Disconnect clutch on 1512 diesel - Should I keep it.

[bpientka]

Hello All,

I have 1512 and justed noticed the plastic fan on the disconnect clutch which cools the transmission has half of the blades broken off. Since I use the tractor to haul out firewood I suspect I had a stick go up into the frame and hit the blades. I priced out a new plastic fan blade that mounts on the clutch and was shocked $130.00. Now I can remove the disconect clutch and get all the required parts (regular fan blade, end bracket and new drive shaft) for less than that.

So the big question is how helpful is the disconnect clutch?

Thanks.

Bernie

 

[dtanner]

Bernie Pientka

I do not have the disconnect clutch on my 1512! I have installed a CV drive shaft from a 1782 and don`t have problems with that.They can be bought for $250.00 used and installed.The fan alone charlie sells I think on his site. you could measure your drive shaft and ask in the wanted section for a shaft to fit your 1512 .later Don T

 

[jstertz]

Bernie,
I just changed out my disconnect driveshaft for a CV style out of a 2182. I've only run it about 5 hours so far but I'm very pleased with the results. It is much smoother and should last a very long time if I keep it greased. If you want to keep the setup you have I would gladly sell you my old fan which is in great shape. My recommendation would be the newer style driveshaft though.

 

[bpientka]

Well decided I was going to removed the disconnect clutch. Yesterday I took everything out and it turns out that the bronze bushing on the plate mounted to the engine was enlarged and the flex discs looked tired (379 hrs and 6 years). So I went to the local cub shop and picked up: new driveshaft, bronze bushing, coupler arm, fan, 4 spiral pins, flex discs. Put everything back together and it seems to work great. Made one lap up the driveway and down a small hill then went to park the tractor to put the side covers on and tunnel cover and the tractor stopped. Engine still running but won't move. Looked over everything and lost a spiral pin on the engine side of the driveshaft. After a few minutes I had a new pin in. Now I need to figure out which of the pin holding methods to go with (wire through center, JB weld, hose clamp). While at the cub dealer I took a look at a used GT3200 (150 hr - $4500) with a 44 inch deck. Seemed like a nice machine but was missing the rumble of the diesel.

 

[aschumacher]

Ya know, at one time my kids said I was so frugal that I could get 13cents out of a dime! Now that they're older, dad sometimes looks like the World Bank to them. But you know that $4500 seems like an awful lot of money for a used tractor, especially since their life is a whole lot shorter than when 'real tractors' were built. I know, we probabily couldn't afford a 'real tractor' today. Also cant cover a few acres with a $400 walk behind...guess one has to do what 'ya got to. JMHO

 

[bpientka]

Yes $4500 is a lot of money and that is one of the reasons the 1512 is still in my shed. Compared to the $6900 for a new Cub Cadet GTX2154LE or the $10-15 thousand for a sub-compact 4x4 tractor the small expense in replacement parts is well worth it.

 

[proessler]

Bernie, I've used wire for a safety for years without a failure! It's cheap insurance to prevent unwanted expense & a headache or two.

# 2 son got a little used 3204 w/ Cat. 3 point, Hyd. tiller, 45" 2 stage snow thrower & 54" deck. He really likes the upgrade from my old /his 1811. I got him a 54" blade in a trade for some of his mechanical tech services.

 

[dross]

Allen, Bernie, I get theres some expensive tractors out there. Probably why I got a few old cubs. If you put a bunch (realative to the person) of money on one tractor, if that tractor goes down your down. If you have a couple for less money, one goes down you don't wait for parts or more money you walk to the other tractor and finish. Just one more advantage to being cheap.

 

[kweaver]

Dave - That's why I have a Cub at the front of the garage for the front yard and one in the back of the garage for the back yard. Sometimes one of them has to go through the gate ...

Not cheap I just like 2 of everything.

 

[jchamberlin]

Kentucky Ken: I like the way you think! My wife insists I mow the front less than 2" high, but parts of the back yard suffer at less than 3" --and that's cutting it every week. The only solution --for me-- is to configure a tractor for each yard. Its good to know I'm not alone.

 

[cfrock]

Just thought I would throw in my 2 cents worth here about the driveshaft issue. I had a 1572 diesel that had a bad vibration in the driveline. Turned out to be the driveshaft worn beyond repair. I bought a good used driveshaft out of a 1872 gas tractor and shortened it so that it would fit the 1572 diesel motor. It worked fine. I recently sold it to a guy who wants to put a front end loader on it. I too have several of the SGT's because I do not like waiting for parts to come in if I have a break
down. I just go get another tractor and finish up what I was doing. My time is too valuable to me to just waste it waiting.

 

[bpientka]

Wow it sounds like we all think alike. I have an cheap Troybit that was given to me which I use to mow but it's life is short. Just got the OK from the wife to look for another mower (somewhat inexpensive) and I started to search for another used Cub garden tractor. I have a 50c deck for the 1512 but just can't take it into the woods with the deck on. Just going to take my time looking about and hopefully will find a good deal. Thanks for all the input. On another note order the 4 hydraulic cylinders for my loader build. By the end of the summer my 1512 should have a new attachement.

 

[bpientka]

Saw a 149 with mower deck on craigslist for $300. Posted last night 9:30. Contacted them at 8am this morning and was gone. Wow things go fast.

 

[mhomrighausen]

Keep the 1512 whereas I am pretty sure that it has the 15U hydro in it yet. The 2011 Cub Cadets have the BDU10L in them. It looks as if MTD/Cub Cadet dropped the BDU21L altogether in the garden tractor lineup.

 

[jchamberlin]

Marlin: Good to see you posting! I was thinking of e-mailing you to see how you were doing, since we hadn't heard from you recently. I trust everything is going OK on the job.

Keeping things on topic, can you speak to the feasibility of trying to adapt a non-ported charge pump (from a 1250) to a ported charge pump on a 782 or 149? I know its been discussed numerous times, but I'm interested in your opinion: Assuming it CAN be done, is it a good idea to do it?

The reason I ask is that the action on the trunnion shaft seems a lot tighter on the 1250 hydro than on either the 782 or 149. But I can't transfer the whole unit from one tractor to the other because the ones I want to use are ported, and the 1250 is not.

 

[bpientka]

Yes I am keeping the1512. I have just started to look for another machine for mowing. Locally I found a few machines 1711, 122, 123, 129 and a 1250 on craigslist. Most around the $500 range.

 

[mhomrighausen]

Jeremiah C. Just been busy here as of late. Trying to keep the Windstar and the Dakota running plus some other nuances is distracting to say the least.

A non ported hydro has a smaller charge pump than the ported hydro pump. Just looked up the price of the kits for both and Geez.... you can almost buy a whole new pump for the cost of the charge kit alone. Of course that is through a Cub Cadet dealer. For any parts such as that I'd go to the nearest Sauer Danfoss Distribution Center and price them out. Of course I'm a little biased and like to save money on such things. I don't mind MTD making a little profit however, I need to survive also.

 

[mhomrighausen]

jeremiah C. Contact Donald Tanner and have him walk you through swapping the non ported cast iron section over to the aluminum housing section or the ported hydro pump. You should be good to go then.