd suggest waiting to get the parts you need until after you remove the clutch assembly. You may even need a new drive shaft if the old one is all wallowed from a failed T/O bearing or broken spring.

You might even want to remove the clutch assembly, disassemble it and post pictures of the various parts on here for help on whether to replace or repair certain items. If you lean toward replacing everything it can get mighty expensive and might not be really necessary.

By the way, although you said your getting a "terrible" sound when your clutch pedal is partially depressed. I'm not quite sure what "terrible" is. I do agree with everything David S has said and your pics do show what appears to be a distorted spring end or part of the T/O bearing or even part of the teaser spring could be twisted up. So it could be any or all of these parts.
What I wanted to add was that I think the most common cause of a "rattling" noise when the clutch pedal is partially depressed is "missing anti-rattle springs". There are supposed to be 3 of them mounted on the 3 pins of the 3 pin driver. I'm certain you'll see them in the service manual. Those 3 little buggers have a habit of flying off never to be found. I'll even go so far to say that I'd bet at least half the gear drive Cubs out there are probably missing at least 1 if not all 3 anti-rattle springs. If you want a nice and quiet operating clutch after you make all your repairs then make sure you've got these 3 springs as well.

Good luck with your repair.
 
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hydroharry

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Harry Bursell
Sean, et al - I can't believe it. Looks like I was blowing a little smoke out my _ _ _ with the information above about " 3 anti-rattle springs".

Since I had mentioned you should see the 3 anti-rattle springs in the Service Manual I decided I better have a look. I opened the pdf file version of the 102 Service Manual at Digger's link above and had a look at the clutch section. I couldn't see those buggers in the illustration #2-9 on page 2-13. I couldn't believe it. They are NOT shown in the illustration and they are not even mentioned in the disassembly or reassembly procedure.

SO, I thought well maybe IH added them later so I downloaded the Service Manual for the Model 104 at this link.
Sure enough, in the illustration #2-8 on page 2-14 you can see one of them in the pic. They are called "Clutch Drive Disk Springs". The Service Manual mentions replacing them but doesn't exactly describes how to install them so you have to really study the illustration and then realize you slip one onto each of the pins in the 3-pin "Drive Plate" BEFORE you slip the clutch assembly back in place. Once the clutch assembly is back in place you twist or pull the 2 ends of each spring up and onto the "Clutch Drive Disk".

Now, the next thing I decided to do was check the Parts List to see if they show up for a 102. Sure enough, they are shown as Item 17 in the parts diagram (which shows a real distorted drawing of one), and under Item 17 in the parts list they are Part No. 732-3018. It only shows Qty 1 but you need 3. My old paper copy of the parts list shows Quantity "AR" (as required). I see CC Specialties has got them for $3 each and here's a pic.
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So, all in all the ole IH Air Brush Parts Illustrators STRIKE AGAIN but IH discovered the error of their way and added these springs back to the illustration later on.

Hope this helps.
 

dschwandt

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David Schwandt
The only way they can escape if properly installed is if they completely break apart.
Install them before placing the front disc in place and they can't escape.
They also keep the disc in place preventing the 3 pins from wallowing out the holes and breaking them out.

They may not work on aftermarket thicker clutch discs though.
 

hydroharry

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David - you know I always wondered about that. Just like you said, the only way they escape if properly installed, is if they completely break apart.

I know "from first hand experience" if they are "improperly" installed (like after the clutch is already installed back on the tractor), those little buggers will just FLY OFF as quickly as you start the engine.

I think probably only 1 or 2 of the gear drive tractors I had, still had 1 of these complete springs on it. Probably 2 or 3 of the tractors had one of the "eyes" from the spring.

What I can't figure out is how the "eye" of the springs disappear. Just how the heck did they escape???? Or did the PO's never re-install them???
 

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