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Help, I've fallen and can't get it right

IH Cub Cadet Tractor Forum

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Mike Hoover

Active member
Joined
May 14, 2020
Messages
31
Location
Pittsburgh, Pa
displayname
Paknght
Will give you alittle history and then my problem. I have an 106 10 HP garden tractor, late 1960's . Blew the clutch out and got that replaced. How ever, the wiring appeared to be shot. Wax covered paper, the mice had a field day. Started replacing each wire, one at a time. Nothing real difficult but time consuming. After everything hooked up, I have a dead short somewhere. Ammeter goes discharge just touching battery cable.

I guess this is a learning curve for me, but I have a few questions to sort this out

1. I assume that the electrical system is negative ground.

2. I forgot to remember which way solenoid is mounted. I believe that I mounted it properly. but would putting it backwards cause a short. I looked at a friends 149 and mine is mounted the same way.

3. I used an ohm meter to trace a short to the starter/generator. I get a short from the positive terminal to ground. The tractor ran before it was abandoned in the barn

The diagrams for the electrical circuits helped alot, would enjoy getting this beast back running again

Thanks for any help

Mike
 
Open the regulator to check that both sets of points are open and free to move. Then unhook the wire from the armature terminal to the regulator and isolate it and check for the drain again. There should be no power on the starting wire at the generator with the key off.
 
Here is a schematic for some early Cub Cadets that should help
104_Schematic.jpg
 
Well, I have a little set back with my Cub. Got the new clutch in and did the wiring piece by piece. I followed the wiring diagram to the T. That's the good stuff. When I went to make battery connection, I got a big spark like there was a short some where. I had the starter rebuilt, and put a new regulator at same time. The place I had it done did a test and showed the system charging. I checked the points and in fact took them out. Still got the spark. Put a new key switch in as one of the old terminal rusted and broke off. Switch in off position but still got a short.
Is it possible to put the selinoid backwards?
I started to do a ohms (resistance) on everything but haven't figured out yet

On thing I probably should not done, all the wiring to starter and regulator I wrapped with electric tape along the frame and reassembled the engine. Maybe I smashed some wires. Aghh. Hate to think of taking engine out again.

Thanks for the wiring diagrams, they were a big help

Thanks.
Mike
 
If you unhook the battery wire at the regulator and isolate it. And do the same with the coil .. there should be no complete circuit for a drain. You can also unhook both ends of the battery wire and test it to ground. If you pinched it or the starter wire installing the engine the resulting short would likely melt the wire as there is no fuse in that harness and you have not said that you have to replace it.
 
If you unhook the battery wire at the regulator and isolate it. And do the same with the coil .. there should be no complete circuit for a drain. You can also unhook both ends of the battery wire and test it to ground. If you pinched it or the starter wire installing the engine the resulting short would likely melt the wire as there is no fuse in that harness and you have not said that you have to replace it.
 
can some one please tell me or show me where I can find a wire diegram for LTX 1040 year 2012. I'm trying to find where the two wires going to the back right of the tractor to all the linkage for the drive unit (trany IDONT KNOW WHAT THEY CALL IT)) and right be hind the right rear wheel. I have a green to ground and a yellow to ????? Thanks for your time
 
The 1040 has a safety switch in that linkage..When you press on brake to start machine you activate a safety..oops just noted 1040..I do know 1042 and 1045 have that switch..the 1040 likely does as well...
 
DO NOT test new wiring with a battery...
Instead, whenever I put a new harness in a car... I use my battery charger set on 2amps, and start chasing systems one at a time. IF there's a short, 2amps wont fry any wires, or hurt components.
 
I isolated the rebuilt starter generator and found that I put an ohm meter from ground to the two top terminals I get a short. The guy said his polished the armature and put new brushes in it and put it on the new regulator and found it was charging. What could be causing a short?
 
Have you read the test process posted here ? Digger posts the link all the time in cub faqs and manuals. The armature is a heavy draw so it would seam like a short. The field is a type a circuit so the regulator grounds it.
 
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