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Four digit original

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Seems like every time I start on a cub, everything else happens. Threw a rock through the driver's side glass on my S-10 while mowing last week.
I did manage to get the frame out for a pressure wash, and knock off 59 years of grease and grime.

frame1.jpg
frame2.jpg
 
The original enamel is pretty hard to simply -sandblast- off. That's why I have been putting most of my parts in a 5-gallon bucket of Berryman's Chem-Dip. I always have a can at my shop, and I have a (well-used) can that is almost a year old. It's outlived it's usefulness as "Carb Cleaner" .... but is perfect for greasy and painted parts that need cleaned or stripped.
If you do alot of mechanical work- it is great for stripping parts... I purchased the Can with the "basket" so it's great for small parts, bolts, and any other parts that can fit in the can.
 
The original enamel is pretty hard to simply -sandblast- off. That's why I have been putting most of my parts in a 5-gallon bucket of Berryman's Chem-Dip. I always have a can at my shop, and I have a (well-used) can that is almost a year old. It's outlived it's usefulness as "Carb Cleaner" .... but is perfect for greasy and painted parts that need cleaned or stripped.
If you do alot of mechanical work- it is great for stripping parts... I purchased the Can with the "basket" so it's great for small parts, bolts, and any other parts that can fit in the can.
For parts that will fit in a small to medium size rubbermaid container I use oven cleaner. I liberally spray each part ( I make sure the part(s) are soaked) And loosely cover for at least 5 hours. Wash off with a garden hose or pressure washer.
 
Got a little more done today. Takes a lot of time to get all that paint off when there are two to three coats of paint on.

Sandblasted and primed.

View attachment 138199
I see that you have a spring assist. Did you make that washer with the hole in it to hold the spring or is that original? Reason I ask, I have a spring assist minus that washer....
 
Trust me, it's worth it.
20191010_134442.jpg
original mowing deck.jpg

Mine is a four digit also. Still have to get new wheels and tires and get the engine going.
 
Not disputing anyone's method of cleaning parts, I am sure these procedures work fine.
Personally, I do not like the thought of cleaning parts with harsh chemicals and then rinsing them with water.
My thinking is that the chemicals could possibly leave a residue on the metal causing the primer to not adhere well. Also, the water would be difficult to totally remove from the metal and could cause flash rust.
This may not be the case at all, but it is my thinking, and I feel much better using the sandblasting method.

Speaking of sandblasting, I did a few more parts today.
Sandblasted, cleaned, and primed.

DSCF0579.JPG


Got to get the paint booth back in service.
 
I wish I had access to a blaster - I'd use the heck out of it. As it is, I primarily used a wire wheel on a drill or angle grinder, but have to shield myself well from the wires that eventually go flying. I guess that's why I've only done one!
 
All you need is a decent compressor and a blast cabinet. Harbor Freight sells the cabinets for around a Ben Franklin. The bigger stuff can be blasted with a blast tank. They are fairly inexpensive also. The compressor cost the most. I bought an Ingersol Rand two stage at Tractor Supply for 900. I applied for a TS card and put it on that, and they gave me a nice discount along with free financing.
I know all about the wire brushes. Get on the edge of some metal and they go a flying! I have looked like a pin cushion several times. That is one big reason why I had to invest in a compressor and sand blaster. LOL!
 
Kraig,
Took the axle, spindles, and spindle collars apart yesterday. Got to looking, and see the axle color appears Farmall red under the yellow. Did IH put Farmall red primer on the cast iron parts before painting? I know what you said about red on cubs, but it still makes me "scratch my head"!
I guess in my wildest dreams, I am hoping in May of 61' they took a Farmall red prototype frame that was lying around, painted it yellow, added the rest of the parts to make a cub, and sold it to someone near Bristol, TN. LOL!

You would think with me working only every other week, I could get some work on the O done. Seems everything else is trying to break/happen so I can't. Did get a little done yesterday, but you couldn't tell it to look at it. This meticulous cub work is driving me crazy, but I gotta do it.

On another note, "I got my fingers crossed." Not superstitious, just hoping for a road trip. Maybe find out next week.
 
Marty, with a Cub Cadet, especially an early one, I would think almost anything is possible. I believe that IH did uses a flat red primer on the cast parts. Perhaps they were out of primer and used Farmall red, or thye used up the last of some red in the spray gun then top coated it with yellow or it's a protptype they repainted, sure gets one to thinking...
 
You might be hitting red lead primer. It was used on a whole lot of steel in the old days. Be sure to wear protection when your working around it.
 
When I opened up the rear end of my original it was painted red also. As mentioned above I suspect the primer.
 
After some more research, I found a post by Paul Bell* the red on the inside of the transmission/rear end is actually a sealer not a primer. I suspect the red used on the outside of the rear end under the yellow is the same sealer. :drool2:

*Paul Bell wrote on July 27, 2012: IH did not use a primer on the production Cub Cadets. They did use a dark red sealer on the cast iron parts that would contain a fluid, such as the transmission/rear end.

Marty, in my research I found photos of other Original front axles with the red under the yellow. These are of an Original that Art Aytay refurbished/modded that became his "Plow Special".

Original Front Axle.jpg
Original Tranny 2.jpg
 
That settles it, red primer it is.
Come to think of it, every cub rear end I ever opened had red inside.
 
My memory says that is a coating called "Glyptal". It was used on the interiors of performance engines to seal the pores and aids in shedding the oil.
 
Hey Marty - just put a little oil on that oiler and she'll work just fine. :roflol:
 
I do not usually ask this kind of question, but I am debating on whether to pursue this lead or not.
What is a creeper for an O going for these days?
I am looking at an O with one on it, but the O has quite a bit of rust on it. No extras other than the creeper.
 
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