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Cub cadet 102 snow plow help

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Holy cow this blew up!!



That manual came from Roland's website, I dunno why I didn't just look for it on here. Impulse just told me that I knew it was on his site. Didn't mean to "offend" anyone by posting that link and if I did then I'm sorry.

At the end of the day I was just trying to help this poor fella out. That IS the purpose of this site, isn't it?
Personally I think EVERYONE needs to take a deep breath and QUIT taking offense at simple inquiries about anything! If anyone is to thin skinned to think that simple questions offend or question anyone for doing or saying anything, It might be a good idea to get off the web for a while! This site has been up longer than any other GT website and has done quite well without today's I'M Offended or I'm feeling picked on. If ANYONE can't take constructive criticism or is easily offended by what people say. There are other sites that cater to those that feel that way! Just sayin! This and OCC are NOT the site for you.

Roland and I are real good friends and talk almost weekly, so I know where his head is as well as mine. (y)
 
No offense on the manual. I gave away many dozens (edit: actually hundreds now that I think about it...) of CDs to forum members with the scans of brochures and manuals that I scanned back in the early 2000s. They were gifts with a "Please do not sell copies of these." Copies of the CDs have turned up on ebay, reprints of the scans have turned up on ebay. I just find it interesting when they do. Roland has full authority to use them. Him having them hosted on his site is exactly how I like them to be used.
 
Holy cow this blew up!!



That manual came from Roland's website, I dunno why I didn't just look for it on here. Impulse just told me that I knew it was on his site. Didn't mean to "offend" anyone by posting that link and if I did then I'm sorry. Will say I was confused why the 4th page was smaller than the first three.

At the end of the day I was just trying to help this poor fella out. That IS the purpose of this site, isn't it?
Oh no it has not! You ain't seen a blow up and probably won't here. We kinda stopped all that kinda stuff years ago and booted trouble makers off the site as well as many others!

The Cub community is a tight knit group and site owners trade info all the time to weed out jerks and A-holes! :cubwinker:
 
I agree with Rich and some of the others take it apart to get to the original pieces and match up what is original to the manual. The sub frame that JP posted way up thread is a QA (Quick Attach) type for a later series but it should bolt up to your 102 just fine in the orientation as shown in the photo, a photo I took several years ago for just such an occasion, to illustrate how it's mounted. (JP, well done finding that photo. :))
 
Okay, just stay calm here. I am NOT offended by anything, I was just responding. Had nothing to do with me being offended, it only had anything to do with me not wanting to offend anyone else. I like to be nice, I like to help people, and I absolutely HATE being offensive to anyone. It's just not my thing.

That said, constructive criticism is different. I will fully accept constructive criticism and have been for awhile now. In fact, when I joined OCC 3 years ago in my first post I got plenty of it. Because I was new to hydrostatic transmissions and at the time did not realize that they are not something to just repair when they fail. At the end of it I was told to buy a replacement, and that's just what I did. Now my 107 is a running, driving machine, saved from the scrap yard. I may not have appreciated it then, but if I hadn't listened to it my 107 would probably still be in pieces.

At the end of it realistically I just got confused what you were trying to tell me about that manual. No offence was taken, no harm done. No matter how rough it gets I love these sites and enjoy my time on them. Really can't beat getting to talk about old Cub Cadets to other old Cub Cadet owners. Especially since I'm about the only Cub Collector in my area (at least that I know of, someone somewhere could be hiding a full barn of them and I'd never know).
 
If I go back to Sean's original post:
I recently purchased a cub cadet 102 and it came with a plow blade. I'm not sure if I have all the pieces or that it's the correct blade for my tractor. I attached some pictures of what I kind of mocked up. (Yes I know the bolts are all loose. It was just to mock up). I think I'm missing a bracket on the deck lever.
I'm sure something isnt right.
My questions are is this the right blade? How do I install it? What am I missing?
Any help is greatly appreciated.

did the previous owner imply this had been mounted to this tractor or did it simply come with the tractor?
I would say few parts of this plow may be applicable to your tractor under the guise of "original"
as far as how to install it, if it has been mounted to this tractor before then there are going to be four matching holes to those in the angle iron you have C-clamped to the mule drive. I would suspect they may be on the underside of the grill frame or you would have seen them already. It is most likely going to take experimentation to get it right. The solid triangular plate is a bit of a mystery from what I see of your parts. the triangular piece may be an alternate blade mount for the black fabricated portion. or to some other homemade accessory.
The lift bracket looks to have been modified to apply downward pressure as previously noted. The lift rod will most likely mount with a u-bolt to the manual lift arm - this makes it - lift arm forward makes the blade go down, and vice versa
I hope this helps -
 
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So I've realized that I forgot something in my previous post. If I ever give some constructive criticism to someone and it somehow "offends" them in some way, well, then so be it. Too bad, so sad. As much as I don't want to offend someone sometimes you really just need that to knock you into the reality of your situation. I go back to, that was exactly what happened with my 107's failed hydro 3 years ago. I just needed that kick to put me back into reality, and I'm glad that I listened. A person may not appreciate it right away, maybe even not for years, but at some point they will realize that they really did need it and will come to appreciate it.

