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How do you care for your underside mow deck ?

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gcamille

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Apr 9, 2008
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Gary Camille
I have tried many methods over the years to protect the underside of mower.
Mostly different paints and technics. Only holds up for one season.
My lawn doesn't help. Mountain creek meadow turf. So seems to always change, do pick up some dirt and gravel in spots.
Maybe something that helps prevents grass from sticking .
 
EZ-Slide for me. Once in the spring and last till fall. Course that's only 2 1/2 to 3 months!
1587266629029.png
 
POR15 but don't put it on anywhere you don't want permanently covered like bolt threads nuts ect.
 
Telling you the best thing you can do....on new or old decks. Wire wheel it clean if an older deck, put a good coat of paint on it. Then get some 3M under coating (what you spray on truck frames) and put a good coat on top of that. Seals every thing up, protects moisture from sticking grass, and when you clean your deck via powerwasher or scrapping it clean it cleans alot better, not as much grass stickage And depending how much you mow it stays on a long time. Might just have to recoat it next season with out even repainting it. Ove done this on my cubs and woods deck for years and do it to my new bobcat zero turn
 
I tried undercoating, it didn’t stay on all that good, seems like it made the grass stick more.
70CA243B-041A-42D2-9D64-E290952D43BC.jpeg
so after the slip coating and undercoating wore off I just leave the deck bare underneath, but I scrape and wire brush under there every time I mow. Got in the habit years ago, so now it’s just part of mowing. Only takes a few minutes.
 
I tried undercoating, it didn’t stay on all that good, seems like it made the grass stick more. View attachment 137605so after the slip coating and undercoating wore off I just leave the deck bare underneath, but I scrape and wire brush under there every time I mow. Got in the habit years ago, so now it’s just part of mowing. Only takes a few minutes.

Yea, i tried like 5 different undercoats and GUNK brand and the expensive 3M work best. Other brands fell off like you said
 
I wire wheel clean every spring. Use a metal prep cleaner, then prime and paint.
I'm getting tired of those steps.
Did think about a undercoat layer but was afraid it would cause more grass to stick, not being as smooth.
But it could be a trade off if it protects the paint layer.
Thanks
 
I tried undercoating, it didn’t stay on all that good, seems like it made the grass stick more. View attachment 137605so after the slip coating and undercoating wore off I just leave the deck bare underneath, but I scrape and wire brush under there every time I mow. Got in the habit years ago, so now it’s just part of mowing. Only takes a few minutes.
That's the key. Cleaning every mow. It just doesn't seem to happen that way. I just don't work my head and neck upside down as good anymore
I tried undercoating, it didn’t stay on all that good, seems like it made the grass stick more. View attachment 137605so after the slip coating and undercoating wore off I just leave the deck bare underneath, but I scrape and wire brush under there every time I mow. Got in the habit years ago, so now it’s just part of mowing. Only takes a few minutes.
Yes agree . Cleaning after every mow is the key. That just doesn't seem to happen.
Head and neck just don't like working upside down anymore. :confused:
Really don't want to pull the deck off every time. Don't like working under jack without jack stands, but not much room for both.
Have considered getting or making tall ramps. And my head and neck will just have to deal with it.
I've heard some of the old timers would permanently attach a female hose connector to their deck.
Connect a hose to it after every mow, turn on the water and start the blades to clean the under side. But have never seen how well it works.
Thanks for your input.
 
That's the key. Cleaning every mow. It just doesn't seem to happen that way. I just don't work my head and neck upside down as good anymore

Yes agree . Cleaning after every mow is the key. That just doesn't seem to happen.
Head and neck just don't like working upside down anymore. :confused:
Really don't want to pull the deck off every time. Don't like working under jack without jack stands, but not much room for both.
Have considered getting or making tall ramps. And my head and neck will just have to deal with it.
I've heard some of the old timers would permanently attach a female hose connector to their deck.
Connect a hose to it after every mow, turn on the water and start the blades to clean the under side. But have never seen how well it works.
Thanks for your input.

The key is not mowing wet grass. Dry grass takes far longer to build up and does not need to be removed after every mowing. You can get away with once a season that way.

I would recommend NOT connecting a hose to the deck or otherwise washing it. Grass buildup needs to be scraped. Particularly on the 44" and 50" decks, water will get between the deck shell and the reinforcement plate, not be able to get out, and rust it out. I have rebuilt a few decks over the years, and you can tell which ones saw water and wet grass. And yes, I'm aware a lot of newer mowers have the deck wash port built in. This allows you to trade longevity of the deck for ease of cleaning.
 
The only true way, cost $$, have under the deck sand blastered then have it powered coated. I did my first rebuild a 1978 Wheel Horse C120 and had it powered coated white, easy to see if grass is stuck on while pressure washing. Working on son's CC 1000, K241A
 
The key is not mowing wet grass. Dry grass takes far longer to build up and does not need to be removed after every mowing. You can get away with once a season that way.

I would recommend NOT connecting a hose to the deck or otherwise washing it. Grass buildup needs to be scraped. Particularly on the 44" and 50" decks, water will get between the deck shell and the reinforcement plate, not be able to get out, and rust it out. I have rebuilt a few decks over the years, and you can tell which ones saw water and wet grass. And yes, I'm aware a lot of newer mowers have the deck wash port built in. This allows you to trade longevity of the deck for ease of cleaning.
Agree with that. Not sure if my grass has a little higher moisture content. It is some type of native mountain prairie grass, will grow just over 5' tall if not mowed.
I guessed if using water was not a good ideal. Just figured if you don't get all the grass off it would hold the moisture and made things worse.
Never thought about between plates.
Thanks
 
The only true way, cost $$, have under the deck sand blastered then have it powered coated. I did my first rebuild a 1978 Wheel Horse C120 and had it powered coated white, easy to see if grass is stuck on while pressure washing. Working on son's CC 1000, K241A

Power Coat is what I wanted to do years ago. Would be good with a typical lawn.
My lawn is not typical, uneven, very soft, hilly. I tend to hit dirt and small gravel at times unless I mow with the deck all the way up.
So I don't think even powder coating would hold up, it will still chip. Would still last a lot longer than paint.
I would do that under better conditions.
Thanks
 
I tried undercoating, it didn’t stay on all that good, seems like it made the grass stick more. View attachment 137605so after the slip coating and undercoating wore off I just leave the deck bare underneath, but I scrape and wire brush under there every time I mow. Got in the habit years ago, so now it’s just part of mowing. Only takes a few minutes.
Thom, I'm not accusing you, but please don't get under anything supported by hydraulics only. always use a jackstand.
 
Like many guys here, I drop the deck, flip it over and scrape and wire wheel it clean. I apply a couple coats of rusty metal primer then a coat or two of top coat, any color will do because before I'm done, I spray a coat of bedliner over everything. This has really lasted the longest but it'll still wear down to metal in areas .
I'm curious how those guys that powder coat will like it. I personally hate the stuff for out door use. Any little chip or crack in the coating and moisture creeps under, you won't know until you see an area bubbling up and then flaking. By then the metal is pitted and looks bad.
 
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