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Cyclops axle on 82 series
- Thread starter jmhill
- Start date
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mgonitzke
Well-known member
If you have a snowblade, you may need to use a subframe from a tractor that uses that axle.
What Matt said ...... or if you luck out and find the right parts from an early Cyclops tractor, the spindles are the "right" height to use all the normal IH wide frame attachments.
My 782 runs an 1864 power steering setup with spindles from an early 1541. My Wheatland project and 682 have both been swapped with similar parts as well, minus the power steering.
The low spindles are a bit hard to find. I'm not sure if it was an "early" version or if it was what was had if it was equipped with the 44C or 50C decks (as opposed to the taller high-vacuum decks.
My 782 runs an 1864 power steering setup with spindles from an early 1541. My Wheatland project and 682 have both been swapped with similar parts as well, minus the power steering.
The low spindles are a bit hard to find. I'm not sure if it was an "early" version or if it was what was had if it was equipped with the 44C or 50C decks (as opposed to the taller high-vacuum decks.
nbextermueller
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- Nic Bextermueller
There are 2 types of cyclops "super steer" front axles. One is found on the older XX62 models and is a direct bolt in to an 82 series.
The later XX64 cyclops series just different "J" style spindles that will raise the front end of your 82 series about 2". while it is a direct bolt in, you may need to put 26x12x12 on the back to level it back out.
That's why the later cyclops have a slightly different subframe setup and mower deck adjustments for the blades and such, cause they are 2" higher in the front. If you look closely, they are doing a bit a of a wheelie because they still used the 23x10.5 tires in the rear.
My 782 has a full "Super Steer" and power steering setup from an 1862. Besides retrofitting a solid power steering column (non tilt) back into the 782. It was a direct bolt in with no new holes. I even used the some of the 1862 hydro plumping lines.
Edit: Wyatt is right. They made the switch to the different front spindles when they changed to the high tunnel mower decks.
The later XX64 cyclops series just different "J" style spindles that will raise the front end of your 82 series about 2". while it is a direct bolt in, you may need to put 26x12x12 on the back to level it back out.
That's why the later cyclops have a slightly different subframe setup and mower deck adjustments for the blades and such, cause they are 2" higher in the front. If you look closely, they are doing a bit a of a wheelie because they still used the 23x10.5 tires in the rear.
My 782 has a full "Super Steer" and power steering setup from an 1862. Besides retrofitting a solid power steering column (non tilt) back into the 782. It was a direct bolt in with no new holes. I even used the some of the 1862 hydro plumping lines.
Edit: Wyatt is right. They made the switch to the different front spindles when they changed to the high tunnel mower decks.
Thanks guys! Actually a 54" deck is another upgrade I have in mind, so that might work out well to go with the later style spindles. I have a 54" blade on my 882. What kind of problems will I run into using that blade with a later cyclops axle?
nbextermueller
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- Nic Bextermueller
Brian,
Yes, the 1862 had tilt. I cheated. I basically cut the top half off of a standard steering column then used a home made union to attach the inner steering rod to the un-modified P/S column. Then I slid the outer tube over the whole thing and secured it with 2 screws. I also added an extra bracket in the dash to help support it. But the 1862 P/S column is completely stock.
OR.... you can just find one from a Super 72 Series. (1872, 2072) they are straight from the factory. (I have a 2072 too...) But the front axle of a 2072 doesn't fit a 782. 2 different animals.
John,
None. The blade has no problem working with the later style axle. It just won't be perfectly flat to the ground the further you tilt it left or right.
Yes, the 1862 had tilt. I cheated. I basically cut the top half off of a standard steering column then used a home made union to attach the inner steering rod to the un-modified P/S column. Then I slid the outer tube over the whole thing and secured it with 2 screws. I also added an extra bracket in the dash to help support it. But the 1862 P/S column is completely stock.
OR.... you can just find one from a Super 72 Series. (1872, 2072) they are straight from the factory. (I have a 2072 too...) But the front axle of a 2072 doesn't fit a 782. 2 different animals.
John,
None. The blade has no problem working with the later style axle. It just won't be perfectly flat to the ground the further you tilt it left or right.
