Cub Cadet qa42a soon to be qa42b snowthrower

[lpalma]

Be easier to use a longer set screw and put a nut on that, just like on the PTO bearing.

 

[rfunk]

JB weld, when used in between mating parts to remove slop, will do surprisingly well. Because it is "confined" between the parts, the majority of the loading is compression. Used in an in-frame crankshaft repair on a VW diesel. Poor design reworked to updated design, JB weld used to take up micro slop. Lasted, AFAIK, 60,000 miles at least.

 

[jdrong]

Be easier to use a longer set screw and put a nut on that, just like on the PTO bearing.

I was going to suggest doing this too. I have lock nuts on the gear box yoke. There is various thickness of lock nuts too, I used the thinnest ones I had in my bin.

 

[craybartholow]

I was not hijacking the thread the reply was intended for you only because it was contained within my response to your problem

 

[craybartholow]

I'm new to the forum and still learning the the process for posting sorry

 

[btaner]

Question for anyone familiar with a 782 and or a qa42a: The teeth on the large gear have been broken in places. I've been the owner of this snowthrower for 4 seasons or so and this is the first I've taken it apart. At first I was thinking oh that's old wear from the PO. But perhaps it's also from my use. Ouch! Perhaps because the outer bearing on the one shaft was missing for who knows how log, that it also contributed to some unwanted movement?

One thing that worries me always with the combination of the 782 and qa42a is turning on the PTO . . . On the 782, there is no way to ease into the PTO. It's either full on or off, and that PTO switch seems to slam the snow thrower into motion even when the engine is at idle. The shearing spring pin on the shaft with the auger sprocket and chain has sheared quite a few times just by turning this thing on. That slamming into motion could definitely be contributing to some broken teeth! I'm curious if anyone has some insight into how to turn this on gingerly?

Im wondering if the tractor will start with pto engaged. or maybe loosen the belt engage pto, then retighten, just to reduce the shock of the thrower drive line.

 

[mgonitzke]

Im wondering if the tractor will start with pto engaged. or maybe loosen the belt engage pto, then retighten, just to reduce the shock of the thrower drive line.

It will not start with the PTO engaged.

You guys are overthinking this. Engage the PTO at idle and it will be fine.

 

[walls00000]

I took the asembly to my welder friend who has more tools and much more experience then I do. It turns out that the new pulley is 30 thousanths smaller than the old one. No way that was going on without further modification. My friend ended up sanding the shaft carefully with an angle grinder. I should have measured the fit before assembling the gearbox while I had it on the lathe.

 

[walls00000]

I took the asembly to my welder friend who has more tools and much more experience then I do. It turns out that the new pulley is 30 thousanths smaller than the old one. No way that was going on without further modification. My friend ended up sanding the shaft carefully with an angle grinder. I should have measured the fit before assembling the gearbox while I had it on the lathe.

He also fixed the bevel on the pulley where I had hit it trying to gently force it

 

[jdrong]

I took the asembly to my welder friend who has more tools and much more experience then I do. It turns out that the new pulley is 30 thousanths smaller than the old one. No way that was going on without further modification. My friend ended up sanding the shaft carefully with an angle grinder. I should have measured the fit before assembling the gearbox while I had it on the lathe.

I may be misunderstanding your post but, hand grinding the shaft and the pulley to make an under sized pulley fit seems to me not the best way to do this. Will the key still fit? How are either the shaft or the pulley hole still reasonably round?

 

[walls00000]

I may be misunderstanding your post but, hand grinding the shaft and the pulley to make an under sized pulley fit seems to me not the best way to do this. Will the key still fit? How are either the shaft or the pulley hole still reasonably round?

@jdrong You're absolutely right. The best way to do this would be to put the shaft on the lathe, but that would've been too much work at this stage. I was also thinking along the same lines as you. This was a last resort fix. My friend has more experience than I do with this sort of thing, and the work he did came out perfectly. He also took into consideration the key fit, but that didn't end up being a problem. 30 thou isn't much, so he worked patiently. The sanding disc was cushioned and notice his left hand was turning the crank shaft gently. This technique requires finesse and skill. I didn't even consider doing this for all the reasons we are all thinking of. A little patience, a little finesse, some skill and a lot of experience, and it came out perfect.

 

[jdrong]

@jdrong You're absolutely right. The best way to do this would be to put the shaft on the lathe, but that would've been too much work at this stage. I was also thinking along the same lines as you. This was a last resort fix. My friend has more experience than I do with this sort of thing, and the work he did came out perfectly. He also took into consideration the key fit, but that didn't end up being a problem. 30 thou isn't much, so he worked patiently. The sanding disc was cushioned and notice his left hand was turning the crank shaft gently. This technique requires finesse and skill. I didn't even consider doing this for all the reasons we are all thinking of. A little patience, a little finesse, some skill and a lot of experience, and it came out perfect.

Good luck, I hope it works.