• This community needs YOUR help today. With the ever increasing fees of everything (server, software, domain, e-mail) , we need help. We need more Supporting Members, today. Please invest back into this community to help spread our love and knowledge of IH Cub Cadets. You get a lot of great new account perks including access to private forums. If you sign up for annual, I will ship a few IH Cub Cadet Forum decals too in addition to all the account perks you get. You can see what it looks like below.

    Sign up here: https://www.ihcubcadet.com/account/upgrades

devilbiss spray gun.

IH Cub Cadet Tractor Forum

Help Support IH Cub Cadet Tractor Forum:

This site may earn a commission from merchant affiliate links, including eBay, Amazon, and others.

cub1961

Well-known member
Joined
Feb 5, 2022
Messages
199
i have two of these. very clean but i think they were used for stain. not sure if that’s just an adjustment or i need new nozzle. i assume these are good guns for paint? any tips on use? never did anything but rattle can and looking to use this for some upcoming cub projects
 

Attachments

  • EA7EDF63-649B-4DBF-840A-8034665930B6.jpeg
    EA7EDF63-649B-4DBF-840A-8034665930B6.jpeg
    1 MB · Views: 3
  • 1709AD82-A2AF-4E8E-A3CC-AB6363F696A3.jpeg
    1709AD82-A2AF-4E8E-A3CC-AB6363F696A3.jpeg
    1.3 MB · Views: 0
There should be an airflow adjustment, and a spray pattern adjustment. My "paint booth" is wrapped in plastic, so I usually adjust my spray pattern on the plastic. The air flow should be fairly low, so you are not blowing the paint "too hard." I also clean the gun real good after each use with organic paint thinner.
Unlike sandblasting, it takes little air to paint. I used a pancake compressor to paint my first cub.
Get those guns dialed in, and you will love it! You will probably never go back to a rattle can, except for small jobs.
 
i have two of these. very clean but i think they were used for stain. not sure if that’s just an adjustment or i need new nozzle. i assume these are good guns for paint? any tips on use? never did anything but rattle can and looking to use this for some upcoming cub projects
Those guns are probably very old, possibly 50+ yrs. The problem is that fluid needles and nozzles do wear out, making adjustment of spray pattern difficult or impossible. Devilbiss name has been around for a long time and I recognize that model. I still have a couple of old (but not as old as the models in the picture) siphon feed DeVilbiss on a shelf but, I haven't used them since I got a gravity feed Devilbiss gun. If not wore out too badly it is a good gun to learn with. With a siphon feed there will be more overspray floating around than a gravity feed gun when you paint.
 
Those guns are probably very old, possibly 50+ yrs. The problem is that fluid needles and nozzles do wear out, making adjustment of spray pattern difficult or impossible. Devilbiss name has been around for a long time and I recognize that model. I still have a couple of old (but not as old as the models in the picture) siphon feed DeVilbiss on a shelf but, I haven't used them since I got a gravity feed Devilbiss gun. If not wore out too badly it is a good gun to learn with. With a siphon feed there will be more overspray floating around than a gravity feed gun when you paint.
i can believe they are old considering where i got them.

if i wanted to play with them what paint/hardener mix and air pressure would you suggest? i will be spraying the irongard paint eventually but will start out with something cheaper to play around with
 
I'd skip hardener until you are ready to paint something for real, and make sure you have the appropriate full face respirator or fresh air supply when you do use hardener.

Rust-Oleum enamel thinned with naptha will be fine for practice. Air pressure depends on the gun. If I were you, I'd sell those antiques and get a $16 HVLP gun from Harbor Freight, and learn how to paint with that. It is easier to clean and will not be as much of a loss if you fail to clean it properly. I have painted with both a cheap HF gun, an old one like in your picture, and a very expensive HVLP gun. The Harbor Freight one will do 90% of the job of the expensive gun in an average users hands, with a bit more over spray. That old gun will have tons of over spray, and if the seal on the cup isn't perfect, you will be dripping paint everywhere. Ergonomics are also terrible.
 
I'd skip hardener until you are ready to paint something for real, and make sure you have the appropriate full face respirator or fresh air supply when you do use hardener.

Rust-Oleum enamel thinned with naptha will be fine for practice. Air pressure depends on the gun. If I were you, I'd sell those antiques and get a $16 HVLP gun from Harbor Freight, and learn how to paint with that. It is easier to clean and will not be as much of a loss if you fail to clean it properly. I have painted with both a cheap HF gun, an old one like in your picture, and a very expensive HVLP gun. The Harbor Freight one will do 90% of the job of the expensive gun in an average users hands, with a bit more over spray. That old gun will have tons of over spray, and if the seal on the cup isn't perfect, you will be dripping paint everywhere. Ergonomics are also terrible.
sounds like good advice. i was leaning toward the HF gun but thought if these ones will work, i'd try them. but i don't need any more PITA so i guess i'll skip the devilbiss. thanks.
 
HF gravity feed guns can be a PITA too. I bought one years ago and it didn't seem to paint right, pattern was not very adjustable I finally figured out that the fluid nozzle or air cap was not sealing. Once I got that figured out it seemed to work ok. I now use it strictly for primer. Reduction of your paint can vary widely with different brands of paint and I don't know that instructions on a can of cheap enamel paint like Rustoleum will be much help but, it's a starting point. Definitely skip the hardener for practicing, always wear a good respirator type mask. Overspray will settle on anything nearby, even when spraying outside, I learned that the hard way (Cub Cadet yellow overspray on a black truck). Synthol or alkyd enamel is the worst because the overspray stays "wet" long enough to adhere to anything it settles on.
 
Go ahead and play with the old guns
.what are you out besides time? You may find you prefer something different than other folks. Never have played with the newer low pressure guns but many do talk about less over spray with them. But also a learning curve with them sounds like too.
 
I own a restoration shop... I have used the very guns you have (along with Binks, Graco, and others). They are obsolete. Lots of overspray, higher volume of air needed to spray, and lots of wasted paint in the bottom of the cup that can never be reached.
I have used the HF guns to spray POR-15, High-Build Primers, Epoxy, Enamel, Urethane BC/CC, etc. . They work just fine. Some paints I don't even bother cleaning them-
Especially for POR-15, you will pay more for the gun cleaning solvents than the gun costs, and spend 1/2 hour of time you could be doing something productive.
You will need to PRACTICE... with whatever paint you intend to use. Vertical panels (runs).. so you can learn how not to put too much on, and get an even wet coat.
Drove this 30 miles today on it's first "shakedown cruise".
61Hawk.jpg
 
I agree Rayf. Spray guns have come a long way since that gun was made. It's probably not hvlp. I buy the purple gun from hf for $20 and toss it after a few uses. Never had a problem.
 
Back
Top