Kirk Engines, Inc Cub Cadet Used Parts CADET CONNECTION Cub Cadet Specialties Cub Cadet Specialties

Engine oil

Help Support IH Cub Cadet Forum:

dschwandt

Well-known member
IHCC Supporter
Joined
Mar 31, 2012
Messages
3,912
displayname
David Schwandt
I didn't even put the whole herd out front in the yard this 4th like I usually do!.
Just too dam hot to mess with it this year!!
 

hydroharry

Well-known member
Joined
Jul 22, 2007
Messages
4,126
displayname
Harry Bursell
Hahaha - Mike F made a good point. Back in the day of the old Forum BTGC (before the great crash, which Kraig knows well) there was a Great Oil Debate (it might even be in the archives). The one thing I remember from that is what one of the members mentioned a quote he learned from an old timer "oil is oil, and some is better than none".
On the other hand, for me in a K-series single cylinder I prefer the straight 30W. That is unless it's gonna be below 20degrees for a sustained period outside then I switch to 5W-20 (as the manual specifies).
 

tkhoffman

Well-known member
Joined
Oct 2, 2013
Messages
277
Location
Northern NEW YORK
displayname
Tony Hoffman
With my Air Cooled engines that run a long time, I have no problem running single weight diesel oil in them. They don't have as many detergents as oil for gas engines but air cooled engines can run hot so diesel oil is happier in that environment.
 

Greg Riutzel

Well-known member
IHCC Supporter
Joined
Jul 9, 2020
Messages
127
Location
Lebanon, Oregon
No 30wt in Utah? Napa, Carquest (especially in farm country) carry it as well as Case IH.

It's best to go with what the OEM recommends. Kohler seems to "tolerate" multi-weight in their service/repair manuals for K series but the caveat can be increased consumption and carbon build up according to them.

While many have gone the multi-weight route, air cooled engines run looser until warmed up and some such as Kawasaki recommend a brief warm up period before a load is applied and I think it's related to lube viscosity vs clearance.

Since the K series have no filters, the 25 hour change interval will keep dirt and abrasives to a minimum for longer life. Add to that detergents will keep the case and parts cleaner. Their job not only keeps deposits from building but also suspension agents in the oil will help get the dirt out at draining rather than piling up on the crankcase bottom. That alone is why I stick with dino lube. A busy season can rack up hours pretty quick and good dino ain't cheap but still less than synthetic.
 

Jake Olsen

Member
IHCC Supporter
Joined
Jun 8, 2021
Messages
14
Location
Utah
If you want to know what oil and change interval is acceptable, read the owner's or service manual for the engine.

Straight 30W is what belongs in a K-series in warm weather, but....don't run that in a Command. What is appropriate for one engine may not be for another. OP did not specify what engine/tractor he has.
Sorry for not specifying what tractors or engines all older k series engines in my 70/105/123/124/1250/1450 and John Deere 300. And yes I do read the manual and said I can’t find Dino oil in my town.
 

tkhoffman

Well-known member
Joined
Oct 2, 2013
Messages
277
Location
Northern NEW YORK
displayname
Tony Hoffman
Sorry for not specifying what tractors or engines all older k series engines in my 70/105/123/124/1250/1450 and John Deere 300. And yes I do read the manual and said I can’t find Dino oil in my town.
No single wt DINO oil by me either, even the multi grades have gone with some synthetics (Castro GTX for one) that's why I investigated the diesel single weight, that, we have.
 

abthomas

Well-known member
IHCC Supporter
Joined
Nov 10, 2019
Messages
53
Location
new florence pa
When I rebuild a k series I put the straight 30 wt in it, after 3 or 4 hours of run time I change it and get all the break in lube and assembly dirt out put fresh oil in and do the normal recommended oil changes,worked for me for 40+ years ! I also re torque the head about 3 times ,but that's just me !
 
Top