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Down Under restro of a 1572

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jhansen

Member
Joined
Oct 15, 2017
Messages
11
displayname
John Hansen
I am restoring a 1572 diesel that has been sitting for 20+ years. The engine came to life quite easily but the hydro works and then doesn't. I suspect there is air to purge but I haven't seen anywhere how to do this.
Any help greatly appreciated and I will continue to show the progress of my restoration as I am very impressed with this piece of machinery and it is perfectly suited to my forest and bush acreages.}
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John,

Hello, and welcome to the forum!
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That is a super nice cub you have there.
You said it has been sitting for years? It must have been sitting in a nice shelter! It looks like it is in great shape.
There must not be any rust in Australia!

Are you going to take it apart and repaint it?
The guys here can certainly help you on the hydro issues.
I am a gear drive guy, so I will just have to look at the pictures!
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New filter and fresh hytran is the first step for the hydro.......pull the rear cover and flush out all of the water gelled gunk.
 
Thanks Marty,
Actually it has been outside and lesser items have succumb to rust but not this Baby!
I will be restoring, mechanicals first, then I want a front bucket and after that the paint job.
Any clues on a hydraulic bucket?
I haven't looked seriously here. On YouTube seems mainly homemade ones.
Cheers,
John
 
John, WELCOME!
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Looks like it's in very good condition for having sat for 20+ years. That's quite the grill guard.
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John-

Welcome to the best forum there is for cub cadets.

If I had to pick a place to live in this world, including the US, I think I'd pick Australia. Maybe I have a thing for kangaroos(??). Steve Erwin was one of my heros mainly because I'm all for habitat preservation and he was king.

Steve B. has the right advice for starting on hydro issues. I hope getting parts for cubs isn't a big issue in your corner of the world. The banners at the top of each page may help with that...especially CC Specialties. I imagine Charlie (owner) would be glad to send parts to the other side of the world and probably has.

Good luck! And keep us informed as things progress.

.
 
G'day Mates, glad to be part of this group and thanks for your kind welcomes.
Apart from Roos we have feral deer around our beautiful Dandenong Ranges where I am a volunteer firefighter with much sympathy for California right now...
I drained the axle by pulling the plate off and have gasket stuff for replacement.
However I can't find the equivalent fluid for HyT. The local Cub Cadet dealer is not sure what I should use, suggesting maybe 20-50 trans fluid. Please let me know what I should use. I know it should be mineral (still correct?) but there are so many types. Also where can I get air, fuel, oil and trans filters from? And where is the bloody trans filter anyway? A mystery for me right now.
Cheer's,
John
P.S. Never knew there were Roos in IOWA Digger :)
 
John, Here's a link to the OWNER'S MANUAL Page 32 has a sort of cutaway side view showing where various lubrication points are located as well as where the transmission filter is located. Basically the filter is located on the forward side of the transmission. Though this isn't a photo of a 1572, the filter would be in the same location:

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This SERVICE MANUAL might have some info on the 1572, it's covers several of the later Garden Tractor models including diesels. It should at least have some chassis related info.
 
John-
Welcome! Anyone doing their part with the CFA is allright by me
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. I think things have calmed down a bit, but it looks like things were just as busy as California for you not too long ago.

As folks will say, HyTran is what these were made for, but if HyTran is hard to find, the <font color="119911">HyGard</font> works too. Standard HyGard is a bit thicker, but if you're not getting the temperate winters, you'll be fine.
 
John - as many others have said, Welcome to the best Cub Cadet Forum on the internet.

I wanted to add since you are "down under" the pic that Kraig posted seems really appropriate
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You mentioned having trouble finding a HyTran equivalent fluid and the CC dealer said possibly use 20-50 Trans Fluid. I don't think a mult-grade oil would work so I'd recommend against doing that. I see Wyatt mentioned using HyGard (by JD), which I suppose would work. I'd really recommend you continue your search to see if you could find some type of Tractor Hydraulic Fluid that mentions meeting or exceeding the old IH HyTran Spec B-6, or Case/IH HyTran Plus or the current HyTran Ultra.

I have no idea what type of auto/truck/tractor parts stores you have down there, or even what Oil brands you have. If you happen to have a "Case" or "Case/IH" brand tractor dealer they should have this Akcela Hy-Tran Ultraction like the following:
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Another possibility is - if you are going to order parts from Charlie at CC Specialties (one of the colorful boxes at the heading of this page) then maybe you could also order this fluid from him. I just don't know what would be involved in shipping a fluid half way across the world. (By the way, his posts are under the name Digger and he found those Roos in Iowa).
 
Hydro, I never thought about the "down under" aspect of that photo.
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Oiya' John - I did a quick Google search, found a Case directory for Australia and these dealers which aren't far from you. They should have HyTran Ultraction. Ooh, and you'll need 14 pints, or 7 quarts or 1 3/4 gallons US measure. I suppose you use Imperial measure down there and I don't know what that converts to.

Traf Tractor & Machinery
8-14 Saleyard Road
Trafalgar , VIC 3824
03 5633 1588

Agrimac Ballarat
Cnr Learmonth & Ring Rds
Wendouree
Ballarat , VIC 3350
03 5339 3038

O'Connors
212-216 Numurkah Road
Shepparton , VIC 3632
03 5821 4555
 
G'day Mates,
So grateful for all your assistance. I did find a hydraulic mum and dad shop who after much searching had one 20 litre of this ($AUD120.00)! Also they are getting a filter which seems to match the part number.
Not waiting for that, I drained the diff, it wasn't grimy in there at all. Spent about an hour funnelling in 7.9 litres (8quarts) which goes way above the dipstick full mark.
Fired her up and same thing, NO hydraulic action at all
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What next??? the shaft is turning, I can't imagine the filter is so blocked as to have no pressure at all. It worked one time before the oil change...
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Replace the filter, then remove the check valves on the top of the hydro (pull center cover, and they are 2ea. big tall nuts with little holes in them)and pour some hyd. oil in each hole to help prime the charge pump........replace check valves and try again.

If that doesn't work, go may need some internal hydro repairs......no too difficult, but you will need a good donor unit and the service manual for sure. SGT hydros are slightly different than std GT hydros, (output shaft and top shaft, sometimes charge pump) so one must be a bit careful.
 
Thanks Harry Bursell (Hydroharry) and Steve Blunier "Mr. Plow" (Central IL) (Sblunier),
I got all prepared to do the relief vavles and after taking the cover off and starting the engine, I noticed for the first time that the disconnect clutch was well named because that's all it was doing at any revs
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So as well as being extremely embarrassed, I am now it looks like having to deal with that as my problem first...
Looking at the service manual it seems it wouldn't even disconnect at idle but only serve as a one way drive but why?
Anyway, what now? Pull it apart I guess and maybe if I am lucky its the wire on the Clutch Hub that's broken? (page 3-50)
Cheers,
john
 
Jeez, of course the clutch is to take load off the starter motor.
(sometimes the stupid takes a while to wear off
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Well send you pics of the sheared bolt in the clutch later and the much hassle to fix but for now am mobile, 2miles to home. Once there this is my mates checking her out and giving their approval.
Tech stuff later, this too much cute to post first.
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