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Fix for CC100 steering slop

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hydroharry

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Harry Bursell
can anyone tell me what parts i would potentially have to replace to fix the slop in this? haven't pulled it yet so maybe it will be obvious.
I'd plan on replacing all the parts except the main shaft. And while you're at it I'd suggest the Super Steer upgrade, which is basically just adding a bearing and washer on the outside. Pretty certain CC Specialties and Kirks Engines (both Sponsors) have the upgrade.
 

dfrisk

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Dennis Frisk
Oh, one other tip, there's a package for the two thrust bearings that are on either end of the steering sector on the steering shaft, all new bearing balls, the two stamped steel races for the top & bottom of the sector, and the nylon or plastic ball separators, one part number for around half the price.
Another approved fix if the center pivot pin is loose, and the channel the axle fits in is bent wider, a short 3/4" hex head cap screw can extend the life of the axle. Bolt needs to go in the back of the channel with threads toward the front, that's on 12 hp and larger engines with the deep sump pan, flat pan engines ,like, 7,8,10 hp can go either way. I'd use a grade 5 fine thread bolt & nut. And a good front wheel bearing replaces the plastic bushing at the top of the steering tube.
 

cub1961

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Feb 5, 2022
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here’s a couple of videos of the slop in the steering. this is when moving the wheel about a quarter rotation before it even tries to engage the tie rod. i think maybe a spindle bearing or something? balljoint looks ok to me
 

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dschwandt

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David Schwandt
There are no "spindle" bearings or spindles either for that matter, only wheel bearings on the ends of the steering knuckles which have nothing to do with the slop.
Is the axle itself moving back and forth?
Your free play is coming from tie rod ends, drag link ends, worn axle pin and/or bushings. drag link arm or steering housing part/s.
Maybe all or just some of the above.
Check them all out, have someone rock the steering wheel back and forth enough to move stuff and observe where the looseness is coming from.
Good luck!
 
Last edited:

Delbert White

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IHCC 100 Conan NoBrian
This is the thoughts of a pup so please correct as needed
Your video looks like the bolt connecting 6 and 8 might be sheered

One of the first repairs i did on my 100 was to replace the undersized bolt the PO thought was good enough on that steering joint
Screenshot_20221010-212153_Drive.jpg
 

mgonitzke

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Matt Gonitzke
There is supposed to be a spirol pin between those two parts, not a bolt.

The only way to really fix that is to ream the hole for a tapered solid pin. This wasn't a great design. The later tractors have better design spindles.
 

cub1961

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Feb 5, 2022
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thanks for the replies. i have been tied up with covid in the family, etc. i got out to my shop last night and did some comparisons of this one and a good one. notice on this one that this left front steering spindle has a hole and bolt in it like a right front steering spindle would?? i never noticed that before i checked one of my others. that is where it looks like most of the slop is. i think somebody did some butchering on this at one time. i dug through my pile and found a left spindle and have it soaking in kerosene to get the crud off and am going to replace it this weekend. this might be an easier fix than i thought. i hope so because i am about ready to put all the parts back on after painting. it looks like it is going to turn out real nice, especially for a rattle can job. if i am happy with the results i may even splurge for some decals. still need to install the new wiring harness and headlight panel and deck.
 

Delbert White

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IHCC 100 Conan NoBrian
This is how it looks on my 100

Never knew it was supposed to be a pin

I think it was drilled out to 3/8's and I put a shoulder bolt to keep it tight
20221014_110422.jpg
20221014_110415.jpg
 

cub1961

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Feb 5, 2022
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well this looks like it was easier than i thought. once i started comparing the slop to a tight one i have, i thought that it was in the steering knuckle. the drag link was moving forward but the knuckle did not engage for about a 1/4 of a turn. i saw that the knuckle had been butchered up by a previous owner. no idea what he was trying to do but he had drilled a hole in the top of the bracket that connects the drag link to the steering knuckle and welded a threaded piece on top of the knuckle shaft. it was flush with the top surface of the bracket though so i could not figure out what he was trying to accomplish. i put a spare knuckle on that i had and also found that the slop was because the roll pin was broken off too short and allowed a lot of play before engaging the knuckle. driving in a new 5/16 coiled roll pin and now there is virtually no slop.

now to wait for the paint to cure and on to reassembly
 
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