Brian-
On my 782 power steering I used a Parker (Ross) box from a Toro Groundsmaster (same valve, just with o-ring face seals). I got it off eVilbay for $75 and just had to extend the shaft, and made a new tube with some stock tubing from McMaster.
The shafts can be really easy to extend - have someone turn the threads and splines off and take about 3" on the end down to 1/2" OD. You can then use the end of a standard steering shaft (that already has a 1/2" ID) cut to length and it will pilot right onto the turned-down steering shaft. Robust, little to no runout, and easy. It'll end up looking 100% bone stock for less $'s.
On my 782 power steering I used a Parker (Ross) box from a Toro Groundsmaster (same valve, just with o-ring face seals). I got it off eVilbay for $75 and just had to extend the shaft, and made a new tube with some stock tubing from McMaster.
The shafts can be really easy to extend - have someone turn the threads and splines off and take about 3" on the end down to 1/2" OD. You can then use the end of a standard steering shaft (that already has a 1/2" ID) cut to length and it will pilot right onto the turned-down steering shaft. Robust, little to no runout, and easy. It'll end up looking 100% bone stock for less $'s.
sblunier
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- Steve Blunier "Mr. Plow" (Central IL)
Some photos of my 782 PS install using a 1864 tall axle.
The PS hand pump was off of a tilt wheel model, so I extended the shaft using the center (splined) section of an old steering wheel, welded to the cut off shaft of a very beat up steering gear (cross pinned with a safety wired roll pin). I used the upper half of the old steering gear tube and an exhaust pipe expansion joint to join the 2 tubes. The hand pump and cylinder brackets were off of the 1864. I had to do some of the tubing myself, but was able to salvage some take off hydro lines from a parts tractor to get most of it to work.
The PS hand pump was off of a tilt wheel model, so I extended the shaft using the center (splined) section of an old steering wheel, welded to the cut off shaft of a very beat up steering gear (cross pinned with a safety wired roll pin). I used the upper half of the old steering gear tube and an exhaust pipe expansion joint to join the 2 tubes. The hand pump and cylinder brackets were off of the 1864. I had to do some of the tubing myself, but was able to salvage some take off hydro lines from a parts tractor to get most of it to work.
sblunier
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- Steve Blunier "Mr. Plow" (Central IL)
Plumbing diagram
Note:
The AUX port has a priority valve built into it, only allowing hyd oil to flow to the lift valve assembly when the steering wheel isn't turning.....this keeps you from loosing steering when lifting an implement (steering has "priority" over lift function. On a PS tractor, you can stop the lift by moving the wheel......catches you by surprise the first time out!!!
It will also steer faster to the right than to the left, since the volume of the cylinder is smaller (due to cylinder rod in oil space) when retracted (R) than when extended (L). Big tractors use a cylinder with a dummy rod out the back side of the cylinder to cancel out this effect.
Charge pressure should be bumped to ~850 psig deadheaded with PS as well (shims under implement lift relief valve spring)
Note:
The AUX port has a priority valve built into it, only allowing hyd oil to flow to the lift valve assembly when the steering wheel isn't turning.....this keeps you from loosing steering when lifting an implement (steering has "priority" over lift function. On a PS tractor, you can stop the lift by moving the wheel......catches you by surprise the first time out!!!
It will also steer faster to the right than to the left, since the volume of the cylinder is smaller (due to cylinder rod in oil space) when retracted (R) than when extended (L). Big tractors use a cylinder with a dummy rod out the back side of the cylinder to cancel out this effect.
Charge pressure should be bumped to ~850 psig deadheaded with PS as well (shims under implement lift relief valve spring)
Old thread but my subject. I've put a non power steering super steer under my 782. Straight bolt in. Except. Where the steering link attaches to the steering box. The hole on the steering box output is to small to except the tie rod end. That stuff is HARD. How did you drill it?
mpatterson
Well-known member
Interesting topic!
Brand new bits. But,I just got a Foredom so I may have it on the run if I get the right burr.Enlarge with carbide bit in die grinder if you can't drill it. (Or, sharpen up your drill bits)
mgonitzke
Well-known member
Got a torch? Heat just the hole periphery of the cam plate until it glows dull red and let it cool. That will take the heat treatment out of that particular area and allow you to easily drill it.
Foredom and a carbide burr made short work of it.