Also, Kraig, I thank you for the recognition of using that picture to show how the plow subframe mounts, but you really deserve the credit. You have such an amazing archive of images, it's unbelievable. Whether it be informational photos like that one, old sales brochures, funny ones like that puller with too many weights, or super cool historical ones like that 500,000th Cub Cadet photo, you've got it all. And it's all super amazing. All of us here are super lucky to have access to such a huge wealth of pictures, and on behalf of all members here I would like to say Thank you.

Anyway, getting back onto the original topic, was this plow mounted to the tractor in the past? If it was then, even with all the modifications, there would still have to be a way for it to hook onto the tractor. I would think that with all these mods it's probably been used before on the machine. There's probably still a way to mount it to the tractor despite them. (also I find it interesting and cool to see the Voltage regulator location, don't think I've ever seen one mounted right to the starter-generator on a Cub Cadet before).
 
Sean, I've studied the pics a lot.The angle that you have c clamps on,do any of those bolt holes line up with anything? If not maybe it was never on that tractor.The spring devise (rather necessary or not) would push into that framework so it would have to be mounted firmly to something.Is there a tag on the blade that gives a model no.so those who know could tell what it started out as???
 
Sean - it sure is hard to tell from your pics if you could actually mount this blade to your 102. Your 102 was built in the 1965-67 era which was prior to the Quick Attach (QA) latch that came on the next era of tractors. This change makes it a little hard to understand all the various mounting methods. I thought a copy of the parts diagram for your era tractor might be helpful to you so you could see the original intended blade mounting method at the time your tractor was built.

So here's the Parts Diagram. Your era tractor was intended to use the sub-frame parts Items 14, 15 and 19 in the upper box marked 1963-1967. Item 14 is just a rod. Item 15 is the main sub-frame component, and Item 19 are the frame extenders that connect the sub-frame to the frame. The sub-frame you have is Item 22 in the main parts diagram. You can use this sub-frame (Item 22) but your pics look like the front may have been hacked off, or the mount ear pins cut off. I just can't tell. Also, Item 16 is the blade A-frame and yours may be hacked up so you can never really mount it to the front of your sub-frame. You're also missing some other parts. Your lift rod is not correct. You don't have the bracket that attaches to your lift arm handle that would allow you to connect the correct lift rod. All in all, unless you get a chance to actually see a correct and complete blade mounted to a tractor from your era, I'd suggest trying to find a whole correct blade assembly. Good Luck with your trials.
Good luck.
1611462903363.png
 
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Sean, item 17 in Harry's pic is lift bracket.Your pic xxx20 shows right side.The black angle may be covering 2 holes(1 showing of original lift bracket) I understand the fabs thinking with the spring mechanism.If it worked who knows.?If you can look at everything else and tune out the whole spring bracket you can better see how it would fit and make mounting brackets accordingly.Maybe eliminate spring or not( I've been plowing commercially for 40 plus yrs on all kinds of surfaces.I believe the spring is a choice between adding weight to the blade or trying the spring tension..A little crude but it might work..
 
Ok, now that I've got all the aftermarket home made stuff off It makes more sense. I am missing the lift bracket, lift rod, lift arm, and the rod to attach the sub frame to the mainframe. Does anyone out there have these parts available for sale? I am OK with used.
Is it a problem that the sub frame comes out square and the main frame is more triangular? Pictures attached.
My other concern is the holes in the main frame are .75" inch in diameter and the holes in the sub frame or point .80"
 

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Ok, now that I've got all the aftermarket home made stuff off It makes more sense. I am missing the lift bracket, lift rod, lift arm, and the rod to attach the sub frame to the mainframe. Does anyone out there have these parts available for sale? I am OK with used.
Is it a problem that the sub frame comes out square and the main frame is more triangular? Pictures attached.
My other concern is the holes in the main frame are .75" inch in diameter and the holes in the sub frame or point .80"
Click the Houtz sponsor box at the top of the page and Rob can fix you up.
 
The holes in the sub frame are worn is all, no biggie.
There is an 11" long piece of 3/4" diameter rod that gets welded through the holes into the big end of the triangular piece.
It has a hole through each end to accept a 3/16" cotter pin.
The C/L of this hole is about .25" from the end of the rod.
 

