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Had to make noise
- Thread starter KAYAKER2
- Start date
Help Support IH Cub Cadet Tractor Forum:
I am not a expert but just looking it seems to have more than 1 problem.
Block is fine. gears look fine. But what good is a block without a hard to find cam? that is the big issue I see. what do you think wh cc guy
RK
RK
mgonitzke
Well-known member
A good used cam should not be difficult to find.
Put a ad in the want ads. Should be a lot of used K161 out there.
Rod is destroyed, which mean crank is also. Time for new innards if block is ok.
mgonitzke
Well-known member
Crankpin can be turned undersize and a matching undersized connecting rod used.
“iCE-sculpting!”
I got another engine with the 71 it is another K-161 I just have to get the PTO off the old block. Having trouble with a few of the set screws. They will need drilling out. I have them soaking now. both blocks are black does that mean they are replacement Blocks? Maybe I will rebuild the one that threw the rod. Moving into a new house soon and not much time now. I am in the process of switching them now.
mgwin
Well-known member
Black engine usually means replacement, unless someone painted it.
Getting ready to sell the house. Moving out in 4 weeks. I have been in here for 35 years. So not much time to work on the 71.
I still cant get the PTO clutch and starter pulley off. And noticed the oil pan to the replacement engines drain plug is on the side instead of underneath. The reason the engine was run low on oil was the nipple and cap had no sealer of any kind on the threads. So that got me to thinking what I did on my Jeep Liberty Diesel that had a striped oil pan plug hole. I installed a Fumato drain. I see they have one in 3/8 18 F110N: Long Nipple Oil Drain Valve with 3/8-18 NPT And seal with high temp JB weld with gasket. easy to drain the oil with a plastic tube. and no spill or leaks.
RK
I still cant get the PTO clutch and starter pulley off. And noticed the oil pan to the replacement engines drain plug is on the side instead of underneath. The reason the engine was run low on oil was the nipple and cap had no sealer of any kind on the threads. So that got me to thinking what I did on my Jeep Liberty Diesel that had a striped oil pan plug hole. I installed a Fumato drain. I see they have one in 3/8 18 F110N: Long Nipple Oil Drain Valve with 3/8-18 NPT And seal with high temp JB weld with gasket. easy to drain the oil with a plastic tube. and no spill or leaks.
RK
Attachments
if worse comes to worse, you could mount that stern-tiller on the 71. with a couple of pontoons, you could be fishing while “on the mower.”
good luck with the move.
good luck with the move.
mgonitzke
Well-known member
I would use some non hardening thread sealant like Rector Seal #5. JBcantWeld is not a thread sealant.
tkhoffman
Well-known member
I have those on a few pieces of equipment. The nipple for the host works out nice on so equipment that had you dumping oil all over. They do drain slower then I'd like. I have the other Company that makes these... EZ Drain (?)
I knew I was on to something....see my piece 'Oil Change Aid' for a bit more on this subject.
Jack Casey
Jack Casey, I see that now. Warm the engine up before draining helps
Rebuilding the Engine that threw the rod looks like a good project down the road. But trying to locate a cam assembly Would the k161 cam be the same as a k181 part.
Parts lookup can tell you which parts will interchange.
Compare part #'s
Compare part #'s
Finally got the PTO and starter pulley off the K-161. I had to drill out two of the pointed set screws. The first one I drilled all the way through the set screw and into the bearing and broke the drill bit off. I was a little more careful on the last one. I did booger the set screw threads. Is it junk or has anyone drilled and taped for larger diameter set screws? I have two more good ones. not worth it at this time.
BK
BK
bcarl
Well-known member
I’ve had the same issue with drilling out stubborn set screws. You can easily tap them for a larger size set screw.