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I'm no expert on these plows yet (someday maybe) but I can see for certain that you've got the mule frame mounted wrong. It is supposed to bolt right to the tractor frame on the front, but you've got it bolted to the dropdown pieces that are for the mower deck mule drive. Remove those and bolt the mule frame directly to the tractor frame. Here's an old pic from elsewhere on the site, you can see that the mule frame (white) bolts directly to the tractor frame at the front.

299083-jpg.94506
Your picture is from a later model Cub with the QA setup
Different sub frame I believe
 
Ok, now that I've got all the aftermarket home made stuff off It makes more sense. I am missing the lift bracket, lift rod, lift arm, and the rod to attach the sub frame to the mainframe. Does anyone out there have these parts available for sale? I am OK with used.
Is it a problem that the sub frame comes out square and the main frame is more triangular? Pictures attached.
My other concern is the holes in the main frame are .75" inch in diameter and the holes in the sub frame or point .80"

Sean - in your pics you now have your sub-frame "correctly" attached to the tractor frame. You are not missing a rod to attach it to the tractor frame. Here is what you are missing, referencing the parts diagram pic I posted
Item 17, Lift Arm Part No. IH-473925-R1 (CC Specialties seems to be sold out).
Item 18, Lift Rod Part No. IH-473924-R1, 32" long ($28 new from CC Specialties).
Item 20, U-bolt Part No. IH-485419-R1 and Spacer Part No. 485420-R1 (you need 2 of these spacers) (CC Specialties seems to be sold out of these U-bolts. It's tough to make one of these since it's really more of a square rather than a U shape)(You can make the spacers out of some pipe).
Item 23, Lift Bracket Part No. IH- 489622-R1 ($70 new from CC Specialties - you might want to check with Charlie to see if it includes the U-bolt since he shows the U-bolt part number in the description, but I doubt it is). You also need a nut and bolt (5/16-18 x 2 3/4") to go with this bracket. I highly recommend this version of the bracket. If you happen to get the other version which was original to your tractor (Item 21 in the diagram Part No. IH- 485469-R1) you have to remove your foot rest and slide it over the frame rod which is a real pain.

Charlie mentioned getting these items used from Houtz. I just thought you'd like to know the part numbers and prices of new and exactly what you needed.

As David S mentions, you are missing a Rod that goes thru Item 16 in the parts diagram. Item 16 is the triangular shaped (A-frame shape) item that IH calls the Main Frame Assembly. Dave provided the dimensions as 11" x 3/4" diameter and mentions this rod is originally welded into the Main Frame Assembly. It is not available as a separate part but you should be able to find it at a good hardware store.
 
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Your picture is from a later model Cub with the QA setup
Different sub frame I believe
yes I am aware it is a later style subframe, even so it still shows the basic principle of how the subframe attaches to the tractor. Only real difference is the quick attach mount. The photo is Kraig's and he has already explained that.
 
Sean - in your pics you now have your sub-frame "correctly" attached to the tractor frame. You are not missing a rod to attach it to the tractor frame. Here is what you are missing, referencing the parts diagram pic I posted
Item 17, Lift Arm Part No. IH-473925-R1 (CC Specialties seems to be sold out).
Item 18, Lift Rod Part No. IH-473924-R1, 32" long ($28 new from CC Specialties).
Item 20, U-bolt Part No. IH-485419-R1 and Spacer Part No. 485420-R1 (you need 2 of these spacers) (CC Specialties seems to be sold out of these U-bolts. It's tough to make one of these since it's really more of a square rather than a U shape)(You can make the spacers out of some pipe).
Item 23, Lift Bracket Part No. IH- 489622-R1 ($70 new from CC Specialties - you might want to check with Charlie to see if it includes the U-bolt since he shows the U-bolt part number in the description, but I doubt it is). You also need a nut and bolt (5/16-18 x 2 3/4") to go with this bracket. I highly recommend this version of the bracket. If you happen to get the other version which was original to your tractor (Item 21 in the diagram Part No. IH- 485469-R1) you have to remove your foot rest and slide it over the frame rod which is a real pain.

Charlie mentioned getting these items used from Houtz. I just thought you'd like to know the part numbers and prices of new and exactly what you needed.

As David S mentions, you are missing a Rod that goes thru Item 16 in the parts diagram. Item 16 is the triangular shaped (A-frame shape) item that IH calls the Main Frame Assembly. Dave provided the dimensions as 11" x 3/4" diameter and mentions this rod is originally welded into the Main Frame Assembly. It is not available as a separate part but you should be able to find it at a good hardware store.


That sounds good. I can buy the rod 3/4" rod locally. I think Dave is looking for all the other pieces I need. I do really appreciatte all the help you guys a giving me.
 
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